Benchwork Help

[Demay]

Jeff,

I sent you a message, but you might not have seen it.  Please send me your email address and I'll provide you photos and schematics.  Also, I have moved twice since building this layout and subsequently built two other layouts.

Joe

[Bullhead27]

Joe,

I'm also in the military and looking to build a 5x9 O-guage layout that can be moved when we move.  How did your project turn out?  Any benchwork plans that would be helpful in this endeavor?

thanks Jeff

[Demay]

Thanks all for the great suggestions, photos, and plans.  I hope to start construction this weekend.  I will post photos during the process.

Joe

[Ingeniero1]

Here is another approach. I used 1”x4”s throughout, screwed together, and the legs also were 1”x4” in “L” configuration. Note that the legs ran all the way to the top so the plywood and the ‘QuietBrace’ rested on the legs. The QuietBrace (Temple-Inland) from Home Depot, was a cheaper ($8 for 4’x8’ sheet) alternative to Homasote, which I could not find in my immediate area, and it worked great.

 

Layout plan, bench frame, and construction. The yard part of the “L” is not shown but was completed later.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Good luck!

 

Alex

[ChiefEagles]

Most people over build.  Since I was building on the second floor of the house, I wanted to remember weight..  I did use 2X4's for the legs [had a supply of 2X4's from anohter project.] and 1X6's for outside edges.  I used 1X6's as cross members.  Used chalk line to insure not missing them when driving screws.  I used plywood as bottom layer.  I used Soundstop [cheaper here than homasote and would have had to do a special purchase of thick foam insulation in NC].  Glued it to the plywood to keep from transfering the noise of screws gong into lower level.  Sealed it with paint.  I have stood on mine lots of time.  No problem.  I do recommend you do this to the legs.  Works great for leveling.

 

 Buckeye's construction is great and light weight.  As stated, would have used thick foam but was not readily available here.

 

Hope this helps.

[laz 57]

DEMAY,

  If you want to keep it simple, just do what I did.  I used 2x 4s and built sections of 4x 8 feet, just like you would of constucting interior walls for a house, with 16 on center for studs.  I then used homesote for the top and had the sections laying on top of cabinets that our school were throwing out.  The sections that didn't have a cabinet under I used a 4x4 screwed to the corners and then crossed braced if needed.  My total height was 34 inches from top o layout to floor, you might want more or less?  Pretty easy and can support me if I need to get on top of layout.  Hope this helps?

laz57

[Buckeye Riveter]

I'm very happy you found them useful.   If you are ever in the neighborhood, (Central Ohio) stop and see the real thing. 

[traindaddy1]

Buckeye Riveter:  I got to "fess up"!   In the not-to-distant past, while I was researching benchwork plans, I came upon your photos and used them as reference material.  Many thanks.

[Ole Timer]

joe .... here's an ebay link for that dvd ... you may get it low priced there ... http://cgi.ebay.com/BUILDING-AN-O-GAUGE-LAYOUT-GREAT-DVD-A-MUST-HAVE_W0QQitemZ260552179763QQcmdZViewItemQQptZModel_RR_Trains?hash=item3caa1ec033

[Demay]

Thanks all for the very informative replies.  Based off what I am hearing, I should definitely invest in a DVD or How To book to better guide me along. 

I was hoping to keep the benchwork fairly simple and start work this weekend, especially since Monday is a holiday.  However, I am going to spend some time today at the library and Lowe's conducting research. 

Dennis, I already use Fastrack and plan to stick with it.  It is easy to maintain and it is easy to take apart and put back together.  Also, thanks and your welcome; I am very happy to serve our great nation.

Joe

[dwiemer]

Demay, given your circumstances, I'd look into a type of layout called "Modular".  That way, you can easily pack it and ship to the next assignment.  Also, with the dimensions you mention, how about 3 5'x3' modules.  You can take 1x4s with the 1x2s glued and screwed as shown in the photos above.  Make 3 rectangle frames 5x3 and braced also as seen above.  Using the 2" extruded foam will allow you to scenic each module with streams, build up for mountains, etc.  I would probably go with permanent scenery features, but keep the profile relatively low.  Then, the buildings and structures, I'd wire them for lights, but allow the structures to be removed and boxed for the move.  Lastly, I would go with a track system like Fastrack.  It is higher priced, but for your pike, should be manageable.  It will also allow for multiple take downs and re-assembly without damage.  One last feature is that it will stay in place without having to be glued or screwed down.

Dennis

PS: Thanks for your service!

