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2331 and 2340

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  • Member since
    April 2006
  • 44 posts
Posted by jpelosi2002 on Wednesday, February 11, 2009 9:48 AM

Bend the tab on the front truck that keys it into the frame. Take as much play out of it as you want. You shouldn't have problems on the 022 switches after that. The design should have incorporated a spring to keep the truck down. Instead it relies on the weight of the truck itself.

My 2340 pulls like a bear and runs quietly and smoothly. I regard it as one of the best runners in my roster. You can pick one up in nice shape for around $350. Money well spent in my opinion.

Jim

  • Member since
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  • From: Ann Arbor, Michigan
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Posted by kpolak on Tuesday, February 10, 2009 5:11 PM

The weight keeps the front truck down, and keeps it from riding up on the switches, and derailing.  My derailing problem is on the lead truck only, so it solves my problem.  I thought yours would be the same.

Is you e-unit sticking?  ie the plunger not releasing?  It may be easier to buy one that has been rebuilt, depending on how handy you are.

To rebuild:  (not for the faint of heart)  (small parts, easily damaged)

  • Pry the sides apart to release the base of the e-unit.
  • Remove the drum, base and finger unit.
  • Remove plunger.
  • Clean and plunger and celenoid interior with denatured alcohol.  I polish the plunger and celenoid with polishing compound, and re-clean to remove any residue.  No oil here.
  • Clean the fingers and drum.  Check for damage, and replace parts with excessive wear or breaks.
  • Re-wire the e-unit with new wire.
  • Re-install drum, and finger units.
  • Enjoy!

Kurt

  • Member since
    February 2008
  • 554 posts
Posted by runtime on Tuesday, February 10, 2009 4:30 PM

Thanks Kurt.

Mine happens to be missing the ballast weight, and I just haven't gotten around to ordering one from Olsens yet. However, while the weight may improve traction a little,given the free floating, articulated deswign, I don't see how it would add any downforce on the leading (or trailing) trucks.

Regarding the e-unit - what is involved in a 'rebuild'? Mine will switch if I apply sufficient voltage - more voltage than I need to run.

runtime

  • Member since
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  • From: Ann Arbor, Michigan
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Posted by kpolak on Tuesday, February 10, 2009 5:24 AM

Runtime:  I have the same derailing problem with my 2332, but it can be remied by running it weight end forward.  It is much happier on larger radius curves.  I rebuilt my e-unit, and it works fine.

Kurt

  • Member since
    February 2008
  • 554 posts
Posted by runtime on Monday, February 9, 2009 9:39 PM

jimtrumpie

runtime,

                Why do you not consider the 2332 to be a good runner?  Personally, I feel that they are on the same level as the early 675/2025.  My 2332 is smooth, quiet, and it pulls well.

Jim,

Unless I run very slowly, the leading truck will derail over my 022 switches. Mine also has a sticky E-unit, but that's probably more easily fixable than the truck derailing, for which I see no easy solution (the wheels seem to have too much play on the axles).

runtime

  • Member since
    April 2003
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Posted by Anonymous on Monday, February 9, 2009 9:31 PM

runtime,

                Why do you not consider the 2332 to be a good runner?  Personally, I feel that they are on the same level as the early 675/2025.  My 2332 is smooth, quiet, and it pulls well.

  • Member since
    February 2008
  • 554 posts
Posted by runtime on Monday, February 9, 2009 9:22 PM

 

 If you want a GG1, buy a real postwar 2332.  You'll be much happier.

I would not call a 2332 a trouble free runner. Besides no Magna traction, it's quite a finicky runner in my experience. I'm surprised to hear that the later models (2340, 2360) are also troublesome - I've always thought that those are what I should be aiming for in the future.

runtime

  • Member since
    April 2007
  • From: MICH
  • 8,153 posts
Posted by sir james I on Monday, February 9, 2009 9:05 PM

Williams appears to be the better buy right now. I have the GG1 SET and no problems except a rubber tire wobble when it was new. others have reported problems. but we have not heard from the hundreds who may have gotten a trouble free train but are not on forums.

"IT's GOOD TO BE THE KING",by Mel Brooks 

  Charter Member- Tardis Train Crew (TTC)   - Detroit3railers-  Detroit Historical society Glancy Modular trains- Charter member BTTS

  • Member since
    April 2003
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Posted by Anonymous on Monday, February 9, 2009 8:14 PM

trainrat

My opinion after having 2 GG1's here- Save yourself a LOT of grief and wasted cash and don't do it. Go buy a Williams instead. Both the GG1 and Trainmasters are loaded with problems, both mechanically and electronically.

Roger

Roger hit the nail on the head there.  I purchased the GG1 set and loved it at first, but I came to hate it after doing some research and taking the GG1 apart.  It is a mechanical nightmare.  At least the boxes look nice though.Whistling  If you want a GG1, buy a real postwar 2332.  You'll be much happier.

  • Member since
    July 2007
  • From: Philadelphia
  • 409 posts
Posted by PhilaKnight on Monday, February 9, 2009 7:38 PM

Ditto. Willams engines look just like the old Lionel and run good for half the price. Williams even makes a scale GG-1 that looks great and I think it runs on 0-42

  • Member since
    August 2008
  • From: Virginia
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Posted by TRAINCAT on Sunday, February 8, 2009 10:35 PM

My opinion after having 2 GG1's here- Save yourself a LOT of grief and wasted cash and don't do it. Go buy a Williams instead. Both the GG1 and Trainmasters are loaded with problems, both mechanically and electronically.

Roger

  • Member since
    March 2007
  • 97 posts
2331 and 2340
Posted by initagain on Sunday, February 8, 2009 9:46 PM

With the price of both original versions of the black FM 2331 Virginian, and the tuscan 2340 GG-1 absolutely skyrocketing, I am thinking about buying the postwar conventional classic versions of both of these locomotives.  Has anyone purchased either or both of these engines, and if so, what are your comments, good or bad. 

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