Engine Shed Build

[simon1966]

Hi everyone, back again and thoroughly enjoying my son Christopher's sojourn into the world of 3 rail. So Crispy decided that he needed some structures.  Well my passion in HO scale is structure building.  I have always been envious of the fine-scale O crowd that produce stunningly detailed models, so thought it would be fun to start a father and son scratch-building project.

This thread will be where we document our progress as we set out to build a 2 stall engine shed.

First thing that struck me is just how big things get when in this scale.  His track is basically O-27 so we measured out the track separation needed to get 2 stalls coming from a single switch.

The base of the engine shed is some foam board we had lying around from a school poster project.  It seemed to me that the 3 rail track sat a bit high, so I cut a recess for it.

It is a bit stark, so Crispy colored the pits

 

 This is going to have a wooden floor, so what better than to use a box of Popsicle sticks, of course the ends need to be trimmed off.

After a couple of soakings in an alcohol and ink mixture we started to get some decent weathered looking boards.

With the rails recessed, the wooden strips sit nicely up against the side of the rails

The main structure is being fabricated form foam-core board, covered with clapboard siding made from cut up and colored file folders.

To give the paint some depth and texture it is being dabbed on with an old sports sock

Our plan is to continue with the siding over the next few evenings and then get the main walls assembled around the flooring.

I will update with progress as time goes on.

 

[rtraincollector]

Please do looking great so far

[simon1966]

Well, to put it mildly we have had a serious warping problem.  After getting all the siding glued on and dry, the foam board, especially on the long shed sides looked like a banana.  No amount of weighting down would take care of the problem.  In the end I solved it by making cuts in the backside of the foam-board to relieve the tension, and then using some fairly substantial cross bracing.

the cross bracing led to the decision to do something about the interior.  I happened to have one of those mixed bags of balsa shapes handy and so we made wood paneling for the inside.  Actually, I think it looks quite good!

Over-night we clamped and weighted down the main walls onto the base.

So here we are this morning with the main walls all installed and nice and solid.

We are not going to try and make our own windows and doors, so are awaiting some to arrive from Grandt line.  Next step will be wood trim for the corners and a first stab at weathering the thing.  Plus of course deciding on what to do with the roof.

[joetrains]

simon1966 What is that device used to trim the ends of the popsicle sticks?

[simon1966]

It is a Northwest Shortline Chopper 2

http://www.nwsl.com/tools/cutting-tools-the-choppers-i-ii-iii

 

Lots of places carry them on the web.  I happen to find it invaluable when repeated cuts are needed.

[joetrains]

 Thanks

[underworld]

 Awesome Build Simon and Crispy!!!!! Maybe corrugated metal roofing??? You can pick up a paper crimper at a craft store  (if you don't already have one) and make roofing panels out of cardstock and paint them.....or......I use sections cut from soda cans and run them through the crimper. Looks really impressive on a large project like this.

 

 underworld  

 

[kpolak]

That looks great!  What a great father and son project.

Can't wait to see the weathering!

Kurt

[simon1966]

Thanks Underworld, yes I think corrugated might be the way to go.  After HO this thing seems vast to me (17" x 12") and the roof panels look like an enormous expanse to cover.  Since this is going to get some play, I need to be a bit careful about sharp edges, but other than that, I really like the idea of making our own.

[simon1966]

As you can see, there is quite a large area to cover for the roofing

two sections 17" x 8" to be exact.

Having trolled around the web looking at commercial O scale roofing materials, I have to say that I am impressed with you full time O scalers.  The costs are noticeably higher in this scale.  We will for sure be exploring a home made solution.

[underworld]

 Looks awesome Simon!!! Because of the edges, then cardstock may be a better way to go. A friend of mine uses the card from cereal boxes. He makes critters (small locos) from card also. Paint can give an amazing amount of body and strength to card models. I know someone also making a large scale canal boat with shellac coated card (not to go in the water though!!!). I'm working on some stuff right now in 1/12th scale .....costs for that can be realllly cRaZy!!! Working on a model of a narrow gauge steam tram. Card for the framework, wood overlay and an Aristo 45mm gauge motor block. In 1/12th that works out to about 22 inch gauge. The motor block is the only thing I really have any money in, the card and most of the wood I already had and the cost for the wood If I had to buy it now would only be a few dollars.

 

underworld

 

[Anonymous]

For the roof material go to Lowes. They have some thin sheet metal near the mailboxes. If you have a stiff metal ruler or other straightedge you can make groves in the metal sheeting to simulate joints, then you can weather with paint.

I think there may even be printed color paper with sheetmetal detail.

Another option could be to call JusTrains to see if they have sheets of sheet metal styrene that they could sell you. They make the large building kits you see in the CTT add. At York I was told they have made extras of parts incase someone receives a warped piece in one of the kits.

[Ole Timer]

 Not on this probably since you're going with metal roofing .... but in the future if you ever want very realistic shingle roofing ... grab some sandpaper and clear coat the back ... then cut it in roof shingle size and glue them to the roof . Nothing looks more shingle realistic than sandpaper .... and it's cheap . You can even warp a few or more for aged appearance ... or have some missing in spots .

