455 Oil Derrick!!!

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455 Oil Derrick!!!
Posted by lionel2 on Friday, June 12, 2009 5:14 PM

What is the correct controller that is supposed to go with the 455 oil derrick??  Is it a 394C controller, the one with 2 screws underneath it?  Simple black on/off switch that lionel made.  What is the correct volts required to operate the 455 oil derrick? I dont want to over heat mine.  I mean to get it to bubble and operate smoothly.  Thanks.

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Posted by Train-O on Friday, June 12, 2009 5:24 PM

lionel2

#364C-"Control Switchl", I have mine from the early 1950's, a Christmas gift from Santa for my brother and I, as ordered by our parents.

Ralph

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Posted by lionel2 on Friday, June 12, 2009 6:21 PM

I have been told it was a 90 controller, But, I think that does not sound right.  I have seen pics of it with the 364C Controller.  Little black on/off switch.  Thanks.

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Posted by dbaker48 on Friday, June 12, 2009 6:52 PM

I have mine operating at 14v, with my DCS Controller.

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Posted by Train-O on Friday, June 12, 2009 10:33 PM

lionel2,

As, delivered by Santa, in the early 1950's, a Lionel #455 Oil Derrick, all original, with all of the original goodies and all complete.

My unit has a black bake-lite, two position('On/Off'), slide switch, with: "Lionel Control Switch" molded on the front cover of the switch case, and in white paint, printed on the back of the switch is: "364C", even on the instruction sheet and the envelope, the switch came in, refers to the 364C switch, if you must have an original one.

Olsen's Toy Train Parts-Library-shows five pages from a Lionel repair and operating manual and has listed under: "Part No.--364C-1", on the last, or page 5, of five pages.

Now, for some confusion; On the "Lionel Postwar Library" web.site, they mention a "#96C Controller", which may also be used and has a black bake-lite case.

The aforementioned switches and there are other switches which can be used, whether slide, spring tensioned, or whatever, such as a direct hook-up to a transformer.

Ralph

  

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Posted by Frank53 on Friday, June 12, 2009 10:34 PM

I have an original post war 455 Oil Derrick!!! I don't have it hooked up right now!!! When I was using it, I used an on/off toggle!!! It's a really nice accessory!!! If can find a way to blend it in, I am considering using it on this layout!!!

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Posted by lionel2 on Sunday, June 14, 2009 12:59 PM

i have a 364C controller in my parts box somewhere, Guess I will use that.  Thanks.

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Posted by Train-O on Monday, June 15, 2009 10:01 AM

lionel2,

Now, you have the correct/original switch for #455 Oil Derrick and there were only four metal oil drums-(part #455-23), which fits on the black plastic drum rack. 

A fifth oil drum would have to be purchased seperately and can be placed under the pump's oil spout.

I put black thread aorund an oil drum and suspended it from the derrick's lifting hook, this would be a sixth oil drum, sold seperately.

There is one metel billboard with tabs attached and a "Sunoco" decal affixed on a white background-(part #455-53).  This billboard hangs on the Tower Structure.

Have Fun,

Ralph 

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Posted by lionel2 on Monday, June 15, 2009 10:00 PM

Mine has 5 barrels and the sign on it.  Thanks.

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Posted by Train-O on Tuesday, June 16, 2009 12:52 AM

lionel2,

You're lucky to have five oil drums, as both "Identifying Lionel Electric Trains" and "Lionel Postwar Library" web.sites make mention of four aluminum oil drums coming with #455 Oil Derrick.

Since, your question of the #455 Oil Derrick, I checked my piece to make sure all was complete, so as, to answer your post and I went to my local hobby store to buy four extra oil drums, well the store had them and a sign stated; "Original Lionel Oil Drums #455-23, $2.50 apiece."

Oh, they are original all-right, they're made of silver colored aluminum and have the same dimensions, as the older ones, but when were they made is another Lionel secret, as the newer ones weigh much less, than the older ones from the early fifties. 

So, I guess, I got a bargain.  Huh?!

