Well I tried my best, and I could get the signals to work properly, when they were closer together (within 12" of one another). Unfortunately, the double tracks at this location require the signals to be placed 14", or just under 14", apart. The instructions say that 14" should be the max distance. I know we can get it to work the more traditional way, just thought this way would be neat. If you can get the IR sensors to work, they are pretty neat, and in theory easier than cutting rails and installing additional track wiring. Just be sure that the trigger signals are the correct distance from the rails, so they "see" the train rolling past.
For now it'll have to wait until I'm back in town around Christmas. Thanks for the help.
You can do it with relays as Don says; but all the accessories I'm familiar with can be operated directly from control rails
Bob Nelson
Nick,
I don't have any ideas or solutions, but will be very interested on what you find out. I have a couple sets of crossing gates that I was setting up with the Lionel IR controllers. Worked and worked at adjusting them, finally decided they are just not very practical for that application. (Sensitivity varies with time of day due to change in ambient light, also dependant upon car color, much less try to set them up to operate in bidirectional activity. I went back to isolated rail section and relays, everything works right everytime now! I have been considering some to the Zstuff sensors, hear they are better. Will be interested in what you find.
Don
Hi, I'm having trouble getting the wig wag signal to function properly. Here's a breakdown of what's going on.
I'm having trouble with the IR LED/Sensor set up. I can make everything work with the DZ-1011 signals, they trigger the wig-wags just fine, but the train crossing through the IR LED/Sensor of the signals doesn't activate them. This isn't a problem if the train goes through the whole set up quickly, because the timer from the initial start (set off by the 1011) is still going by the time the train leaves the crossing. I've adjusted the switches on the bottom of the signals so that the sensors on the signals aren't used, and everything is set off by the 1011s, but I'd rather that not be the case. When I turn the switches on for the IR LED/Sensor set up of the signals, the red LEDs don't turn off and neither do the signals. According to the instructions, this means that the IR LED and Sensor can't see one another, but moving them around doesn't seem to help. They are within 14" of each other. Is there a certain angle that works better? They are being used with two tracks (only one of which has the 1011s on it).
Basically I can't get the two wig-wag signals to communicate with each other through the IR LED (on the "master" signal) and the Sensor (on the "slave" signal). They are level and in view of one another.
I sent an email to "Dr. Z" at z-stuff and am waiting a return. Just looking for some advice from here.
Thanks
Nick.
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