WHAT ADHESIVE TO PUT O GAUGE 3RAIL ON STYROFOAM?

[Anonymous]

Thanks for the ideas. This is Lionel 0 gauge track (054 curves & 022 & 072 switches for instance). The track is directly on 2" Styrofoam. I would like to be able to remove and re-use the track when changes are made later. Styrofoam will not hold screws. PL adhesive sticks too well, to everything (even the cement floor of the garage!) but was perfect for building the layout.

[Anonymous]

All sounds rather messy to me. Why not go tradional or use Vinylbed?

[Big_Boy_4005]

Jim, silicones shouldn't attack styrofoam because they aren't solvent based. It's the things like Liquid Nails that you need to be careful with. Actually, Liquid Nails has a special formula for use with foam. If you were trying to glue down tubular track, maybe a simple latex caulk would work. Those are even available in black.

[Jim Duda]

I'm reading this a little different than you folks are...he didn't mention what kind of track he's using...would white glue adhere traditional 027 and/or O gauge to the styro? Not much contact area on those metal ties...I'd also test the silicone adhesive on a scrap piece of styro...some of those adhesives attack styrofoam. Just a thought...

JD

[FJ and G]

Jerry,

He mentioned just attaching to styrofoam; perhaps it's too thick for screws. I kinda understand what he's doing as I'm doing something similar and untraditional.

Be sure to dilute the glue some w/water.

[Anonymous]

Why not just use screws???[%-)] Most sections have mounting holes in them, why not use them!

[Roger Bielen]

The white glue has another advantage, when you want to remove something just soak it with "wet" water. The yellow glue is water proof after drying since it is carpenters' glue.

Another posssibility would be the water based version of contact cement used to install vinyl baseboard. If you do your adjusting while it's wet no problem, after it dries it is a rubber film that can be peeled off. For a permanent glue use Liquid Nails that is for use with foam insulation board. I've also used a non-solvent version of the adhesive used for setting tiles, again a permanent glue.

[Big_Boy_4005]

I'm all in favor Dave's first suggestion of simple white or yellow glue. It is safe, easy, not stinky, and it's effective. I use it to glue 1/2" foam to 3/4" plywood then just use a few screws to hold the track in place.

[FJ and G]

Hi HUIZC,

A couple thoughts.

White Elmers Glue or Wood glue takes at least 30 min to set up and would not adversely react to the foam. Besides, it's the same thing you use for your ballast. As a matter of fact, you even could lay down the track and ballast without ANY glue, and then do it all at once, adding a drop of soap and a drop of alcohol to the spray bottle to ensure it soaks through the ballast. Give it a go with one section of track on a piece of foam to see how you like the results.

Here's another idea. Get yourself some Laguna self-hardening clay from Michaels and poke some holes in the foam. Then press the track into the clay so that it goes into the holes, acting as anchors. The clay takes a day or so to harden. But DO experiment with both methods. The clay idea might even create an extra layer of insulation to make the trains quieter.

A third idea is rubber cement, which actually may be better than the above 2 methods. Please try tthe experiments and report back to us with an abstract, intro, body, and conclusion with statistical charts and stuff. :-)

dave vergun

[Anonymous]

I have 54 feet of track and 9 turnouts to lay directly on Styrofoam. I want an adhesive that allows track sections to be removed later w/o their destruction. This forum recommends clear GE Silicone II but its set up time (according to GE technical support desk) is a short 6 minutes. I need at least 30 minutes to fine tune sections that lead to a figure 8, sidings, reverse loops, and parallel track. I do not intend to adhere the turnouts unless I read otherwise. This forum has been very helpful. Please mention the specific brand and name of product. And Thanks.