changing coupler to operating

[kpolak]

Hi Dennis,

I have a 8111 DT&I switcher with the same issue.  One coupler can be easily changed, the other will require surgery as it is rivited in place.

A coupler from a 2338 or similar GP-7 will work.  The 2338 coupler arm is longer, the spring has more tension, but the metal 'T' and the rest of the 'tack' assembly will fit into my 8111, so I am assuming it will work for you.

Kurt

[ChiefEagles]

I found a Lionel part that worked [several years ago].

[dwiemer]

It is on a switcher, but I am going from the plastic non-operating style to a metal operating coupler.  Will have to fashion a mount and centering method.

dennis

[ChiefEagles]

Is this on a switcher?  If so, there should be a "hairpin" spring that keeps it centered.

[Train-O]

Dennis,

The present plastic fixed coupler, from what you mention, sounds as if it's an articulated and is a self centering type of coupler.

Does the replacement coupler have the same features as the one being replaced in that it's articulated ( coupler drawbar is jointed independant of the truck) and self centering ( the drawbar springs back to it's center position when free to do so and is also independant of the truck ) ?

Unless, you don't want the above described features, it may not bother the operation and turning of the car with the new trucks and or couplers, but if you're changing the trucks then make sure that the truck's mounting post has the same height and diameter of the old one and that you're able to secure the new truck to the car, or there might be too much loose play in the truck and probably cause a derailment.

Also, if the car has the corner steps, you have to make sure that there is no interference with the truck and the steps, the coupler drawbar should be able to have no problems with the steps.

Other forum members may have other, or more suggestions, than me.

Good luck,

Ralph 

[dwiemer]

Hello again.  Another question for our learned crowd.  I have a Lionel #8569 in Soo livery that I want to change one of the non operating couplers to a operating one.  Note that this is just the operating style, not remote, just has the metal "thumbtack" that functions with a operating track.  I have the new coupler and the problem comes with the install.  The old one was plastic and had a piece on the back that would return the coupler to center.  How should I mount the new one so that it does the same?  Any suggestions are appreciated.

Thanks,

Dennis