cwburfleThe 736 has worm dirve. This type of engine cannot easily have it's wheels turned by hand.
CW, if the 726/736 is lubed properly(and it may not be sitting on a trading table) it will roll very smoothly in both directions. This goes for the turbines too... single worm & double worm(1946 models) included.
Rob
Luther, I have several post war engines. The 736 is one of my favorites. Pulls great and smokes up a storm. Enjoy.
God bless TCA 05-58541 Benefactor Member of the NRA, Member of the American Legion, Retired Boss Hog of Roseyville , KC&D Qualified
You should be able to turn the drive wheels in both directions on the 2046. The machanism should be nice and smooth. Check to see whether the axles wiggle much in their bearings. Look for wheel wobble and bindingThe 736 has worm dirve. This type of engine cannot easily have it's wheels turned by hand. There is more resistance, and sometimes the wheels can be turned in one direction but not the other. You can still try to wiggle the wheels and check for axle bearing wear.On the Berk, the drive rods actually drive all but the wheels closest to the back. Look for enlarged drive rod holes.
On both engines, try to spin the pony wheels and look for wobble. Might as well look for chipped wheels too.
As I posted on eariler, take it over to the test track, and run it.
luther_stantonWith some train shows coming up, I would like to purchase a 2046 Hudson and possibly a 736 Berkshire. These will both be runners. I have purchased a few scout cars and operating cars over the last year with success but have not really purchased any steam engines. Any suggestions on what to look for / how to tell running condition, etc prior to purchase? I am fine with rewiring, changing brushes, etc - I am more concerned about serious problems with the gears, bearings, etc. Any thoughts on what to look out for would be appreciated. Thank you,Luther
With some train shows coming up, I would like to purchase a 2046 Hudson and possibly a 736 Berkshire. These will both be runners. I have purchased a few scout cars and operating cars over the last year with success but have not really purchased any steam engines.
Any suggestions on what to look for / how to tell running condition, etc prior to purchase? I am fine with rewiring, changing brushes, etc - I am more concerned about serious problems with the gears, bearings, etc. Any thoughts on what to look out for would be appreciated.
Thank you,Luther
Lots of good advise from all here so all I will add is that the 2046 is one of the best postwar steamers and if you find one with the 2046w tender, which is the correct tender, check and make sure the whistle operates well. A lot of the time they don't get lubricated correctly, if at all, on the impeller side and get worn down there. Otherwise, good luck and happy hunting!
Luther,
In the early '70's. my wife bought me a second hand 2046 Hudson, which according to Lionel is a mid-sized engine, of a 0-27 class.Regardless of it's size and classification, it was a work horse when we first bought it, in the early '70's. and it is still a work horse now.
It was made to perform and last!
Enjoy,
Ralph
I have 2 736 Berks and the only problem I had was old wires and a finicky E-unt. I love post war engines and unless they are abused they pretty much hold up. Wire just get old and there is nothing you can do about it. Only real thing I had goo wrong was a faulty e-unit but had one laying around and combined both to make a good one. I found out when I go to shows it's always the same guys with there tables and I'm honest with them and they are honest with me. I know some engines are gonna need work and I ask if it needs anything and if he knows another vender who has the part. And I always stop at there tables and say hello even if I don't buy anything so they remember me and build up a repore. But like any money making market there are guys that want top doller for junk and will lie. If you look on Ebay buy like it's gonna need work cause they always do.
Post War Hudsons are my favorites. I am a real "horse trader" when I go to shows, swap meets, auction or flea markets. The first thing that I look at is apperance. 1. Are both jewels intact? 2. Are the stanchions that hold the jewels present? 3. Ckeck the headlight lense and assy. 4. Check the "cow catcher" 5. Is the cab roof damaged? 6. Is the cab bulkhead missing? 7. Number condition 8. Check condition of the wheels, drivers and linkage. 9. Rust and corrosion. 10. Overall paint condition. 11. Check the front pilot truck and wheel assy. for bent axels, excessive wear, rust and worn wheels. 12. Check rear trucks for bent axels, side plate conditions and excsssive play. 13. Check the pickup rollers and mounting hardware. 14.Does it have the CORRECT BOILER FRONT? 15. If no test track is available, check to see if the motor drive wheeks turn. I have found that if the wheels turn free with some drag it is most likely a decent unit. TENDER: Do your homework. Make a list of the proper tender for the engines you are lookig for. Use that as a bargaining lever. Checking the tender: 1. Overall appearance 2. Check that all of the steps are intact. 3. Check the rear coupler. 4. Check the condition of the pickup rollers and mounting hardware. 5. Check the condition of the wiring. 6. If a test track is available check the horn. 7. Check for body cracks. 8. Check for rust and corrosion. 9. Check the condition of the trucks, axel and wheel assy.
Remember that the price in the Greenberg guide is for ENGINE & CORRECT TENDER. Buy and trade accordingly.
John
+1 on what cabooseboy said.
Also look for the center rollers, and their keepers to be in good condition. I found a few engines with enlarged roller keepers that resulted in poor connections, and needed the parts replaced.
Key items to look at are the trailing wheel assemblies, boiler fronts, size and color of numbering, and correct tender for the model and year you are looking at. The 726 RR (1952) does not have magnatraction, if that's important to you.
If you have a book, take it with you, and leave it in the car for reference, or just make yourself some crib notes.
Kurt
Well....I have restored a few post war steam engines in the past year so heres my take.....its not like you can take the boiler off and inspect the internals for rust, worn gears or frayed wire. #1 rule is If it can be test run then witness it doing so if possible at the show...if they cannot do it then walk away... There are plenty of reputable o-gauge websites that deal in selling post war steam and will tell you the status of the item in question and will shoot you straight....i would try to stay away from auction sites as you don't really know for sure what you are getting for what you are paying for. I am into doing restorations so i am pretty picky about what i start out with. You can see abuse from the outside but its what you cannot see inside that should be of concern. If you can see it run just make sure it runs smoothly in both directions, smokes if it is supposed to and whistles if the tender has a whistle. The other important thing is whatever you want to buy learn as much as you can about it before you go looking for one.... prices, variations, etc....knowledge is power and the more you know the less a chance you will be disappointed with what you end up with.
Most train shows have a test track. At some shows, they will even let you try out an engine on their display layout. Until you are experienced, and even when you are, I recommend trying the engine before you buy. If the locomotive doesn't run smoothly, assume the worst.
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