I had heard that the new 072 switches had problems. Then recently, we set up our club display at the fair using Lionel K-line super snap track and 3 new out of the box Lionel 072 switches. We immediately discovered that most everything that went through the switches would derail. It seems Lionel made them too shallow and the wheel flanges ride up in the swivel plate. Definately a very bad product. And these are $149.95 retail! I think Im going to try to find the K Line super snap switches.
Roger
Dave,
For the time I spent looking for them Justrains had the lowest prices posted although they had just received a shipment and indicated that the price was going up about $10. That's still less that have the MSRP of the Lionel switches. There may be lower priced vendors out there but I stopped looking when the owner of the train shop I work in on Saturdays offered me the K-line switches for $50 each brand new, never out of their boxes. Unfortunately I have no experience with any other to comment on their prices.
As for the loop-like hooks, as posted by others they are intended to lock two pieces of Super Snap track together without pins. This is possible because besides these loop hooks there are metal tabs on the bottoms of the rails that make contact with each other when you snap the track together. Here are two options for connecting the switches to tubular track; clip off the plastic hooks or loosen the last tie on the tubular track and push it back far enough to give the hook room. With either method you will have to use track pins.
One thing you also need to know. If you intend to create a crossover using two opposed K-line switches and want the two loops isolated from each other by inserting a fiber pin in the center rail you will need to either clip or remove the metal tab from the bottom of at least one of the switches. Otherwise they will make contact with the opposing track and complete the circuit. You only need to remove the one from the middle rail.
Good luck
Mike
D&H DaveGreetings to San Diego, I lived in San Diego in 1984 & part of 1985. Claremont and Mira Mesa. Beautiful area! The last time I was there, Roberto's Burrito places were springing up everywhere! My favorite Burrito from Roberto's was the Carne Asada Beef!!!! Oh how I miss those wonderful Burritos! Anyway, do you think Ross switches would be tricky to hook up to my existing Lionel 0 track? Thanks, Dave
I have replaced Lionel 072 switches with Ross switches on my layout in two places. Ross Cutom Switches are the best of the best but, if you decided to do this, you will need to get the molded foam roadbed pad that matches the switch. You will need this because the rail profile on the Ross is shorter than on the Lionel. The pad acts as a spacer to make the rail heights match. Also, You will need adapter track pins because the Ross rail is smaller than the Lionel rail . If you want to go with Ross I can tell you that it will be extra work to get them installed in an existing layout, but I think you will be pleased with the result. Remember to spray paint the roadbed pad a dark grey color if you don't ballast your track. They are molded in this yellow foam, so they need to be either painted or ballasted. Be careful if you ballast it not the get glue on the points or they won't swivel like they should.
George
D&H DaveGeorge, Through a few forums there seems to be quite a few people that are having problems with their Atlas-0 Switches. Other than the dead spot problem, how smooth does any Engine or Rolling Stock go through them? Thanks, Dave
My longest locomotive is a Lionel SD-80 MAC from some years ago and it does fine through those switches either lined for the straight or curved direction. I have Williams, Weaver, MTH, Lionel postwar, Lionel MPC and Lionel LLC locomotives. They all negotiate my Atlas switches smoothly almost everytime, in fact, I cannot remember the last time I had a derailment through one of those switches and I operate my layout almost everyday. Now there is one exception to the rule. I have a old 1941 vintage Lionel tender that has the little slide shoes on the bottom of the trucks. It does derail. If fact, it will come off the track and turn over. I don't consider that to be a problem really, because that is the only one like it I have.It came with a restored #224 steamer I bought. I'm sorry others are having problems. I don't have an explanation for it.
D&H DaveRob, Thanks loads. When you say drop-in replacements, does that mean the same pin arrangements? From the picture on the other thread it looks like there are little hook-like devices on the outer rails. If they're easy to connect to my existing track I just might go with the K-Line. The less hassle the better for me. However, if any arrangement or switch type makes my trains flow through without derailments I'll try my best to make the improvements. Thanks again, Dave
I don't have any direct experience with these switches, but you will probably have to take some wire cutters and cut off the little hook devices you see in the picture. This shouldn't matter if you use track screws to permanently attach the track to plywood, homasote or whatever you are using as a subroadbed. All other deminsions should be the same. The trains should not be able to tell the difference other than they should track better.
Lionel through it's long history has had some big hits and some big misses. Their new issue 072 switches are a miss. The fastrack and switches are a hit. Fastrack is a good product and it works well. It makes me wonder how they got it wrong with the re-issue 072 switches. They should have just been able to dig up the old drawings out of the archives and follow them. By all accounts, the pre-war 072 switches were a good product. But they design the fastrack line totally new from scratch and get it right.
Anyone else care to comment?
D&H Dave When you say drop-in replacements, does that mean the same pin arrangements? From the picture on the other thread it looks like there are little hook-like devices on the outer rails.
Those tabs are for connecting to the now discontinued Super Snap track. You need to clip them off to use with non-Super Snap. They have the same rail profile & height as regular Lionel "O", insert pins as/where needed.
Rob
There is no better switch than American made Ross, IMHO.
Atlas is a good brand also. I have several and my trains negotiate them well. They can develope electrical dead spots which can be fixed by soldering jumpers.
Dave, as I said in my response to your other thread I'm very pleased with the K-line switches. At 1/3 the MSRP (if you search a little) of the classic Lionel switches and keeping the tubular look they were the way to go for me.
I'm not sure of the modification Rob is referring to but Lionel does produce a transition track to connect FasTrack with any tubular track. Complaints and or issues with FasTrack switches are very few and far between.
Good luck.
Dave, the K-Line switches I pictured in the other thread, the Super Snap type, are drop-in replacements for the Lionel units and are very highly regarded. GarGraves & Ross are a different rail shape and are of a lower profile, close to O-27.
You have another option: Lionel. The height & profile of the O-72 FasTrack switches match your track nearly exactly, and slight non-destructive modification pertaining to the rail pins(removing them) make these drop-in replacements too. The FasTrack switches are the smoothest on the market today for sectional track systems.
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