I have a vintage NP 44 ton switcher that sounds like the gears are grinding when running. It does this in both directions. The wheels and grears are all clean and lubed. I bought the unit used and am wondering if something is wrong or if this is typical for this engine. Is there any cure?
The problem is the lower bearing plate is floating in the stamped aluminum motor side frames as the factory staking has worked loose over the years. The old Lionel fix for this was to "dent" the side frames with a punch, some shops used cardstock jammed in to firm up the plate.
I have had good luck using tiny black anodized self-tapping screws into drilled pilot holes to hold the bearing in place.
For a non-destructive fix, my latest method, though, beats them all. Using the CRC QD or any non-residue contact cleaner, clean ALL oil & residue from between the sideframes & the bearing, using the nozzle to spray into the crevice. Dry it out well, several hours or overnight.
Now use the regular "thin"(not gel) CA adhesive("Super Glue", Eastman 910, etc.) and flow the cement into the crevice on both sides, letting it creep in by capillary action to fill the gap.
In about 10 minutes, the loco is ready to be lubed(grease on gears, oil on pivots & bearings/axles) and will run like new.
Rob
Thanks for the help. My engines are packed away right now but I printed your response and will give it a try ASAP. Sounds like you've done lots of them in the past.
I have had some engines with this problem, and have a very quick fix. Use a pair of needle nose pliers to put a slight twist into the aluminum plates so that they are tight against the black plastic lower bearing support. I did this first on a 44 ton loco 35 years ago, and it still works OK.
I would also recommend the use of thin SUPER GLUE on the lower bearing plate. I don't do anything special to clean the gap between the plate and the aluminum plates, but just let the glue soak into the gap. It is quick, easy and doesn't require bending or screwing anything. I have done several of my own engines this way and it really works. I have a the 44 ton loco and it runs very quiet.
dsmith I have done several of my own engines this way and it really works...
It is really astounding how easily this modern chemical takes care of an old problem.
As a youngster in the 60's, I always ran my 616 & 621 switchers cab forward, as they just would not go hood forward. With the Super Glue fix, those same locos now run as smooth as silk in both directions.
I just picked up a nice NP 44 ton switcher and every once in a while the gears seem to bind. I have disassembled cleaned and lubed the motor. It runs great 98% of the time but occasionally just after changing direction it seems bind a bit until I apply more throttle. The plastic bearing plate seems very tight and does not budge in the frame. My question is should there be a ball bearing between the bottom oif the worm gear on the shaft and the plastic bearing plate. The manual shows this but my loco doesnt have one of these "ball" bearings.
Thanks,
Seth
O-27I just picked up a nice NP 44 ton switcher... It runs great 98% of the time ... should there be a ball bearing between the bottom oif the worm gear on the shaft and the plastic bearing plate... Thanks, Seth
I just picked up a nice NP 44 ton switcher... It runs great 98% of the time ... should there be a ball bearing between the bottom oif the worm gear on the shaft and the plastic bearing plate...
Use a 600-110 ball bearing to get 1/8" total end play.
All of the 600 series 44 Tonners and NW2 Switchers and 200 series Alco diesels that have the black plastic lower bearing plate usually ends up loose in its metal frame mount. Super glue added to the gap between the plastic plate and the metal frame sides will cure the movement of the bearing plate. Also as Rob states there should be a 600-110 ball bearing inserted in the tip of the bearing plate. Otherwise there will be too much play in the armature and the armature might sit low enough without the bearing to rub up against the inside frame and result in erratic motor rotation. If you move the wheels back and forth you should see the armature move up and down. This movement should be 1/8" or less. Also at the top of the armature shaft there should be at least one fiber washer. If the washer is missing the commutator of the armature might be able to come in contact with the brush holders which would also result in erratic motor rotation.
Great info, I have a few Postwar locos that could use the Super Glue fix.
Bill T.
Thanks a lot. I'm definatly missing the bearing ball. I'll have to add it to my next parts order.
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