Lighting many buildings on a display layout with LED's or other lights

[lionelsoni]

This guy has LEDs that mimic the color of incandescent lamps:  http://www.richmondcontrols.com/

[nickelplater]

I haven't used LED lighting in buildings because the light color is not what I see in real life.  I use 16Volt grain of wheat bulbs and operate them at 12 volts.  While this doesn't provide large amounts of lighting, it is how I posture the lighting that gives the effect I want. 

First, I do not light an entire building.  Real building are never fully lit unless a party is going on.  I section off the building with foam board and light up only certain sections/windows.  I too use reflective paper to increase the effect.  Most of my building have three or four lights only.  But, I get the effect I want.

 Rick

[Taranwanderer]

I'm gonna shoot for next Wednesday,(if you guys are gonna be there,) if we don't get dumped on again. Spent several hours blowing snow at my house yesterday, fun fun!

[cruikshank]

 Why do I get the feeling I'll be working on this on your layout soon?

Hey, that would be great. We'd be pleased to have any help. So hope to see you soon! , Dave

[Taranwanderer]

While I'm electrically challenged in the LED wiring department (I'm doing this on a dummy locomotive right now,) as for how to position them: what if you ran the wires up the inside of the building and hung the light down from the ceiling, like a realistic chandelier? I'd think that might give you the visual effect you're after...being able to see the light. As for realistic--you might have to tone down the appearance/brightness of the LEDs to simulate 1930s Pottsville. Why do I get the feeling I'll be working on this on your layout soon? :)

[lionelsoni]

Read my article "Basics of LED lighting" in the September, 2008, issue of CTT, page 62.

[Model A]

 HI CRUIKSHNK

 I HAVE MANAGED TO DO WHAT YOU ARE TRYING TO DO .  I FOUND OUT IF YOU CUT THE LIGHT INTO  THREE TO FOUR LIGHTS IN A SERIES  YOU CAN USE A 12 VOLT  DC CHARGER . LIKE FROM A CORDLESS DRILL OR ANY OTHER OLD DC CHARGER  WORKED FOR ME . I ALSO PAINTED THE LENS WITH WHITE OR PINK WATER PAINT FROM MICHELS CRAFT . YOU HAVE TO FIGURE OUT THE + AND -  OF THE LIGHTS  YOU CAN DO THIS WITH A THREE VOLT BATTERY SOURCE.  ALSO I HAVE USED A  50VOLT BRIDGE RECTOFIER FROM RADIO SHACK TO CONVERT AC VOLT TO DC AND A 470 OHM RESITOR TO PROTECT EACH LIGHT CIRCUIT  SUPPLY FROM LIONEL TRANSFORMER  AT 12 VOLTS   ONE OF THE SOURCES I FOUND ON THE INTERNET IS  ( THE LED LIGHT .COM ) (  www.theledlight.com/ledcircuits.html  this was in the year 2005    I HOPE THIS HELPS    MODEL A

[cruikshank]

 I already wrote a thread about this, and I'm back to the well for more answers. I bought several type of LED Christmas lights with hopes of using them to light the many buildings on our display layout. We have been trying different variations tonight. We drilled a hole, put one light up through, no good see the bulb.  So we put aluminum foil in the roof of the building, drilled a small hole, put in a dowel, tied the bulb up higher. Don't see the bulb, but too dim. We then tried 2 bulbs. Better.  We also added cellophane inside the building to simulate glass for the windows. We diffused the cellophane with cheap hairspray. Still not satisfied.  So some questions.  What is the ideal setup for building lighting.  We are talking buildings in a coal town circa 1930.  Also what is the ideal voltage for one LED.  Since the distance doesn't really work between the LED's on the strings, if I use LED's I'm thinking of cutting them apart, using them as individual or a string of two. I know I'll need a dropping resistor what value and wattage?  I'm thinking of adding a lighting bus and wiring each led into it.  I want to do this right, so I might as well start it the right way. For a large long term display layout on a cheap budget ( we are all volunteer with donations only ) what's the right way to do it?  Thanks so much.  Dave