Hello, I needed some help repairing a 392E w/392W. The loco needs the E-Unit to be fixed and I would like to know how do you take apart a 392E? The Tender does not need any work done to it at all, just the loco. This 392E has a chugger Unit inside and has a drum type E-Unit. It looks as if the E-Unit is stuck or needs cleaned. I would like to take it apart and clean up the E-Unit. But, I am not quite sure where to begin. I am only familiar with postar lionel trains and have done a few things with prewar lionel standard gauge. I hope someone can help me out. Thanks.
This one here Lionelsoni!!! see if you might know the answers. Thanks.
Sorry, I don't know how to take it apart.
Bob Nelson
What would you suggest I do?? Should I take to a hobby shop and pay an arm and a leg or email lionel?? Lionel made the 392E I would assume they know how to take it apart and know how to fix it. I will email lionel and ask them. I have all the parts to do the repair, but I am not sure where to begin taking it apart. Its an expensive loco and i hate to ruin it by not knowing what i am doing. I know my hobby shop knows how to fix it, but they are expensive on repairs. They said it might need a complete overhaul. I don't know if i wanna pay for all that, if i have no choice i will have to. Thanks.
lionel2,
Does your 392E have a E unit like those used on post war engines? With a rotating drum? If it does, and it is not working well, the first thing I would do is spray it with WD-40 and see if that frees it up. I have done this to a few E units and always had good results. If someone has oiled it in the past, and the oil has gotten gummy, this will probably wash out the gummy oil and fee up the unit. Also, WD-40 is a very good contact cleaner, IMHO much better than stuff that is sold as contact cleaner. I have nearly 40 years experience using WD-40 and CRC-336 as contact cleaners. WD-40 will disolve corrosion on contacta which other contact cleaners won't do. Over the years I have tried other things for cleaning contacts and nothing works like WD-40.
I recommend that you do not disassemble the E unit unless it is absolutely necessary. If the drum is damaged, or the contact fingers are worn out, you may need to rebuild the unit. However, E units are easily damaged, so disassembly may result in more problems. I have never had a problem with an E unit that WD-40 wouldn't fix.
Bruce Baker
Yes it does, the drum type that is correct. I cannot see the E-Unit or have a way to get to it. I have to take apart the locomotive, and that is what I do not know how to do. How would you suggest I take apart the 392E to get to the E-Unit?? It is not visible from the outside. I have to take apart the engine. Any idea how to do this?? I will use WD-40 soon as I can get to that E-Unit. Thanks.
It cannot be that difficult to take apart. Its just that the parts are so delicate and I hate to break anything that is expensive. The loco has new wiring, so I know I do not have to worry about wires breaking off or anything like that. All the wheels are in good shape, the trailing and front truck is originals. The drivers were replaced with Model Engineering wheels. Other than that its all original. I am wondering why it went down the track for a little bit, then stopped, and now it just hums. At least I know its not a motor issue, because it did run down the track. E-Unit must be hung up or in neutral and stuck. There is no lever on the boiler, so I have to open it all up to get to that E-Unit. Let me know what you think, thanks.
Well I'm not in anyway a Std. Gauge expert, but in general with any model / toy train steam engine, the two main parts are the chassis with the wheels and motors, and the body. As often as not, there are some screws on the bottom of the chassis which go up into the body to hold it in place. You might need to move the front or rear trucks to see the screws. Generally it's just a matter of turning the engine upside-down (preferably in some sort of cradle to prevent damaging the paint or the parts on the body) and looking around for screws that don't appear to be holding the trucks or the motor or anything else on and seeing what happens when you remove them.
Just take your time and work it thru. These old Lionel engines were built like a (slightly) smaller version of a tank, they're pretty rugged and aren't really that hard to work on.
Ok, thank you very much for the help. I use an old pillow as my cradle to hold my engines in place while I work on them. Seems to work well. I give it a try. Thanks again.
How do you change out the light bulb behind the boiler front on a 392E?? There is a latch above on top, which way do you move it to get it to unlatch?? I have a burned out light bulb and would like to replace it with a fresh bulb. Thanks.
Anyone??
I guess I will have to try it on my own and see what I can do. Thanks.
Look here Ivesboy!!! My problem is posted here in this this thread. Thanks.
I fixed the problem!!! Thanks for all the help everyone. End of thread.
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