Whistle operation question on a 2426W tender

[mikemc52]

I recently inherited a beautiful train set from my father in-law that includes a Lionel 726 loco and 2426W tender.  The whistle on the tender did not work at all originally.  I took the tender apart and found that the impeller / armature did not rotate freely.  I have cleaned and lubricated the armature, replaced the brushes and springs, cleaned the rollers and wheels.  The whistle now operates very well while stationary on the track.  I use a postwar ZW controller on my layout with Gargraves track.  Shouldn't the whistle blow while the train is in operation?  (Actually it does sometimes, but very inconsistant).  I have also taken the 726 apart and lubed, cleaned and replaced brushes on it as well.  The engine runs excellent.  I just can't figure out why the tender whistle doesn't operate when running the train?  What am I missing?  I doesn't seem to be voltage related as the whistle will sometimes (not often) operate with the train running slow.

Also can anyone tell me what the motor recepticles are for on the 726 engine brush plate assembly?  I don't have the instructions for this great old engine and tender!

 I am also always amazed at all the great info and collective knowledge on this forum when reading the posts.  I have subscribed to CTT for years but only recently joined the forum.

 Thanks, Mike 

[wm #734]

 Your symptoms usually mean dirty track. But in your case it must be the rollers on the trucks. In my opinion you should clean, or if possible replace the pick-up rollers. Or an alternative is to replace the trucks completely with MPC or Modern trucks if possible.

[servoguy]

One of the things that can cause erratic whistle operation is that the copper oxide rectifier in the transformer has died or nearly died. The whistle relay needs some DC superimposed on the normal AC that is used to power the motor. Take the shell off of the tender and watch the relay to see if it is operating. You can replace the copper oxide rectifier with a silicon diode and the whistle control will work better. You can clean the track and pickup rollers. Use a ScotchBrite pad to clean the track. I don't think replacing the rollers will accomplish anything. I have never replaced one in 60 years of playing with Lionel trains. Also, the whistle control on the transformer has two positions: the first position adds DC to the AC, and the second position shorts the copper oxide rectifier with a low ohm resistor to provide more power to the track since you have two motors running, the engine and the whistle. When you lubed the motor, did you lube the bearing that is behind the armature? Bruce Baker

[cwburfle]

Don't stop with cleaning the pickup rollers. While slightly dirty wheels usually are not a problem, occassionally the wheels need to be cleaned in order for the whistle tender to work properly.

[mikemc52]

Thanks everyone for the helpful suggestions.  I thought I had done a good job cleaning the wheels and pickup rollers on the tender but I did it again.  I put the wax / grease remover and rubbing alcohol away and got out the lacquer thinner.  I know thats dangerous to paint etc but I was careful to just get it on the wheels and pickup rollers with a Q-tip.  A lot more goop came off.  The rollers are pretty worn so I also took some very fine sandpaper and cleaned them, in fact almost polished them.  I did also take the shell off and checked the relay.  It was working fine but I did clean the relay contacts with some electronics cleaner and very fine sandpaper.  I had already lubed both sides of the armature.  Bottomline is the whistle seems to now be working!

Thanks again for the suggestions,

Mike 

[mikemc52]

Bruce,

Thanks for your helpful tips.  You got me thinking about the whistle control on the old post war ZW transformer.  I now believe that the rectifier disc is indeed part of the problem.  I experimented with a few of my other newer engines and the whistle control is definately spotty at best.  I believe the original copper oxide rectifier discs are still available and it looks like a fairly easy job to replace them.  You mentioned a silicon diode that would work better.  Is this a direct replacement for the original disc.  I have heard about them before but have never investigated.  Do you have any info on where you get them, part number, how they install, etc.  As long as I'm going to get into the transformer I may as well go with the best option.

Thanks again for your expertise on this,

Mike