how to make a simple & reliable insulated 3 rail 0 gauge track

[Anonymous]

I need several insulated 3 rail 0 gauge sections for block control. I'm asking experienced users to share their best technique. Or is a book's description good enough? Thanks

[Anonymous]

Here is a simple way. Big Boy showed me this one time. You pry one of the out side rails off and put some insulative material underneath the rail, such as paper. Get some Insulator pins and put one on the insulated rail. Then put the rail back on and there you go, you have a insulated track!![:D][;)]

[ChiefEagles]

I use to pop the tabs open, pull out the rail, insert little pieces of vinyl electrical tape between tabs, put rail back in and bent tabs back down. You can use any kind of craft paper or anything that does not conduct electricty. Use insulating pin for each end of that block. I use to use lots of it. Controled all my accessories like crossing arms/signals adn etc. with them. You can even use a section of insulated track before a switch to make the non-derailing work before the train hits the switch.

[lionelsoni]

Pry all the tabs back from the rail with a screwdriver. Remove the rail. Optionally, squeeze the corrugations out of the rail and tabs with pliers. Cut rectangles out of thin cardboard or pressboard the (approximate) size of the center-rail insulators. Form the insulators by pressing around the bottom of the rail, but after making a little crease, finish creasing them between your fingers.

If you are insulating short 3-tie sections, put the insulators into the ties. Get the rail into the insulators. Crimp the tabs.

If you are insulating a long piece with many ties, put the insulators into the first and second ties. Get the rail into those insulators and crimp the first one. Add each additional insulator, then crimp the one before it.

I have a 50-year-old pair of pincers bought in Japan whose jaws just fit around the railhead and fill the space between railhead and flanges. These do a very good job of crimping the tie tabs back into place. If you don't happen to have one of these tools, you can do a pretty good job pushing them down with a screwdriver tip. Put something solid (like a nut) under that part of the tie first so that you can push hard without distorting the tie.

[Anonymous]

That's all there is to it! I use insulating material from scrap pieces of track. They already fit.

[Anonymous]

I did this with a number of sections of curved track on my layout to set up a crossing gate trigger.

I used black construction paper that I bought at Staples. I found that regular notebook paper didn't cut the mustard -- the sharp metal edges ripped through the paper & created an electrical connection, even when doubled or tripled. The construction paper is thick enough that the edges shouldn't go through, if you're careful with pressure.

Tony

[Anonymous]

A much better way IMHO is to determine of a train is on the track is to use Z-Stuff's
DZ-1011 Block signal detectors. No need to change the track at all

These resemble dwarf signals and have a IR LED light and Sensor built-in.
As the train comes close to the signal the signal light LEDs go from GREEN to RED; AND
no need of a RELAY It has a WHITE wire that provides Common as output that could connect to
other devices such as a crossing or another relay.

The cost is $22 for two detectors.


Alan

[FJ and G]

I no longer use the metal ties on my 027 track. I cut my own wood ties. I've used the Jerrylovestrains technique (which is time-tested) before and actually found it quicker to cut ties on my tablesaw.

dav

[jkerklo]

The best material I have found for insulating rails from ties is electrical "fish paper."

This link gives a good description of the procedure for insulating rails from ties and sources for the "fish paper:"

http://www.three-rail.com/3RIOR.HTM

Dave, what do you use to hold the rail to your wooden ties?

John Kerklo
TCA 94-38455
www.Three-Rail.com

[FJ and G]

John,

I use Marine Goop, a waterproof type of Goop found at Home Depot. It hold really really well. I've also had success using HO spikes, left over from my HO days. 027 tubular rail has an extremely wide flat portion which makes it especially easy to spike.

[cnw1995]

So Dav, you take out the metal ties and essentially hand-lay your 027 track using your own home-made wood ties? Is that how you do it?

[FJ and G]

Doug,

Yep; I was amazed to discover how easy it is to custom bend the rails to whatever radius you desire; in effect, making your own flex track. The reason the rails bend, IMO, is due to tiny ridges in the neck of the rail. I've actually test-bent 027 rails straight, but in actuality, I would bend 027s to 042 and instead, purchase the 3 ft long sections and simply bend those to nice wide curves. Once you get the hang of doing it, you can throw away your track software planning stuff and simply design the layout of your dreams to a custom-fit.

I've used Code 148 rails as well, but I really like the art deco look of the 027 rails. I have no use for the metal ties, however. They are nothing but problems if your insulation should wear thin, and wood looks so much more natural.

As for making the ties, if you have a table saw (or other type such as a chopper), you can crank out a tie every second or two, using your ruler gauge, feeding the lauan thru with the grain, or whatever other wood you like to use.

When done, I throw the ties in a five gallon bucket and add water and paint or wood stain. I've been using Walnut wood stain but may try to get a more correct color with black and grey. I'll be experimenting. Latex or any non shiny paint is fine.

I try to vary the distances between the ties and lay some in a bit crooked to complete the effect.

dav

[Algonquin]

The following is a link to a forum discussion from last year on materials for insulators.

http://www.trains.com/community/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=7288

Regards,

Tim Pignatari

[CSXJOE]

Lionel makes insulated track section already finished.

[Anonymous]

CSXJoe:

I needed to insulate some curved sections; I believe Lionel's premade insulated sections are all straights.

Tony

[daan]

Dave, I must say you got me very interested in your tubularrail with wooden ties!
I'll try that too, looks better than the metal-tie type, but has the benefits from tubular. Really a great idea, thanx.[tup]

[FJ and G]

Daan,

Great, experiment with a piece of track and try it, you'll get hooked for sure.

I bend my own rails. just wear a pair of gloves and do it slowly and not in one place so there's no kink there.

Even if you don't wi***o bend your own rails--an EASY thing to do--you can still lose the metal ties and replace with wood. I made my own gauges by using a piece of lauan (thin laminated plywood), cut 3 notches in the wood where the rails are and I simply use the gauge to ensure my rails are properly spaced. Incidentally, our wide flanges have LOTS more tolerance of gauge than, say, N or HO, so you don't have to be within a hair. I experimented and actually found that the rails can be as much as 1/8" off, but I still try to get it right on. If the rails are too far apart, the trucks will drop thru or wander and if too close together, you get a lot of drag.

After applying glue (and you don't need much goop), set some books on the tracks to hold them down. After a couple of hours, you could take the books off even though the instructions say 24 hours for a good setting time. If you want to later change your track plan, you could pry the ties off using a chisel without much difficulty, just scrape.

Try a section of track. The goop even acts as a sort of insulation, giving quieter operation.

dav

[FJ and G]

daan,

I was just looking at my website and on page 2 you can see the ties a bit better on my experimental homemade stub switch: http://davidvergun.tripod.com/

The turnouts I'm designing now are more standard than that and #8 and have just a wire for the center rail but you can see the goop and the ties I cut.

Scroll further down and see traditional track with wood ties; esp. the Shell oil refinery (which, btw, was scratchbuilt with an ice cream container, parts from a car and fi***ank painted white and even a tampon holder).

Dave V.