2341 jersey central help..

[Anonymous]

Hello, I would like some info on how to spot a repo 2341 shell. If anyone can help it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks [8D] Steve Prysok

[Chris F]

Steve,

Joe Algozzini listed some clues in his article in the Fall 1988 issue of CTT:
1. The most important indicator is that originals have heat-stamp lettering, so you should be able to see/feel the indentations in the lettering. Repros would be silk-screened or have dry-transfers.
2. Originals have the blue stripe below the headlight "scooped out", while repros are masked in a straight line.
3. Original "FM" decals have a white that is yellowed with age, and the red circle is perfectly centered to give an even border.
4. Original shells were blue plastic, not purple-blue or gray.

Keep in mind that this article was written over 15 years ago, so somebody may have found a way around these clues since then.[V]

[Anonymous]

Best to compare the photos in Greenberg to the suspect JC

If you note the lettering is a clue too, as well as what was stated above.


On the Real JC the "BLT 4-56 by Lionel" is off-centered to back of the engine.

The "JERSEY CENTRAL LINES" on both sides do not line up or are centered they are offset to the back of the engine too.

Alan

[lionel2341]

The spacing between "JERSEY CENTRAL" and "CENTRAL LINES'" is different on both sides. Repros are evenly spaced. Being a Collector of JC FM's I have not seen a repro that matches an Original, though it could be posible. I've always been able to spot a repro. I have a black repro Virginian in my collection that's so good it's hard to tell it from the real thing, you really need to read the history on how Lionel Made and painted the FM's. If you are in the market for a real FM, it's best to have someone from the TCA standards committee to give you some guidence. I've seen several "Newbie" collectors really get burned.

Ernie