Bruce,
Send that tip into CTT Tips and get a few bucks!
Jim
There is something else you might try. Zinc has a modulus of elasticity of zero. It will cold flow. If you mount the frame in some way so that a weight could be fastened to the steps, the steps will slowly deform in the direction that the weight is pulling. I don't know how much weight or how long this will take, but at least it shouldn't break your frame.
Bruce Baker
Well gosh darnit Bruce you were exactly right...it worked! The step bent back to a degree I can live with considering the quality of the casting (not great). Thanks!
Oh, the bonus: this 332 came fitted with the 1" motor unannounced in the auction description. So I better not test my karma by messing with the free extra casting thrown in. I won't tell you what I paid, but maybe there is toy train justice sometimes! :)
Suffice to say that seller got great feedback, and he was quite nice, too.
After reading all these responses and having no experience in doing this (and not wanting my first try on a pricey casting) I've decided to leave it as is.
But you also gave me the idea to "build" the forward edge of that step out just a bit to give the illusion it's straight. I have to file off parting lines and prep the thing for painting anyway. As well as drill the mounting holes all the way through! Maybe someday I'll run across an original frame, so it can wait.
Last question: so what do I build that edge out with, some kind of metal epoxy putty? Any particular product? I'm priming and painting it in the usual way I've done locomotive shells.
This forum has given me some good answers and advice; thanks all!
I wouldn't trust a flame to get into that fairly narrow safe temperature range. I've never done it; but I imagine that immersing the casting in a liquid at the right temperature would be the safest way. Boiling water is marginal. Perhaps some kind of cooking oil heated and checked with a thermometer to 150 C would work. Dunk the piece and let it get up to temperature, then pull it out and quickly bend it as it cools but before it can reach 100 C.
Bob Nelson
Mr. S,
Personally, I'd leave it as is. The 332 tender frame is about $100 by itself from most dealers. I wouldn't take the chance of breaking the step off. If I was in your situation, I'd put that $100 towards a 3/4" or 1" motor to replace the stock 1/2"motor. The 3/4" motor made an enormous difference in the performance of my 332AC
Zinc, which is most likely what your casting is, is brittle, except between about 100 C and 150 C. If you can be sure of the temperature, you might be able to straighten it.
I got an extra repro (I think) raw casting for a Flyer 332 tender frame in an auction as the original was busted. The casting itself is pretty rough, and one of the forward steps a bit crooked, maybe even cast that way.
Is there any sense in trying to heat that corner up a bit to see if I can nudge it 1/16th or so to get it back to straight? I'm sure it needs a gentle touch but I don't have any experience with how brittle these casting are. I was happy to have the extra thrown in the auction, these things are kind of pricey aren't they?
Advice or opinions?
Thanks!
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