 And might I add ... it's looking GREAT !!  One of the guys think it looks huge ... lord I have to build one eventually long enough to house my cab forwards and alleghaney ... and they need the tenders on to run yet ... it will have to be well over 30 " long .... Just think of the darn massive turntable I'll need and it'll have to be scratch built also .....

[simon1966]

Thanks for all the suggestions.  Actually a decision on the roof has not been taken.  I hope that we will perhaps get something done on it this evening or tomorrow.  Still waiting for the windows and doors to show up!

[underworld]

Brent

I think you are talking about roof flashing??? That stuff is amazingly useful!!! I think I've used it for just about everything BUT roof flashing! Everything from different model projects to makeshift reflectors to fixing my exhaust system!!!

OleTimer

The sandpaper idea is awesome!!! You could even recycle some sections of used sandpaper for a really worn look!!! I really like to model scenes of urban and industrial decay. Definitely have to remember this one! I have to build an engine house for my 1/32 scale Marklin....I think that with the tender is well over two feet so I know what you mean! For your turntable drive you might look at recycling an old record turntable as the mechanism. Add a larger platter and it would be pretty easy to slow down the turntable it its belt drive. If it's gear driven you might be able to get away with reduced voltage to slow it down.

Simon

Ahh mail order....can't live with it....can't live without it!!!!! That's one thing I miss around here....virtually no old school style hobby shops anymore. The closest ones to me are more than an hour away.

  

   underworld  

 

[kpolak]

A built-up roof is one more idea to cover the roof.

Floquil Grimy Black painted directly on strips of a napkin.  Make sure the paint is oil base for this to eliminate warping with acrylic.

You can use a darker flat black (Rustoleum flat black) to add highlights of the tar seeping out from under the roofing felt.

[Anonymous]

underworld... you could use roof flashing, but it has very sharp edges, which is something simon was trying to avoid. What I am talking about is actually sheet metal. They have a section near the mailboxes (where they sell the thick steel corners, rods, etc). I bought some 1/32 thick steel to build a control panel for my layout (idea since scrapped). It was easy to cut with a metal sabre saw blade and then I used a metal rasp to round the edges. You can also buy sand paper for metal use as well. While messing around with it I tried to score the metal with an exacto blade, not too successful there, but I found some diamond jewelers files and they did a good job making lines. I think you can buy other devices to accomplish the same effect.

After having seen simon's excellent project I am highly considering redesigning the layout... I know a major undertaking, and one I am sure I will, like the metal control panel, scrap.

[cnw1995]

That's sure part of the fun, Brent, redesigning. The nice thing about sheetmetal that Brent suggests is you can 'curl' it securely around the eaves so it's not sharp. Our Lowes had some very thin that was easy to manipulate. We found the roof flashing too thick to work with easily. Beautiful work, Simon and Kurt

[Ole Timer]

 Underworld ... by golly I think I have 2 old turntables packed away in the basement in some of my old stereo equip. I kept hem in case I ever found some old vinyl as they called them to re-record . Never have and they would make alot better use as a turntable .

And if you wanted what they call the old tarpaper roof ... the sandpaper cut larger is great too ... forgot to mention that one .... also the real fine paper looks great as blacktop on a parking lot or driveway . It's even easy to paint the parking lines on . Our local dollar store sells a big pack of all assorted grits for a dollar a pack . The real couse grit is great for roughing up your wood for that old well worn effect . Some have even used it for concrete walls concrete pads or sidewalks .... gives you that real concrete look .

On the flashing guys ... if you take a fine file you can eliminate the sharp edges very easily . There is a little hand held tool to easily remove the edges also and I think home depot sells them . If you are going to be working with aluminum you can make one from a strip of heavy guage sheet metal with a deep V cut in it on one end and tape a handle/holding area on the other .... works good . I bend it ..the flashing .... or thin sheet metal ...in a vice and plastic hammer or use a set of sheet metal tongs I have from my duct work days .  If you have any square seams ... mix some glue and appropriate paint color and fill them from the back side .

 A very inexpensive resource for sheet metal is a local heating-air conditioning shop in you area that makes duct work ... they always have a pile of leftover scrap sheetmetal in all guages they'll almost give away .... and if it's galvanized ... you can solder it ! An easy way to prep it is with vinegar for soldering to clean it .... use acid flux or acid flux solder ... we did it for years when I was lead man in one .  Just be careful of the fumes when  soldering ... do it in a well ventilated area or outside .

[underworld]

kpolak

Awesome inexpensive tarpaper!!!!!

Brent

Ok....yeah they have several sizes and gauges of the sheet stuff. Now I know what you mean!!!

Ole Timer

Cool....now you can fiddle around with the turntables to see which one is easier to adapt! Yeah, sandpaper I have seen done painted grey for sidewalks. Dollar stores are awesome for stuf like that.

 

 underworld

[simon1966]

Thanks all for the ongoing input and suggestions.  It looks like you are having a party without me!!

