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GARGRAVES 072 SWITCH causing e-unit cycling

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  • Member since
    December 2009
  • 3 posts
GARGRAVES 072 SWITCH causing e-unit cycling
Posted by Jakes trains on Friday, March 19, 2010 9:06 AM

New to the hobby and forum and just at  the tail end of our (son and I) first layout. Problem: When running some (Berk 736 and a few others, all postwar steamers) through my new GARGRAVES 072 switches, the e-unit cycles the engine into neutral whereas this does not occur on my old 022 Lionel switches. I realize that the pick-up roller spread is causing am looking for a fix or modification to the switch to remedy this. We are also running a few GARGRAVES 100 switches for sidings that don't seem to be a problem with these same engines. Any suggestions beyond replacing these brand new switches are greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Mike and Jake 

  • Member since
    July 2009
  • 951 posts
Posted by servoguy on Friday, March 19, 2010 4:35 PM

You are going to have to modify the switch to shorten the gaps in the 3rd rail. I don't know the switch, so I can't give you specific instructions.  I am using an ancient American Flyer 45 deg crossing in my layout and had the same problem.  I modified the diamond to allow me to put pins into the ends of the 3rd rails near the diamond and shorten the gaps.  Problem solved.  My 1615 switcher goes across it now without a glitch.

Bruce Baker

  • Member since
    January 2005
  • From: Lake Worth FL
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Posted by phillyreading on Tuesday, March 23, 2010 10:45 AM

The GarGraves 072 switch doesn't distibute power to the output sides of the switch, at least that is what I have found to be the case with older GarGraves switches. The simple cure is to power up the output sides with a power clip to the center rail on the first section of track after the switch or at the switch output rail if using an insulated block. Also check the outside rails to see if one is or isn't supplying the common rail power. Most of the time it is a simple problem of electricity not getting through the switch.

When working with GarGraves the most important thing is to check your electrical circuit. The major difference in GarGraves track that I first noticed is that all rails are seperated electrically, unlike Lionel track that has both outside rails joined together except on insulated tracks.

Lee F.

Interested in southest Pennsylvania railroads; Reading & Northern, Reading Company, Reading Lines, Philadelphia & Reading.
  • Member since
    December 2009
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Posted by Jakes trains on Tuesday, March 23, 2010 11:25 AM

Thanks for the suggestions. I will try shortening up the gap as Bruce suggested as I had followed the gargraves installation recommendations and had already ties the two outside rails (common) to each other and supplies power to the center rail at both ends of the switch. The e-unit cycles only at slow speeds and only on a few (unfortunately one being my 736) steamers. I'll let you know if the gap closing works. 

Thanks, Mike and Jake 

  • Member since
    January 2005
  • From: Lake Worth FL
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Posted by phillyreading on Wednesday, March 24, 2010 1:30 PM

I just checked the center rail gap on the GarGraves 042 switch compared to a Lionel # 23011 switch and the gap is larger by almost a quarter inch. Bruce is probally right when he says to add a piece of metal to the center gap.

Also check the center rail rollers on your engines as one may not be holding tension to the track properly. I have seen that problem with K-Line' Streamliner passenger cars, when you turn the car over the center rail pick-up falls flat against the car's frame, it was causing flickering lights.

Lee F.

Interested in southest Pennsylvania railroads; Reading & Northern, Reading Company, Reading Lines, Philadelphia & Reading.
  • Member since
    December 2009
  • 3 posts
Posted by Jakes trains on Tuesday, March 30, 2010 10:37 AM

Sorry for the late reply but business took me out of town. Finally got to closing up the gap by carefully bending the intermediate center rail carriers a bit closer to center and so far it seems to be working. I have had a few postwar cars (coil type) uncouple while going over the switch while the whistle was activated but not really a major concern. Thanks again to the suggestion and this great resource.

Mike and Jake 

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