Lionel #67 Whistle Controller!!!

[lionel2]

Anyone know how one of these works?  I do not have one of these, but think it would be helpful to operate my standard gauge trains.  I have a few locomotives with whistles.  I have some 167 whistle/direction controllers.  Does the 67 do the same thing as the 167??  Because when I push the whistle button on my 167 it uses up alot of juice from my Z transformer that is 250 watts.  I cannot run the loco and sound the whistle at the same time.  Why is this??  Maybe I need a 67 controller to solve that problem.  Let me know what you think.  Thanks.

[lionel2]

Or would I need a #66 whistle controller??  I read that the #67 is for O Gauge trains and the #66 is for standard gauge trains.  Let me know if this is correct.  thanks.

[lionel2]

Does the 66 whistle controller do the samething as the 167 or 167C whistle/direction controller?  I have seen people with standard trains using a 66 whistle controller on their layout.  Is it that useful?  Or should I stick to my 167 and 167C controllers?  Thanks.

[Dub]

 

 

I can show the insides of a  66. A disc for a rectifier. A coil and two wire resistors.The lower left is where the three red buttons are. The center cuts the power to work the e unit. The left is for the whistle while the train is moving. The the right red button and the left button activate the whistle while the train is stopped.

It dates to 1936 to 38. It is old. Not being expensive it may be worth a try.  

 

 

[lionel2]

So, the 66 is designed for use with standard gauge trains?  I have some locomotives with Electronic E-Units and I was wondering is the 167 whistle/direction controller do the same thing as the 66?  Should I try to look for a 66 at the York show or just look for more 167's??  Thanks.

[Dub]

The Olsen diagram, groups the 66 67 and 166 together. By getting a 167 controller you get a better design. The principle is the same . It will give a .6 to 1.5 DC volt charge to activate the remote whistle.

My reference does verify the 66 as part of the standard gage sets and the 67 for O. I don't know enough about the differences betwen the gages. All I can say is that if the 66 doesn't work the rectifier is bad.

A modern sound button with diodes would be safer for you electronic boards.

Olsen's

[lionel2]

Humm...Maybe I would be better off looking for more 167 whistle/direction controllers.  The 167's seem like they are easier to find and as you said have a better design.  The 66 looks as if too many things can go wrong with them.  I will look for 167's at the next train show in April then.  Thanks.

[lionel2]

With the 167's I am unable to sound the whistle while the train is moving.  Why is this?  I have to put the loco in neutral to sound the whistle.  This is getting to be a hassle doing this.  Now, the lionel 66 whistle controller says it can sound the whistle while the train is moving. Is this true?  Even with old standard gauge trains, like a 385E or 392E.  Just having 2nd thoughts about looking for a lionel #66 whistle controller for my standard gauge trains.  let me know what you think I should do.  Just use the 167's or get a 66 for my old standard trains??  Thanks.

[lionel2]

Anyone??  Is the 66 the same as the 167's or are they different?  Read my previous thread.  Thanks.

[MR Trainfixit]

Regarding your slowing of the train when activating a 167 whistle control: According to my Greenburg's Lionel Repair and Operating Manual 4th Eddition, if your layout and locomotive are large and pull a heavy current load, you could be drawing more than the approximately 6 amp limit across the controller's choke coil circuit. Your 167 could then be allowing this high current to flow thru the rectifier circuit (DC voltage) leaving less AC voltage flowing to the track circuit to run motors, causing the slowdown your seeing. The choke coil in the 167 will eventually burn-out because of this overload, if it hasn't already. A #167C has a circuit breaker built in that will prevent this. Your Z should have plenty of push unless your layout is extremely large. A few more obscure possibilities: Your line voltage is at something higher than 60 cycle frequency. Not likely in the US, but a possibility; Your controller is actually a 167S made for locos with lamp type smoke units, and you don't have any of these current hogs in your equipment. I do not have schematics or working knowledge of the #66 and #67 controllers other than I own one of each and they are outwardly identical to each other. They both have the ability to blow the whistle with the loco parked, which none of the 167 family can do. Being prewar designs, they might be an option if your running prewar equipment. Aside from maybe a 167S, I see all of these controllers available for $6 to 20 at train shows, however they are difficult to test completely in the train show environment. Hope this helps, and good luck in your search.