 Windows and doors showed up yesterday and got a lick of paint in the evening.  Nothing to show yet as they were drying over night.  It is always a relief to find that the holes I cut were the right size!

A neat suggestion I got from a friend was that by burnishing heavy duty kitchen foil onto HO scale clapboard siding a decent looking corrugated effect can be achieved.  Sounds like a decent idea, so I experiment with that.  Plus is should be something that Christopher can try his hand at as well.

[kpolak]

Pre-cut the sheets, and weather before you burnish.

Also, try pressing the foil between the 2-matching pieces of styrene.

I've heard good things about this doodle too.

 . . .

.   .   .   .

 Well...done yet???  Where's the pics?

[simon1966]

We have made a fair amount of progress, much of which is not evident in the following photos.  The windows and doors have arrived from Grandt line, and have been painted and are waiting glazing.  I am pleased to say that they fit the holes created for them, based on the dimensions from the web site. I was a bit nervous about that!

The entire roof is now adorned with heavy duty embossed foil using the advice and tips from others  Note that we failed to follow one piece of advice to paint the foil before installation.  This was not an oversight but a conscious decision largely driven by a lack of a suitable place to spray anything, it being too cold in the garage right now.

Scale foil sections were embossed on a section from an AMB HO scale depot kit.  Would you believe that I had a hard time finding a big enough piece of plain clapboard handy!

Crispy has had quite a bit of homework this weekend, so I set about painting the roof.

Basic craft paints, left to cure overnight, building the effect from 2 different grey paints.

Here it is now after an alcohol and ink wash of the siding.

Once the roof has fully cured, rust colors will follow to really pick out the individual panels.

I am heading to Fargo ND, for some business meetings today.  I know, what idiot goes to ND in January!! So it will have plenty of drying time until we can do anything else.

[Anonymous]

Simon this is simply AMAZING! Makes me want to get into the basement and start building some buildings!

I certainly hope you took enough photos and notes so you can submit this as a project to CTT!

[simon1966]

Well thank you Brent, that is a compliment indeed.  I certainly have taken a lot of photos, not sure if they are really magazine quality, but what ever, we certainly are having fun with this.  Having been a long time subscriber to Model Railroader, I am looking at getting a subscription to CTT.

[kpolak]

Simon & Crispy:  Looks great!

[simon1966]

I made it back safe from Fargo.  It was 22 degree F here in Illinois today, positively balmy after the -7 that I endured when leaving my hotel yesterday morning!

A small amount accomplished this evening, using cheap acrylics and some dry brush

these are real quick snaps with a cheapy camera, so not that great, but give you some idea of the effect I am after.

A roof that is in basically sound condition with some surface rusting.  No holes in the roof or major damage.

[strogey]

simon1966

It is a Northwest Shortline Chopper 2

http://www.nwsl.com/tools/cutting-tools-the-choppers-i-ii-iii

 

Lots of places carry them on the web.  I happen to find it invaluable when repeated cuts are needed.

  What is the maximum thickness and lenth of the material that can be cut on this cutter?

Thanks in advance!

[simon1966]

strogey

What is the maximum thickness and lenth of the material that can be cut on this cutter?

I guess there is really no limit to length, in the sense that the sides are open so there is nothing to stop you putting something really long on the cutter as long as you could manage the practical aspect of supporting the piece.

As for thickness, it would depend on the density of the material.  1/2" of a softer balsa would probably work, but I suspect that this would be too much in styrene, or higher density of wood.  The hard wood Popsicle sticks required quite a bit of force for example. My main application is in HO where I use it to cut fairly thin strip wood.

The cutter uses a single edge razor blade, and I have noticed that on thicker stock, there tends to be a slight angle to the cut.  I know that many modellers will rotate the piece and cut partially from each side to minimize the impact of this.  If you want a really true cut, for a precision modeling project then the best thing is to cut with the chopper and then true up the cut with another tool called the True Sander.  This ensures a perfect cut.

[simon1966]

It has been a very busy weekend, but we did manage to get some finishing touches done to the engine shed.

First of all some washes really helped to blend in the roof.

It has a very pleasing effect and I am rather happy with our tin foil roof.  It sure cut down on the cost and I think is a fine stand in.

As you can see, all the windows and doors have been painted in Crispy's chosen color scheme.

The engine shed doors were a bit of a pain, but I think I have a working solution.  The hinges have wire pivots that are then placed into cut opening in the wooden door trim.  I fabricated some fairly crude styrene fake hinge plates to cover the wire and hold everything in place.

They open and shut and seem to be somewhat sturdy.

Now, of course we could go on with this, do some interior work, detail it out, maybe even scenic the surround? But a certain young lad seems more keen to get it into service and start playing with it.  So we will have to content ourselves with a few beauty shots.

It has been a fun project, one that I think will stick in Crispy's memory for some time to come.  It was not all that intense, an hour here, an hour there.  I feel like I learned a few things along the way, so thank-you to any and all that made suggestions and comments.

So we end this build with a mood shot or two.

I could not resist getting the camera in close and personal, to try and give that being part of the model feel.