Live and learn!

Ralph    

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Posted by lionel2 on Tuesday, June 16, 2009 10:36 AM

How long do you have to wait for the oil to bubble??  I have it hooked up to a Z transformer on like 14 or so volts.  Would it take like 5 minutes for it to bubble?  I read that in a book it takes minutes to bubble.  thanks.

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Posted by Train-O on Tuesday, June 16, 2009 11:43 AM

lionel2,

I'm sorry to say that may be due to the age of the item the liquid may not bubble right away, or at all.  I don't know the exact composition of the liquid, other than maybe some oil being in it and I don't know of a replacement for the liquid, but the instruction sheet only mentions after a little while the liquid will start to bubble simulating flowing oil, voltage is between 10-14, no more, or you'll 'POP' the bulb.

There's a lamp #151-51, 14 volts, miniature, clear, round globe, bayonet base which is located in the base, right underneath the glass tube of liquid.  The bulb provides the heat which causes the liquid to bubble, illuminate and become more noticeable.

Ralph

  

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Posted by lionel2 on Tuesday, June 16, 2009 12:38 PM

Ok, go it.  I will keep it between 12 to 14 volts.  Guess I will have to wait for it to bubble.  The pumper does go up and down every 3 seconds about and the lamp does light up.  Just have to wait for bubble action.  thanks.

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Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, June 16, 2009 1:47 PM

lionel2,

            Repro bubbling tubes are readily available.  I believe that these tubes are very similar to the ones that are used in Christmas tree lights, so that is another possibility if you are looking to replace the original tube.  Just be careful with the tubes. Do not let the liquid contact your skin.

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Posted by Train-O on Tuesday, June 16, 2009 1:53 PM

Jim,

Thanks, for the info. on the replacement liquid and tube and you're correct about the Christmas lights.

Now, I'll have to check my unit and see if I need to replace the liquid and tube, if so, I'll have to check the web.sites.

Ralph

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Posted by ben10ben on Tuesday, June 16, 2009 3:04 PM

The liquid is dichloromethane, also known as methylene chloride, and it's kept in the tube under a low vacuum.

If the vacuum is compromised, the liquid won't boil well, or at all. Also, since dichloromethane is very volatile, it will slowly boil off if the tube is compromised. If you have the right equipment and know-how, it's possible to add more liquid, then pump the tube back down and seal it back up. I've repaired a few(on old bubble lights, not oil derricks) in this manner, although I've also broken about as many as I've sucessfully fixed.

Also, make sure the base of the tube is in good contact with the lamp. It's hard for the tube to heat up properly if it's not. A small amount of heat sink grease, available from Radio Shack, isn't a bad idea. 

Ben TCA 09-63474
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Posted by Train-O on Tuesday, June 16, 2009 9:40 PM

Ben,

Thank you for the valuable info, now I know what's in the tube.

Ralph 

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Posted by RRCharlie on Wednesday, June 17, 2009 7:52 AM

You might try a red bulb as they seem to get hotter than clear bulbs do.

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Posted by Train-O on Wednesday, June 17, 2009 10:22 AM

RRCharlie,

Thank you, I never thought to use a different colored bulb and I never knew that the red bulb generated more heat.

Ralph

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Posted by lionel2 on Wednesday, June 17, 2009 2:01 PM

Ok, I got it working.  It takes about 5 minutes for it to bubble like crazy.  It did nothing for about 4 and half minutes then once at 5 minutes boom, it rapidly began bubbling up.  Its awesome!!  I moved the tube of oil closer to the bulb, then it bubble pretty good.  Thanks.

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Posted by David Barker on Wednesday, November 28, 2012 7:46 AM

I have a 455 oil derrick and it operates perfectly.  It is on my Ironton AMVETS office layout.  I use a separate Lionel transformer that came in the Christmas Trolly set.  The unit appears to be complete however there was no contoller with it when I obtained the derrick.  I did have to restring the hook, but since I did that duty in the Navy as a Bosuns Mate it was pure pleasue!

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