My newly aquired GP9 I bought for around the Christmas tree:
Did I get ripped for $175?
Anyways, I bought it local at a train store to replace my tired F3 that could harldy pull itself. 45 minutes into use it started to slow down and really sounded like it was straining + smelled like it was burning. Thinking the guy told me the loco was just serviced and re-lubed, I looked elsewhere. I cleaned and lubed every single car, sanded the track with 600 grit, and then wiped with alchol, it still did the same.
Upon pulling the motor, I found the gears to have this tacky sticky lube all over, some even on the armature and pole plates. I sprayed it all out with QD Electronic Cleaned, re-oiled the wheel bushings with mobile 1, and then applied a light coating of light automotive grease. Cleaned the commutator also with 600 and it solved the problem. I picked up just a bit of speed, but more importantly I can run 2 hours + and still no overheating. So I suggest if you know how to, clean and re-lube you locomotives especially if you just picked them up.
You did everything right. Those MPC motors will have a long life but do require oil and grease from time to time. Don't forget a very small dab of grease at the top of the armature shaft.
"IT's GOOD TO BE THE KING",by Mel Brooks
Charter Member- Tardis Train Crew (TTC) - Detroit3railers- Detroit Historical society Glancy Modular trains- Charter member BTTS
Did you get ripped? If you really wanted the loco, I guess not. Though $175 for a loco (and lets not forget the caboose) for a used loco that needed some service seems high to me.
I agree with your advice. Sometimes you buy a used loco that HAS been maintained, so you can put it on the track and it just runs with no tinkering or maintenance.
On the other hand, I just normally as procedure, take apart and inspect everything I ever buy, new or used. Part of me wants to see how it works, and I also want to be sure everything looks as it is suppose to. I always lube the gears regardless of being used or new. On a used MPC or postwar product, I always check the motor to see how clean everything looks and how well wires look and are connected.
This is a great hobby, and as well made as most trains are (within logical parameters of price and product type), it goes without saying that they all need to be maintained and cared for. I've certainly seen some top of the line postwar products that were real beaters because they were not cared for... I have a couple big postwar steamers waiting for some major overhauls and a couple operating cars.
But I've been lucky like you... most times when I put the TLC into the item and the needed parts, the train comes right back to life. That's true with postwar and MPC products too!!
brianel, Agent 027
"Praise the Lord. I may not have everything I desire, but the Lord has come through for what I need."
Yes it was bone dry, so I did lube it up there as well being careful it would not get on the commutator.
I thought the price was also a little high but I really needed a loco to power my cars as my F3 was never going to make it. I needs major work that I need to learn more first before I can tackle it.
sir james I Don't forget a very small dab of grease at the top of the armature shaft.
Don't forget a very small dab of grease at the top of the armature shaft.
Luther
You got some great answers. One thing different that I do is use synthetic oil [I get cans of Slick 50 One Lube and spray into empy needle oilers. Synthetic is slicker.].
God bless TCA 05-58541 Benefactor Member of the NRA, Member of the American Legion, Retired Boss Hog of Roseyville , KC&D Qualified
It depends. If you use oil, you will simply need to re-oil it more often and not over do it. If you do it will leak all over the track.
I used light automotive grease.
I use a little grease on the grears and armature shaft, then oil on the wheel shaft bushings. Seemed to work ok. Teflon lubes also work well.
I suggest not sanding tin-plated track. Scotch-Brite will get it clean without removing any of the tin plating.
Bob Nelson
Mine is so old any plating is long gone. Scotch brite did not clean it very good and I spent about 30 minutes. Magic eraser didn;t either. I found the 600 to really bring the shine out. I bet though it will corrode in storage now.
600 grit is fine. Used emery paper or very fine girt wet type sandpaper [sued dry] for vehicle finishes. Never had a problem.
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