I have a pre war die cast Lionel steam engine that has lost one of it't middle rail pick up shoes off the bottom. This locomotive does not pick up have rollers, only flat spring loaded metal plates. The front one popped off and went to some place unknown in my garage. Are these parts still available? Where can you get them and what is the proper name for them?
George
I'm not a prewar expert by any means; but I had the impression that Lionel always used rollers and that shoes were typical of Marx. What is the model number of your locomotive?
Bob Nelson
Hi George
Give Jeff Kane a call at 585-229-2050. He has your parts. He is also a great person to deal with.
As I recall, they are called slider shoes, they were on the less expensive lionel steamers pre war and they made it to the early postwar production on 1666 and the 2026 2-6-2 steamers that I have. I also recall from when I was a kid that the 0-4-0 switcher also came in a version with slider shoes right after the war (WW-2 that is)
I got some replacements at a train show.
I have seen them variously referred to as "slide shoes," "pickup shoes, and "contact shoes." They are generally part of an insulated fibre mounting-panel known variously as a "slide shoe collector" or a "shoe complete" and perhaps other terms. One whose use was quite widespread was the "1661-33 slide shoe."
When dealing with one of the parts suppliers, such as Jeff Kane, or a forum such as this one, it helps if you supply the cab number of the locomotive or other item.
My usually reliable source for parts and useful diagrams, the "Library" at Olsen's Toy Train Parts, seems to be having problems -- or else my computer is. Nevertheless, the link below may give you some insight. It is intended only as an example, not necessarily a specific answer to your question. Check out the very bottom of the page. It is generally easier to replace just the metal shoe than to replace the fibre mounting panel, but both can be done:
http://pictures.olsenstoy.com/cd/locos/loc2026c.pdf
>
Thanks for all the replies.The number on the side of the cab is 1668-E. It is painted gun metal grey. The little fiber board appears to be warpped. That may have caused the one shoe to get lost. It does not look like you can get to it without taken the entire motor assembly apart. I really hate to do that.
overall Thanks for all the replies.The number on the side of the cab is 1668-E. It is painted gun metal grey. The little fiber board appears to be warpped. That may have caused the one shoe to get lost. It does not look like you can get to it without taken the entire motor assembly apart. I really hate to do that. George
The way I learned to do it does not require you to take the entire motor apart, but it's hard to explain.
The loco should be cradled upside down during this operation.
First, you have to get a new fibre-panel collector assembly. Then take a file and carefully bevel the little "ears" on one side, so that the fibre panel can slide down between the metal motor sides and "turn the corner" such that the two left ears will begin to enter their slots, followed by the two beveled right ears. You probably will have to spread and hold the metal motor panels a bit (possibly with the aid of a couple of pair of needle-nose pliers and a helper) and perhaps thin/trim down all of the fibre ears just a little. (It's a little like trying to insert a new toilet-tissue roller into its holes without the benefit of the spring.) Make sure you have the wiring set up the way it needs to be beforehand because you can't get to it later.
The "ears" on the fibre piece are depicted in this stick-diagram:
Before modification the fibre ears have a rectangular profile: |___________|
After modification the ears on one side look like this |___________/
The square end (the left side in the illustration above) must slide down (toward the top of the engine) until the ears "catche" slightly as they attempt to enter their slots. Then, as the metal panels are spread as wide as possible without damaging them, the right side is pushed down. With luck, the left side ears will enter their slots as the entire piece slides and rotates from the near-vertical to the horizontal, and the right side ears finally pop into their respective slots.
I'd order at least two of the assemblies because it is quite easy to bugger one or more of the ears and "upset" the fibre to the point where the ears will never slip into their slots.. The key is to remove as little material as necessary on any or all of the ears -- but not so much that the assembly will fall out. There is no need to cut any metal.
Once assembled, if the fibre piece appears to be too loose, you can tighten it with a drop or two of 5-minute epoxy or other filler. The real trick is getting the replacement fibre piece inserted into the slots via a little judicious trimming, without actually bending or otherwise damaging it.
Perhaps someone else can explain this technique better than I can. If and when it works, it's really cute.
Jason
B&O = Best & Only
I guess I will destroy the old one getting it out won't I?
Hi George, It is up to you if you want to replace the fiber plate. I have noticed that it is over oiling that warps the fiber plate. It may still work fine. I suggest that you remove the shoe from the good side and try it on the bad side. If it stays then all you need is one shoe.
The first picture shows the one I replaced.The second is the old one I removed. The third shows the shoe and the hole it fits into on the spring. The last shows the shoe in place and where to insert a paper clip or small screwdriver to remove the shoe.
On the shoe replacement the fiber material has a flex to it. I forced in the two centers, then the outer. I naturally changed the label first and soldered the wire connection before installing. One side always went in first. From the picture the top went in first. The roughness along the bottom holes is from the srewdriver.
Dub,
Thanks for the information and the pictures. So, you take a flat tip screwdriver and insert it into the half circle holes and then turn it until the fiber board pops out?
Yes I worked one at a time. To remove, start at one end and work across. Actually I have only done it once on a 1666. I wanted to change it to rollers but the design is different so I stayed with the slider shoe. I do know I did not trim anything.To install I did start in the center and did the outers last.There was a slight give in the frame to help but not much
Our community is FREE to join. To participate you must either login or register for an account.
Get the Classic Toy Trains newsletter delivered to your inbox twice a month