Need help w/Masonite

[tunatx]

I'e found Masonite easy to work with. Not only can you get it in tempered and non tempered versions, but a white surface is also available. For a straight run, painting anytime would be fine, but when it's bent, you can get paint cracking. I would suggest standing it up in the direction it will be used before painting. If you lay it flat, it's quite flexible and handling might induce cracking. The sheets aren't particularly heavy, but boy are they awkward!

Also, if you need to cut it, it's dusty and you need to use a fine blade to get a smooth cut. I've even seen it used successfully as layout fascia. Nice, useful product

[Anonymous]

I know your not going to bend it but for anyone else who may have curves there is such a thing as bendable plywood. I'm not sure a place like the Depot will have it but if you go to a lumber/plywood yard that supplies cabinet and woodworking shops they will know what you are talking about. It bends in one direction only so you could bend it around a curve and not have it flop over. It's pretty slick stuff and if I remember it may be kind of pricey but it is an alternative to look at.

[Buckeye Riveter]

Make sure if you are using a circular saw to cut the masonite to get the right type of blade. [:D]

Home Depot, normally will cut it to the sizes you specify.

[Dr. John]

I used tempered masonite as a backdrop on my previous layout. I installed it prior to painting, curving it around corners. I used an inexpensive flat latex paint, light sky blue in color. I used a roller to apply the paint (two coats). The backdrop was up for five years - no problems with paint peeling or wrinkling.

[Big_Boy_4005]

Foam core is a real pain to work with. IT WARPS SEVERLEY WHEN PAINTED WITH LATEX PAINT!!! The problem is that the paper face absorbs the moisture from the paint, and you end up having to paint the back side just to get it to uncurl. Stick to the Masonite, 1/8" isn't that heavy.

Oh, and congrats on your 500th post and third star Dave!!![:D]

[FJ and G]

Bob,

Bob N.,

I'll be sure to look at all of the stuff tonight at home depot, incl. foam core board. I believe, however, that the masonite board would be less prone to breakage during storage and removal when (or if) I eventually dismantle the masterpiece.

dav

[lionelsoni]

I have used foam core board for a lighting valance, which has lasted about 15 years so far. I see that it can be had in an acid-free version. How about using that for a backdrop? It is so light that you could actually support it with velcro.

[Anonymous]

I used short height masonite around parts of my layout. I did not support the back and after a while and I no longer had access to it, it became wavey. It is not too bad but if I get a chance I will just paint the walls when I redo the layout.

Don

[Big_Boy_4005]

That's the whole point of the forum Dave,

sharing ideas!

You start great topics, and I have a lot of experience, form years in clubs, home layouts, working in hobby stores, and reading magazines and stuff. I find the weekends sort of dull, when you aren't posting.[;)]

I'm going to run out and pick the yarrow, back in a little while.[swg]

[FJ and G]

Neat trick, Wally.

Elliot,

Very interesting. I didn't know it comes in 2 varieties!!

I'm learning much today, btw.

Reg. attachment, I hadn't even thought about velcro. I had planned to use drywall screws.

Now I've got more info to digest. Great ideas, guys!

dav

[Big_Boy_4005]

Dave, Masonite comes tempered and non temperd. I suggest using the tempered, it absorbs less, and will stay clean and not get fuzzy. The tempered is a very dark brown color, the non tempered is more of a golden brown. Tempered may cost a little more, maybe a buck or two.

Laying down a coat of primer may not save a step, because primer is not supposed to cover, but it will help take away the darkness of the material, and help the paint stick better. You will be able to tell pretty quickly once you get started.

I'm not sure how you plan to fasten the panels to the wall, but since the weight of the panel will be supported by the layout, velcro would just keep it from flopping over.

[wallyworld]

I forgot to add a trick I use. If the primer is also Acrylic, you can mix in a little blue from the smaller container and tint the primer to a 'sky blue" shade and just roll it on-it saves a step.

[FJ and G]

Wally,

Thanks for tips. Mine won't curve. I've got a 52 foot long basement wall that the shelf layout will run on with no corners to negotiate.

dav

[wallyworld]

I've used this stuff an alot depends on whether or not you are going to bend it.
If you bend it, it's pretty likely the paint will fold and crack on the surface unless you keep it in it's curved configuration after removal. I've been experimenting with Acrylic
Enamel and it's pretty user freindly as it cleans up with water and is pretty durable.
Priming is an absolute necessity or the paint will just be soaked up into the wood and you'll end up putting on three + coats.. This is not a good thing if you are painting on scenes. Drywall primer is fine. I bought the paint at both Ace and Lowes-it comes in 2 oz bottles which sure beats being stuck with a half gallon of leftover paint. The brand name on the stuff I use is "Homefront."

[FJ and G]

Last night I decided to use masonite instead of drywall for my backdrop. The main reason I decided to switch is because my daughter this week will paint it and I might want to keep the painting afterwards. Other reasons are that it's thinner than drywall, lighter, and less prone to crumbling.

I'll be purchasing 3 sheets of 4X8 at Home Depot tonight for starters. The question I have is: should I first lay down a coat of primer? I have lots of leftover drywall primer.

Thanks.

Dave Vergun