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Darren (BLHS & CRRM Lifetime Member)
Delaware and Hudson Virtual Museum (DHVM), Railroad Adventures (RRAdventures)
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How did you install the square hole gear to your wheel (tools, etc..)? Also, did you press the axle on to the wheel before installing the gear?
Thanks
Mark
I agree with all. I think I used a small drill prior to using a puller. I think I got my puller from Jeff at Train Tender put I don't remember for sure. I know he has the replacement wheels and center gear. I replaced everything and used the oversized rollers. It runs like a top. Great job on the restoration.
Bob: Thanks for the part number, you've been a big help.
John C
The motor part number is SLS-248-8. It sold for $3.50 in 1933.
Bob Nelson
I am looking for the engine/ motor number for the No. 248, I can't find any on the engine its just says Lionel O gauge underneath. I saw a replacement motor on ebay but I am not sure if it fit. I need the part number.
Wow.
I'm just blown away by the expertise on the forum!
Ives Boy, at the risk of taking this thread off course, I have 20 or 30 (I haven't counted lately) pre war tin, mostly 4 wheel, freights, but only one (No4 Build-a-loco) engine. What would be a good and reasonable couple of engines I should look to purchase? I'm thinking Electric, not Steam.
runtime
A little timeline from memory...
The 248 was made from 1926-1932, with some leftover Ives bodied examples sold in uncatalogued sets in 33. The variations are as follows.
1926-Dark Green with maroon inserts. Nickel strap headlight.
1927-Orange with nickel strap headlight, peacock or brass inserts.
1928-Same as above with cast headlight.
1929-Orange or red, orange version had brass inserts, red had cream.
1930- Red only available. cream inserts.
1931- Same
1932- Same.
from 1929-32 Lionel used the 248 body on the Ives 3260/3261 locos. They had no handrails and different trim and frames. The reverse slot was in the roof on some models. Lionel used leftover Ives bodies on some Terra Cotta 248's. These are scarce.
Generally the early engines used spoked drivers, changing to discs around 1929.
The 248 was always catalogued with 529/530 629/630 pullmans, or 800 series four wheel freights. Any of these would look good with your loco.
The best restoration tip i can give you is buy the right paint. Cutting corners and using hardware store spray enamel will haunt you with a bad looking paint job for ever.
I can precisely date your engine with some pics, especially of the motor, brushplate side.
Good luck, and most of all enjoy it!
Jack,
Thanks ! The passenger cars in the picture are 1690's.They have that great tin sound when running. One came in a box with the 248 the other two were purchased on e bay. They are missing some handrails and are from the same era. Not bad for the age. The 1691, is an observation car but with luck I'll get one someday.
This 248 was originally red but because it was a tinplate I thought of going au natural. It does have a clear coat. The old paint was alligatored and needed removal. Those repro wheels did the trick, they add alot to the running engine sound. I'll search around for some more prework pictures.
Bob
Hey Bob.......thank you for the restoration pictures link! Sweet! I noticed the 248 you restored was originally red and you stripped it. Is the natural finish what the original 248 looked like? I notice your consist has red cars, can you share what these are......part of a set? Thanks.
Jack
IF IT WON'T COME LOOSE BY TAPPING ON IT, DON'T TRY TO FORCE IT. USE A BIGGER HAMMER.
Hi John!
I just finished one. You can check out my link. I would recommend that you replace all the wheels.Thrree out of four were bad on mine. I bought the set ,30 dollars is the going price. Ebay also has the complete attachment set, handrails,ladders,whistle,pantograph etc.
For wheel removal you have 3 choices. You can cut them off, not the geared wheels. Care should be used when removing the gears,they are stuck on. With a modified battery terminal puller you can pull them off or buy the train wheel puller tool. Last is the method I used fot my 2333. Find a piece of 1" metal strapping used used at warehouses and metal suppliers, minimum of 3 inches. Just groove it length wise to slide under the wheel around the axle. The ends are supported by the jaws of a vise and punch the axle out with a thin nail punch . The axle is 1/8".
I used an arbor press for installlation. I enlarged the wheel holes slightly with a 5/32 chain saw file favoring the inner wheel to help ease the axle in. By hand I used a 1/8 drill just to bevel the inner hole of the wheel. Lastly use a drop of oil. Cups are only need for complicated steamer wheels. You can use a soft piece of flashing with a hole in it. I didn't use anything but washers to line it up.
If you have more questions post me I can always post more pictures.
http://s498.photobucket.com/albums/rr341/Railroad-Rob/248/
I have one of these - much beloved - my dad had it restored at Madison Hardware back in the 80s. Good luck!
Doug Murphy 'We few, we happy few, we band of brothers...' Henry V.
Olsen's shows the wheel as part # SLS-35, but those two wheels are the non-geared ones. The two gear wheels are part # SLS-37. A Google search will bring up parts suppliers.
Getting the old wheels off is not that problematic, but pressing the new ones on is a critical operation best done with an arbor press & wheel cups. It can be done with a vise/clamp/blocks, but it's not for the faint of heart.
Rob
I need to replace 2 of the 4 wheels that have deteriorated. Any tips on how to take the old wheels off and replace them? I am looking for a parts list and or drawing. Any help or tips would be appreciated.
JohnC
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