Wire attatchment to gargraves track.

[jd-train]

I've been using quite a few of these male disconnects on my layout:

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You can both hear and feel these click securely into place when you push them into the underside of the rail.

I use them to power the center rail and as a connection for the common return.  They also work equally well on my gargraves track and my ross switches.

Jim

[RockIsland52]

Steve, no pressure intended.

In the future you'll really appreciate having for yourself the before and during and after photos of your masterpiece in development......especially when you get discouraged with some temporary setback and then realize just how far you've come.  From a self serving perspective,  we on this Forum are voyeurs and layout addicts and appreciate your progress, especially those of us who are without a layout.

Jack

[sarpilot]

Hey rock island,

Wish I had a digital camera. The only way I have to put pictures on the net is to take some snapshots and then scan them. Ill try to do it if I get the chance.

STEVE 

[RockIsland52]

........ Can't believe the layout is coming along so fast. Seems like just yesterday I bought the lumber for the platform. That was 3 weeks ago. Thanks for the help.

STEVE

Steve, have you been taking pictures of your progress?  I've been of and on the Forum and may have missed them.  Thanks.  Jack.  

[GregM]

It isn't necessary to use spade lugs or solder the wires to Gargraves track.  Just remove the insulation from 1.5 to 2" of wire.  Solder the exposed wire only.  Once the solder cools, bend the wire just enough to have some resistance when it is inserted into the rail at the end of a track section.  I used this technique and never had any problems.

[sarpilot]

Well Bob, I guess I will use white for the common ground then. Will use black for the power leads from each block back to the ATLAS 215 selector switches. I'll try a different color for each of the other circuts. Looks like I'll be ready to hook up the TMCC and PM-1s as soon as they come in. They are on order now. Can't believe the layout is coming along so fast. Seems like just yesterday I bought the lumber for the platform. That was 3 weeks ago. Thanks for the help.

STEVE

[lionelsoni]

I use white for my grounded common since the NEC requires that for a grounded conductor and I'm used to it.

Be sure you use wire heavy enough for the overcurrent protection that you are using, or even for the greatest that you think you will ever use.  That probably means AWG14, which is good for up to 15 amperes and readily available solid or stranded as building wire.

I solder my feeders to the side of the rail (the least visible side) so that I can easily unsolder them in place.  Another approach is to solder a pigtail to the bottom of the rail before putting the track down, then attach it to a longer wire under the table.

It is safe to use a couple of inches of smaller wire (2 or maybe 4 AWG sizes) for a less visible attachment to the track.  The additional resistance is tiny; and the heat is adequately absorbed by the larger mass of the track and the main wire.

A male Fast-on lug is an alternative to a spade lug.

[sarpilot]

Thanks guys, Looks like this will be easier than I thought. Speaking of thoughts, Any ideas on wire color coding. I have 6 circuts, 5 variable AC and 1 fixed DC. Thought I would use a common ground with terminal strips.

STEVE

[sir james I]

I agree with all the above, no soldering to track needed. