Smoothing out track connections?

[Anonymous]

I have a few spots on my layout where the tracks connect and their is about a 1/8" gap between the tracks. Some of the smaller engines hit it pretty loud and hard. I have tightened the track as tightly as I can get it, but am still afraid of a derailment with some of my smaller engines (That's bad as I just buit a shelf layout!) Can anyone recommend a solution besides solder to fill in these small 1/8" gaps in two spots? Glue? Duct tape?

[jkerklo]

First fix is to use a longer track section.

When other methods are undesirable, I use a piece of telescoping brass tubing slipped over the track pins. This works with tubular track, but not with gargraves.

Most hobby stores have a rack of this tubing. Take a track pin and get a size that just fits over the pin.

Cut the tubing with a knife blade. Put the tubing on the workbench, position the blade where you want to cut it, press down on the blade and roll it back and forth until the tubing breaks. Ream out the burr and put it on the track. Do all three rails.


John Kerklo
TCA 94-38455
www.Three-Rail.com

[Anonymous]

John,

Thanks, that may work. The gap is so small, and since I already have the track laid, and wired and its 7 feet up on a wall, I am looking for something a bit easier. THis sounds like it will work.

[lionelsoni]

I suppose you could also make a very short section of rail to put the track pin through.
This might not be as hard as it seems, if you use the technique that I do to cut track:

I cut the rail head and web with tinsnips, then flex the track until the flanges break. In this case, you would want to cut the flanges also or just cut through the web and discard the lower half of the rail segment. After cutting, flatten the crease that you have made in the rail head and re-form the rail around a loose track pin, then put it into the gap in the track, instead of the brass tubing.

This might give you a better fit to the adjoining track, since it has the exact same thickness and radius. It also might not be too hard to put it in place without taking up the track: Just spread it enough to get it over the track pin, but upside down, so that you can easily squeeze it back around the pin from the top, then swing it down into place.

[Roger Bielen]

Since it seems that your layout is permanent you could try filling the gap with one of the putty type epoxies with a long enough working life to let you mold it to the conture of the rail.

[jkerklo]

I like lionelsoni's idea. A very short section of track.

I am not that good with tin snips, however. I would use a Dremel and a cut-off wheel.

John Kerklo
TCA 94-38455
www.Three-Rail.com