Electrical Contact Between Tracks

[richhotrain]

I don't know if the proper term is continuity or connectivity or conductivity, but here is my problem.

I have set up an 8'x8' oval to test my newly rehabilitated American Flyer steam engine.

As the engine runs around the layout, some of the tracks begin to separate a little because I have not yet nailed or glued down the track.  The engine comes to a halt as if I have pressed the reset button on the transformer.  If I then press the reset button on the transformer, the train goes in reverse.  So, the reversing unit is going through its cyle correctly, but it is annoying to have the engine stop like that.

When I was a kid, my dad bought some track clips that look a little like modern day binder clips to hold the tracks together more firmly.  I still have some of those, but my track is now mounted in the rubber roadbed, so the track clips cannot be applied.

I have purchased a bunch of new steel pins that I have yet to replace the old bent steel pins with, so that may tend to alleviate the problem.

Lastly, the track is not entirely sitting on a smooth surface since I have placed a number of scrap pieces of plywood on my basement floor and laid the track on top of it.

I have an extensive HO layout and I have suffered through all of these same types of problems with my track until I finally got it right by nailing, glueing, soldering and ballasting.  However, I want to keep my American Flyer layout more "portable" because I only intend to set it up at Christmas time. 

Any suggestions for solving this problem while keeping the layout portable?  What do others do in this situation?

Thanks.

Rich

 

[Roger Bielen]

Try using small elastic bands, the type used for dental braces, across the joints.

[Timboy]

 

[Timboy]

 

[richhotrain]

As always, I appreciate all of the help and advice provided on this forum.

Since my track is embedded in rubber roadbed, I started to attack my problem by removing the plywood scraps and laying the track directly on the basement floor.  This helped to alleviate my problem since the surface of the concrete floor was smoother than the plywood scraps which had warped somewhat.  I also cleaned or replaced a number of the steel track pins to provide better contact. 

But, the biggest contributors to successfully solving this electrical contact problem was a further cleaning of the track and the wheels on the tender.

When I first pulled my American Flyer stuff out of storage, I had cleaned the track rails with a Bright Boy eraser and, in some cases, with a light sanding with sand paper to remove surface rust.  However, upon closer examination of the rails, there was still surface dirt and grime, probably from the plastic freight car wheels that I am in the process of replacing.

Also, when I looked at the wheels on the tender, I was somewhat shocked to see how dirty the pick up wheels were - - a complete oversight on my part.  Previously, I had gotten my old American Flyer diesel up and running and I had cleaned the wheels on the diesel.  But, the restoration of my old American Flyer steam engine has taken longer while I waited for repair parts to arrive in the mail.  So, I had not thought about cleaning the tender wheels until I actually had repaired the steam engine motor and got it running on the track. 

Once I did all of this, cleaned and replace the steel track pins, cleaned the track rails, and cleaned the pick up wheels, performance was much improved.  Apparently, the poor contact between the pick up wheels and the rails was causing the erratic performance of the reversing unit.

Incidentally, cleaning the pick up wheels was no small task.  I finally resorted to the use of light grade sand paper to get of the layer of gunk.  I then finished it off by cleaning the wheels with denatured alcohol on an old rag.  I also used the denatured alochol on a rag to clean the rails, a method I also employ with great success on my HO layout.

One last comment.  One of you had previously referred me to S Helper Service as a source for metal wheelsets to replace the old plastic wheels on my freight cars.  It turns out that they also produce a rail joiner specifically designed to hold the old American Flyer sectional trak pieces firmly together.  As they describe it, one end fits into tubular AF track, the other end forms a shoe that goes around and under the base of the track. It is designed to be used with AF track on rubber roadbed.  I am going to give it a try.

Rich

 

[Timboy]

 

[Anonymous]

Rich,

         What I do to keep sections from separating is bend the pins outward slightly.  It seems to not only provide a better mechanical connection, but also a better electrical connection as well.  I read about it in a Gilbert instruction book, and it really makes a difference.

[richhotrain]

green97probe

Rich,

         What I do to keep sections from separating is bend the pins outward slightly.  It seems to not only provide a better mechanical connection, but also a better electrical connection as well.  I read about it in a Gilbert instruction book, and it really makes a difference.

Jim,

 

That is an interesting idea, and I will try that.

Adding credibility to this idea is the fact that it is a suggestion in the AC Gilbert instruction book.

Thanks for the tip.

Rich

[Texas Pete]

 I had Flyer when I was a kid and bending the track pins as suggested does work to some extent but I had to use the track clips also to keep the sections together.  Nowadays I have a couple test ovals of 3-rail, one tube track, one fastrack, set up on an old formica topped dining table.  3M/Scotch double-stick tape between the tube/fastrack section joints and the tabletop really does keep the track from moving and it's not permanent.  It even works for the bump and go trolley!  I have it in four spots on each loop, and both ends of the trolley line.

 Here is a link to a product that I've been using for years on my musician pro sound system connectors:

http://store.caig.com/s.nl/it.A/id.1602/.f?sc=2&category=188

 It works great on track pins too!  It ain't cheap but it puts the ratshack type contact cleaner to shame.

Pete

 

 

[Timboy]

 

[richhotrain]

Texas Pete

 I had Flyer when I was a kid and bending the track pins as suggested does work to some extent but I had to use the track clips also to keep the sections together.  Nowadays I have a couple test ovals of 3-rail, one tube track, one fastrack, set up on an old formica topped dining table.  3M/Scotch double-stick tape between the tube/fastrack section joints and the tabletop really does keep the track from moving and it's not permanent.  It even works for the bump and go trolley!  I have it in four spots on each loop, and both ends of the trolley line.

 Here is a link to a product that I've been using for years on my musician pro sound system connectors:

http://store.caig.com/s.nl/it.A/id.1602/.f?sc=2&category=188

 It works great on track pins too!  It ain't cheap but it puts the ratshack type contact cleaner to shame.

Pete

 

 

Pete,

I am going to add that double face tape suggestion to my list of things to try.  Thanks.

Rich

[Texas Pete]

Timboy

 Yep.  Just like I said on 04/02/2010 at 7:07 AM:

 

How many seconds?  In the immortal words of John Madden, "It's what you learn after you know it all that counts."  

Pete

 

[Timboy]

 

[servoguy]

I started bending the rails on my 3 rail tubular track so that the pins are angled slightly to the side. I bend the center rail to the right, and the left rail to the left. I wish I had thought of this approach 50 years ago as I had been fighting poor connections until I started bending the rails. I don't bend the pins, but grab the rail where the pin is installed and bend the rail. The pin remains straight. It sounds like Gilbert beat me by many years. Since the AF pins are flat rather than round, you can bend the pins in AF track. This approach puts pressure on the pins no only in the female end of the track section, but also in the track section where the pins are installed. BTW, you can remove the pins easily from AF track if you turn the track upside down and use a small screwdriver to spread the rails. I tried it, and it works. The pins then just slip out. You can reinstall the pins by putting them in place and then using needle nose pliers, bend the rail back together. Bruce Baker

[Timboy]

 

[richhotrain]

servoguy

I started bending the rails on my 3 rail tubular track so that the pins are angled slightly to the side. I bend the center rail to the right, and the left rail to the left. I wish I had thought of this approach 50 years ago as I had been fighting poor connections until I started bending the rails. I don't bend the pins, but grab the rail where the pin is installed and bend the rail. The pin remains straight. It sounds like Gilbert beat me by many years. Since the AF pins are flat rather than round, you can bend the pins in AF track. This approach puts pressure on the pins no only in the female end of the track section, but also in the track section where the pins are installed. BTW, you can remove the pins easily from AF track if you turn the track upside down and use a small screwdriver to spread the rails. I tried it, and it works. The pins then just slip out. You can reinstall the pins by putting them in place and then using needle nose pliers, bend the rail back together. Bruce Baker

Bruce,

What I never noticed as a kid, but I did notice as an adult back in January when I started on this rehab odyssey, was that the track pins are secured in place by two indentations in the side of the rail.  When I couldn't pull them out with pliers, I used the method you describe, that is, turning over the track and prying open the rail.  Then, after replacing the old damaged pins with new ones, I used a pair of snip nose pliers to crimp the rail back together again.  It works like a charm.

Rich

[Timboy]