New Title: TMCC Questions- RESOLVED

[dbaker48]

 Have a couple of basic questions, anyone have some thoughts or ideas?

1.  TMCC "Whatchdog Signal" and power up timing.

- Basic premise is that the TMCC Command Module has to be powered up BEFORE power is applied to the track.

To date I have had the power to the layout as follows;  From wall to a "Master Switch", (fuse protected), then to a Surge protector which has the TMCC Command plugged into that.  Another, surge protector is plugged into the first one, and the ZW bricks are plugged into it.  (Possibly a micro second delay?)  The TIU is plugged into the first surge protector.  This has been working fine.  However, recently (past 2 months or so), if I "start" a TMCC engine it may not have received the watchdog signal.  Andstarts in conventional mode.  Now, IF I start a DCS engine first, the TMCC engines start in Command mode !

Solutions I am thinking about is either put a "2nd" master switch one dedicated to the TMCC Comand Base, OR leaving the Command Base on 24/7.  Which i don't really like.  Do any of you leave the Command on all the time??

2. Caboose marker lights.  I have had a perpetual problem with the marker lights on cabooses.  As fast as I can replace the LED's, I will have one go out.  I have the track power at 18v.  The best I can put together is that a surge from a derailment or a car shorting may be causing the problem.  Only thing I can think of is either a diode or resistor in the caboose.  Or, reduce the voltage. 

3.  Drastic drop in Sound.  Does anyone have any idea why the sound on a TMCC engine will go suddenly to a near mute state?  And, what do you have to do to recover it?  Cant seem to get it back to regular volume.  Checked Eng Snd button, Volume Button, replaced battery in engine, restored default settings.  Still get volume as being barely audible.  Hmmmmmm

Appreciate any thoughts!

Thanks in Advance 

[Train-O]

Don,

I am sorry, I don't know the answers, because I would be able to tell you and I would be able to save money on my own repairs.  Shut off your electrical equipment, not only to save costs, but for safety and preservation of the item.
I have a Lionel T.M.C.C. U30C made in 2002, I bought it from an unscrupulous well known hobby shop owner who told me that it was BRANDEEE NEW!

My fault, because the item was difficult to locate, I bought it from a Web.Site-mail ordered and I wanted it and I GOT IT!

Besides, the selling price of $349.00, I had to send it to Lionel and then to a local hobby shop who is Lionel Authorized to do repairs and after another $290.00 later, it works great for the most part and at times it does what it wants to do and at other times it does not want to do anything.
It just shuts down, until I touch it, gently of course, it costs too much, already!  No, T.V. repairs with a hammer, or a good solid blow with a hand!

Other, than that, it works like a charm.  Where, have I heard that before?

Talk about originality of items.

Oh! Yeah!  Forget about 'Guarantees', that's a thing of the past and 'Warranties,' that's up to the manufacturer, as I found out that Lionel's warranties are only good, not from when you buy the item, only for a year, from when the item was made!  Other, than that, tough sh--!

Remember!  It's BRANDEEE NEW!, and the warrantie is good for a year from the time the item was manufactured and that depends on who the manufacturer is!

I learned that any hobby shop that does not want you to check the item in the store, before purchase, can do something with it!  The damned things cost too much, that's why I now look for the item I want, save like a child thanks to the economy, living in the Greater New York Metropolitan Area and having a fixed income.  No!  I'm not sore!  I'll just have to move.

Good Luck,

Ralph

[dbaker48]

Someone has to have some ideas..... All the engines are sitting there waiting, not knowing what to do.

[dougdagrump]

Don,

Are the "surge protectors" in a readily accessible location?

If so why not, at end of a run session, turn them off individually  starting w/power s/p then the control s/p lastly the master switch. To initiate a run session do the same sequence in reverse. (s/p = surge protector)

I only have TMCC or conventional ops but my sequence is s/p on then power source on and I've never experienced a  non-control issue.

