lionel2 wrote:i added a 2nd lockon, all is good now!!
Perfect.....now get on that Berk cow catcher/track clearance issue in your other thread. No rest for the wicked!
Jack
IF IT WON'T COME LOOSE BY TAPPING ON IT, DON'T TRY TO FORCE IT. USE A BIGGER HAMMER.
Bob Nelson
lionel2 wrote:Yeah, i think i found the problem, i got one switch working fine now. The other still gets hot. It's the 2 switches closest to the lockon. I only have 1 lockon per line. You think i should add another lockon on the other end of the layout?? thanks.
At LEAST 1 more. As needed.
Rob
lionel2 wrote:well...i tried just one lockon, it works great!! prolley because of the power of my Z's. I got all 4 of my transformers running for my layout, i have 20 accessories hooked up to my 4 transformers. Just 2 or 3 accessories per posts.
I just saw this in your other post.
You need a lot more than 1 lockon if you have 12 022 switches on your layout powered with a Z transformer - this is(part of) your problem, in addition to the internal switch connections.
I doubt it's a short circuit situation. You probably need more power feeds around your layout, as there is too much power being transmitted to the load(the train, or track/switches/accessories beyond the offending switch) through the internal center rail crimped/soldered connections on the underside of the switches(they do sometimes loosen up over time - vibration, moving, handling, cold solder joints, eg.). Fortunately, you can easily disassemble the 022's to effect the repair if you desire, something quite difficult to do with the 1121/1122/1122E O-27 types.
Otherwise, just make sure there is a lockon or power feed within 2-3 track joints of each of the 3 legs of the switch. This should alleviate any hot spots.
Our community is FREE to join. To participate you must either login or register for an account.
Get the Classic Toy Trains newsletter delivered to your inbox twice a month