sealing dry transfers

[sulafool]

What's the best (least obtrusive) way to seal a dry transfer applied to a die cast loco? Other than hosing it down with dullcote?

thanx!

[Roger Bielen]

The preferred way is with Dullcoat. If cost prohibitive, matte spray from an art/craft store is less costly. If you want a gloss there are gloss sprays available. I'd be hesitant to use anything brushed on as it might smear the transfer.

[sulafool]

I'm hoping to avoid spraying anything as the engine was just repainted (actually powdercoated) and it has the perfect "sheen". Would any of the decal setting liquids be helpful or would they eat the transfer?

[Anonymous]

Dry transfers are held down by the adheasive backing. I do not believe that water slide decal softener will have any direct effect. The glue is in the way.

I have gotten away with applying dry transfer to clear decal film and then top coating with liquid decal medium and then applying my "hybrid" decal as a water slide. The top coat seals the dry adheasive between the clear film and the top coat. The only disadvantage is the thickness of the dry transfer material leaves a raised portion to the decal where a pure water slide will be perfectly flat.

BTW, if you let that dry transfer "set", it will be almost impossible to remove without damaging the paint. I don't know about the time span required, but I have had dt decals that would not come off or left glue residue that would not come off after having been on an item for a couple of years.

[BigJim]

Here is how I seal decals. I would think dry tranfers would be the same. I clear coat with Floquil "Flat Finish" thinned a little bit. Oddly enough, this produces a nice satin finish, just like the factory paint job, not dead flat like Dullcoat.

[SPFan]

Regarding Floquil Flat, make sure its from current production. The older (>10 years) formulas were dead flat. The newer version is more like satin. I prefer Floquil sovent paints because they cover with a minimum of pigment. By mixing flat and "glaze" and trying it on a test piece you should be able to match the current sheen.
Pete

[BigJim]

SPF,
I have been using Floquil "Flat Finish" for over 25 yrs and have yet to get a flat finish from it.

[Big_Boy_4005]

Maybe the answer is to use both gloss and matte to get back to the right sheen. Take a piece of card board and cut an opening about the size of the lettered area. Holding this "window" a little above the surface of the train, spray the letters. Using this technique will allow you to get a soft blended edge for the coating of the letters. Start with the dull, then gloss to taste.

Just an idea I had.

[FJ and G]

I've never sealed mine. But I guess I'll follow your advice and start sealing it with dullcoat and flat fini***o see which looks better. I've got one of those tear em up and down locomotives to experiment on. I'm sure you have a parts growler in your toolbox as well.

dav

[BigJim]

I didn't think to mention that I was using the bottled "Flat Finish" and spraying it on with an air brush.

Floquil may have produced this in its own spray can and if so that may be why it did come out flat. Testors "Dull Coat" will be flat.

[sulafool]

many thanks, gang; I think I'll try the "Floquil with mask" idea to preserve the existing finish.