[Buckeye Riveter]

Don.....I run straight TMCC, no DCS.  I flip one switch and the transformer bricks, the TPC 300 and the Command Base all are turned on.  I then do my thing with the CAB-1 to turn on the track power, so I would first suggest disconnecting the DCS and see what happens.

The sound problem sounds like there is a wire that is almost ready to break.

I believe the LED's need a resistor from my reading.  My LED headlights already have something installed beneath the shrink wrap and even for you I am not going to cut it apart to see what is there, but look at Scott's Odd's and Ends. 

[lionelsoni]

Do you have the September, 2008, CTT?  I have an article in there that might help.  Did your caboose LEDs come with the caboose; or are they something you added?  It is true that you generally need a ballast resistor in series with the LED; and it's important to protect them from reverse voltage, either with a series diode or, better, another LED or an ordinary diode wired in anti-parallel.

[dbaker48]

dbaker48

 Have a couple of basic questions, anyone have some thoughts or ideas?

1.  TMCC "Whatchdog Signal" and power up timing.

- Basic premise is that the TMCC Command Module has to be powered up BEFORE power is applied to the track.

To date I have had the power to the layout as follows;  From wall to a "Master Switch", (fuse protected), then to a Surge protector which has the TMCC Command plugged into that.  Another, surge protector is plugged into the first one, and the ZW bricks are plugged into it.  (Possibly a micro second delay?)  The TIU is plugged into the first surge protector.  This has been working fine.  However, recently (past 2 months or so), if I "start" a TMCC engine it may not have received the watchdog signal.  Andstarts in conventional mode.  Now, IF I start a DCS engine first, the TMCC engines start in Command mode !

Solutions I am thinking about is either put a "2nd" master switch one dedicated to the TMCC Comand Base, OR leaving the Command Base on 24/7.  Which i don't really like.  Do any of you leave the Command on all the time??

Solution: It is a definite timing problem.  If I separate out the Command module and insure it is fired up I get the signal every time, and no start up issues.  I am going to change the "master" power on switch to a duplex switch, so that I can still retain centralized control.  Just will require flipping 2 switches as opposed to one.

2. Caboose marker lights.  I have had a perpetual problem with the marker lights on cabooses.  As fast as I can replace the LED's, I will have one go out.  I have the track power at 18v.  The best I can put together is that a surge from a derailment or a car shorting may be causing the problem.  Only thing I can think of is either a diode or resistor in the caboose.  Or, reduce the voltage. 

Solution: Yep, I found the article, now I have to see what the LED ratings are in the caboose's.  (They are all original.)  It does baffle me, if I am having this problem why aren't other people.  It would seem I must have something different that would require modifying all the "off the shelf" items. 

3.  Drastic drop in Sound.  Does anyone have any idea why the sound on a TMCC engine will go suddenly to a near mute state?  And, what do you have to do to recover it?  Cant seem to get it back to regular volume.  Checked Eng Snd button, Volume Button, replaced battery in engine, restored default settings.  Still get volume as being barely audible.  Hmmmmmm

 Solution: Couldn't find any operational issues, then decided to check out the speaker wires as a result of Buckeye's comment.  Found that the 9v battery casing was touching the speaker.  The casing was apparently shorting out the speaker.  When I reinstalled the battery I had the wires for the battery connector and the speaker routed on the outside of both devices.  That let the battery be drawn to the speaker due to the magnet.  When I separated them the sound was fully restored.  I then rerouted the wires in between the speaker and battery, and problem is resolved!

Appreciate any thoughts!

Thanks in Advance 

 

I really appreciate all you comments, it got me thinking and the problems will be resolved.  Thanks, Ralph, Doug, Bob, and Buckeye.  

[Roger Bielen]

Don, If you're running strictly command control at 18v, why bother with the batteries?  They are meant for conventional control so that the sound doesn't die when the track voltage is lowered.

[dbaker48]

 Roger, You are correct of course.  I do have 2 locations where the sound is interrupted without the battery.  The only other time is during shutdown, and the lingering sounds.  Crazy huh ???