[Brutus]

Demay - there is a dvd out called Building an O Gauge Layout too that could be helpful.

 http://www.tmbv.com/prodinfo.asp?number=HOW2

I think the special on the disk is the old version with tubular track instead of fasttrack.

I built a table just out of 2x4 framing and legs.  I picked up some "leveling feet" from either Rockler or Woodcraft I think.

[lionelsoni]

I'll describe my layout's structure again, since it may have features that you can use.

First, it is an around the room layout.  This geometry gives you the longest run for the space you use; but it may seem impractical for a layout that you anticipate moving (as I do).  But the trick is to put all the complicated stuff in the corners, then connect them with sections having only straight track.  When you move, it is relatively easy to change the lengths of the sides to fit a new room.  But the structure works with freestanding layouts too.

The layout is essential ordinary 15/32-inch ("half inch") CDX plywood, stiffened with perforated steel angles and supported by PVC pipe legs.  Each leg is 1 1/2-inch schedule-40 pipe with a 1/2-inch bolt through it near the top.  The bolt length is the same as the outside diameter (2 inches) and is held in place by two nuts inside the pipe.  The bolt goes through the eye of a 1/4-20 screw-eye, which protrudes from the top of the leg, through a hole in the plywood, and is snugged to it with a washer and nut on top.  This makes a very strong and rigid joint.

The steel is 1 1/2 x 1 1/2, with perforations on 3/4-inch centers, or 2 1/4 x 1 1/2 for longer spans, fastened to the plywood with 1/4-20 x 1-inch carriage bolts.  I just pop the angles and the legs in wherever needed.  The steel generally doesn't touch the legs.  I put legs right at the joints between sections, with a short piece of angle centered over each leg to join them together and to prevent any discontinuity in slope across the joint.  This also makes assembly and disassembly easier than when the legs are offset from the joints.

My layout is fairly high at 45 inches, because I have cabinets, desk, workbench, bookcases, etc. underneath.  The legs that I use are limber at that height, so I have tied the layout to the walls at a few points.  However, stiffness decreases rapidly with leg length and increases rapidly with leg diameter; so the concept can obviously be applied to shorter or thicker legs as needed to keep a freestanding layout from swaying.

[Demay]

Dennis and Buckeye,

Thanks for the great information, book recommendations, and quick replies.  Dennis, I am looking for something I can expand on in the future which is why I am actually getting away from the ping pong table idea.  However, I am still in the Air Force and move every few years so I cannot go too big as of yet (hence the 5x9 size limit), and would prefer to be able to easily disassemble/reassemble part of the benchwork for relocating purposes. 

My initial thought was to grab some plywood and build some sort of box frame.  But I wanted to get some advice and help first so I don't end up wasting money. 

Joe

[Buckeye Riveter]

 

 

 

 

There, that should give you some ideas.  I recommend you take a look at this book or one of the older versions.  Large public libraries generally have this book.

 

 

[dwiemer]

Joe, there is a book from Kalmbach (owners of CTT and this site) that gives a pretty good explanation of several types of benchwork.  Also, you can find some information on the Web, or on YouTube.  That said, some thoughts:

Many folks these days go towards either "cookie cutter", in which a piece of plywood has a track plan drawn on it and the areas that are going to have raised elevation are cut with a jig saw and that particular area is raised with 1x2s or similar sized wood.  The scenery is done by either foam or plaster cloth, or paper dipped in plaster and going from the elevation to the main level. 

Another method is using "L-girder" in which 1x2s or similar size is glued and screwed to 1x4s to form an "L".  this is very strong and offers great support.  I did this and used 2x4s for legs.  I have my primary layout level at 41" off the floor.  I put a frame of these L-girders up so that I have bracing every 16" on center.  Then, you can take 1x4s and set them to different levels so that you have a realistic scenery base to start from.  This allows for rivers, tunnels, etc.

Lastly, you could always go with the tried and true 4x8 sheet of 1/2 plywood on a 2x4 frame with either extruded foam or sound stop/homasote on top to lower track noise.  For the 5x9 layout you mentioned, if this is to be a movable layout and you don't want to expand, some have had a lot of success using an old ping pong table.

Good luck,
Dennis

[Demay]

I am about to venture into my first benchwork project.  I plan to build benchwork to have a 5' x 9' or 5 1/2' x 9 1/2' layout.  I have the needed tools and tool knowhow, but I lack benchwork plans.  Does anyone have any plans or blueprints for benchwork around this size they can share?  I don't want to buy any more wood than necessary, and also having some plans to follow should make it go smoother.

Thanks,

Joe