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Cleaning

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  • Member since
    November 2007
  • From: Cape Ann Taxachusetts
  • 3,780 posts
Posted by RockIsland52 on Monday, January 11, 2010 1:40 AM

Here's another link:  http://cs.trains.com/trccs/forums/p/118577/1354356.aspx#1354356  

  

Re: value of 2353 santa fes

 ezmike wrote:

Hey Jim,

I'd like to try something on those NYC F3's I showed you. I'm surprised that polishing compound didn't do any harm. Even when I was just cleaning up the F3's the white stripes were pretty delicate. If I remember from my "car" days, compound of any kind takes some amount of paint with it even if it is polishing compound. What brand did you use? I'm inclinded to go with a clear coat of some kind.

Mike

 

 

Turtle Wax Clear Coat polishing compound, Mike. The only delicate areas I came across on the 2343s were the rubber stamped red, yellow, and black stripes. I'm sure that the white stripes on a 2344 are also rubber stamped and need to be handled carefully. And yes, the compound does remove a small amount of paint. It will remove a lot of paint if one isn't careful. I'd leave well enough alone as far as your 2344s go. They are too nice as is.

Jim 

See the Scenic Jumijo Railroad in CTT and OGR magazines!

IF IT WON'T COME LOOSE BY TAPPING ON IT, DON'T TRY TO FORCE IT. USE A BIGGER HAMMER.

  • Member since
    November 2007
  • From: Cape Ann Taxachusetts
  • 3,780 posts
Posted by RockIsland52 on Monday, January 11, 2010 1:32 AM

RockIsland52

Ben......back in the first quarter of 2008, March I think, this topic was covered but I am likewise not able to find it for you doing an archive search.  KoolJock and Jumijo had some product recommendations but I don't remember what they were, except they emphasized that the postwar lionel reds and silvers were very fragile like on the 2343s.

What was recommended was a gentle cleaning in luke warm water with just a few drops of a very mild soap.  Care not to disturb lettering or decals.  Q-tips for the nooks and crannies.  Very soft and well used toothbrush and wood toothpicks for the vents.  Repeat if necessary.  Gentle is the order of the day. 

I recall that one of these guys suggested that any washing or the use of a product such as a wax or a polish be tested on an inconspicuous spot on the painted underside of the shell first to see what happens.  One had suggested a Turtle Wax (automotive) product for clear coats.  All with light and gentle application and removal by hand with a soft cotton cloth like a t-shirt.

Personally, I have used SC Johnson's Pledge (a furniture product) on my post war diesels and steamers since about 1960 with no ill effects on the paint, lettering, striping, or decals.  The furniture wax doesn't last like an automotive wax would but it doesn't leave a residue build up either.  I started out with the original Pledge formula.  Stuff with "lemon" or "orange" might be harmful.  And they have variations of the product that can be used on multiple surfaces, not sure that is a good thing.   

Let me check to see what Pledge variation I more recently used and search the forum archives.  I'll let you know what I find.

Jack

Ben----Here is the link to one of the discussions....it included r&r on old 23XX Streamliners.  I'll look some more.

http://cs.trains.com/trccs/forums/p/121024/1382679.aspx#1382679

Jack

IF IT WON'T COME LOOSE BY TAPPING ON IT, DON'T TRY TO FORCE IT. USE A BIGGER HAMMER.

  • Member since
    November 2007
  • From: Cape Ann Taxachusetts
  • 3,780 posts
Posted by RockIsland52 on Monday, January 11, 2010 1:16 AM

Ben......back in the first quarter of 2008, March I think, this topic was covered but I am likewise not able to find it for you doing an archive search.  KoolJock and Jumijo had some product recommendations but I don't remember what they were, except they emphasized that the postwar lionel reds and silvers were very fragile like on the 2343s.

What was recommended was a gentle cleaning in luke warm water with just a few drops of a very mild soap.  Care not to disturb lettering or decals.  Q-tips for the nooks and crannies.  Very soft and well used toothbrush and wood toothpicks for the vents.  Repeat if necessary.  Gentle is the order of the day. 

I recall that one of these guys suggested that any washing or the use of a product such as a wax or a polish be tested on an inconspicuous spot on the painted underside of the shell first to see what happens.  One had suggested a Turtle Wax (automotive) product for clear coats.  All with light and gentle application and removal by hand with a soft cotton cloth like a t-shirt.

Personally, I have used SC Johnson's Pledge (a furniture product) on my post war diesels and steamers since about 1960 with no ill effects on the paint, lettering, striping, or decals.  The furniture wax doesn't last like an automotive wax would but it doesn't leave a residue build up either.  I started out with the original Pledge formula.  Stuff with "lemon" or "orange" might be harmful.  And they have variations of the product that can be used on multiple surfaces, not sure that is a good thing.   

Let me check to see what Pledge variation I more recently used and search the forum archives.  I'll let you know what I find.

Jack

IF IT WON'T COME LOOSE BY TAPPING ON IT, DON'T TRY TO FORCE IT. USE A BIGGER HAMMER.

  • Member since
    October 2009
  • From: Outside Pittsburgh PA
  • 12 posts
Cleaning
Posted by benni311 on Sunday, January 10, 2010 11:29 PM

OK, well after 2-3 days of searching on here (not continuous) i can not find the thread with the information i am looking for.

i have a 2343 set which i would like to clean. i can not find the thread on which the poster said he used zymoil to wax after cleaning? the shells have very light wearing on them, and i'd like to make them look decent again. i know they won't shine like a ferrari but close to new would make me happy :)

 

thanx!!

Ben

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