Hiding seams in plywood

[Anonymous]

Hi everyone!

I have several 4X8 plywood pieces butted up against one another on my benchwork and I was wondering what I could do to hide the seams. Wood putty perhaps? Tape and paint? Any ideas?

[ChiefEagles]

Smoothed out laytex caulking. The silicone will not allow you to paint or glue anything so I would not use it. I am going to use the big sheets of foam insulation on top of my layout. This is recommended to me by some of the guys here. Got a neighbor who loves to use the term, "A little DAP will do it."

[spankybird]

Hi Jack,

I did it too late on mine, so this will become another summer project. I plan on using masking tape. I have already done some spot.

tom

[Dr. John]

You can use buildings and scenery to hide some of the gaps. Woodlands Scenics makes a plaster impregnated gauze roll that might work well. Just wet it and use it to cover your gaps. Of course, you'd have to paint it too.

[4kitties]

Ready-mix drywall compound works well for me. My benchwork is screwed to itself and to the walls so I have no problem with the compound cracking and falling out. You could tape and feather the joints but I don't bother since they will have paint and texture over them anyway. The bonus to this method is that it's quick to do, takes paint well, and if needed, it's easy to take apart later.

[FJ and G]

dap

[Anonymous]

I'm new at this site as well as the model railroading world, but this info here should help as well as all of the other neat information out on this site. I'm glad someone asked this question, this is a need to know; for those who don't.

[spankybird]

Hi Robert,

Welcome to the CTT Forum


don’t be afraid to join in on any of the threads


tom

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by spankybird

Hi Robert,

Welcome to the CTT Forum


don#8217;t be afraid to join in on any of the threads


tom

[Anonymous]

Amtrack Jack -

I used spackle paste to fill in seams on my layout. Sanded them down and then painted over. Also did the same with any scewhead holes. Very easy to work with and cleans up with water.

[Anonymous]

Acylic Latex Window Glazing by Elmers worked great. Apply with a wet brush and let dry. It hasn't cracked like joint compound does.

[Anonymous]

I used wood putty first, sanded it down after drying, then pulled a thin coat of spackle with a putty knife to even up any irregularities. The "light" spackle doesn't need sanding. Can't see any seam or sunken screw holes. Worked great!

[Anonymous]

Some great ideas guys! I'm at that stage now and DAP seems to be working great. In a message to the new people:

Feel free to ask any questions! If you are a bit shy of how "the board" will react, DON'T BE!! The "there are no dumb questions" stands on this board. None of us here acts like they know everything, and in my case I fully admit as Sgt. Shultz on Hogan's Heroes used to blurt out, "I KNOW NOTHING! NOTHINGGG!"
[:D][:D][:D][:D]