PW 610 switcher runs well in reverse, but not forward.

[steve24944]

I have the same Erie 610 switcher.  Runs fine forwards or reverse with no cars, but add cars to the train and she does not run well in reverse when going through curves and or switches.  Going forward runs fine with a train coupled to her.  I need to study the other posts to see if any one has a good fix.

[ADCX Rob]

servoguy

I have a quicker and easier fix:  Using a pair of needle nose pliers...(snip)

Bruce Baker

That essentially mirrors the Lionel fix(recommended before the invention of Eastman 910).

I switched to the super glue method as it is non-destructive and when done carefully is invisible.  It's also permanent until you want to take it apart - if ever.  The excellent tensile strength and poor shear strength of CA makes it durable yet easy to reverse if ever needed, protecting further any collector value.

Rob

[Warburton]

The easiest fix is to just run it in reverse -- happens all the time in train yards!

[servoguy]

BTW,  don't do this fix unless the plastic housing is loose.  If the housing is tight, look for the problem somewhere else.  

Bruce Baker

[servoguy]

I have a quicker and easier fix:  Using a pair of needle nose pliers, with one of the jaws one one side of the axle and the other jaw on the other side of the axle, twist the pliers to bend the aluminum plate slightly so it is tight against the plastic lower housing.  I did a 44 ton GE switcher 35 years ago, and it still works just fine.  All done in 5 minutes or less.  You need to do the bending at 4 locations.  

Bruce Baker

[ADCX Rob]

So,  how did it all work out?

Rob

[Rickster]

Thanks!

Rickster

[Rickster]

Thanks folks!

Rickster

[ADCX Rob]

The problem is the lower bearing plate is floating in the stamped aluminum motor side frames as the factory staking has worked loose over the years.  The old Lionel fix for this was to "dent" the side frames with a punch, some shops used cardstock jammed in to firm up the plate.

I have had good luck using tiny black anodized self-tapping screws into drilled pilot holes to hold the bearing in place.

For a non-destructive fix, my latest method, though, beats them all.  Using the CRC QD or any non-residue contact cleaner, clean ALL oil & residue from between the sideframes & the bearing, using the nozzle to spray into the crevice.  Dry it out well, several hours or overnight.

Now use the regular "thin"(not gel) CA adhesive("Super Glue", Eastman 910, etc.) and flow the cement into the crevice on both sides, letting it creep in by capillary action to fill the gap.

In about 10 minutes, the loco is ready to be lubed(grease on gears, oil on pivots & bearings/axles) and will run like new. 

Rob

[aurora351]

I have a 218 Sante Fe alco that had the same symptoms. I sure as heck didn't beat on the bottom bearing plate with a hammer and punch like the Greensburg book shows. Try new brushes and check the brush spring tension. Worked for me.

[Rickster]

I picked up a Post-War Erie 610 Switcher last year as a fixer upper.  I did a number of repairs and cleaned and lubed it thoroughly, but it only runs well in reverse.  I've read some past posts about the plate at the bottom of the motor becoming lose and various suggestions about how to tighten that up.  I am wondering though before taking those measures, should I just replace the ball bearing in the plate and the thrust washer on the commutator side of the motor?  I just am worried about damaging the motor with more drastic measures.

 As always, I appreciate your feedback.

 

Rickster in Minnesota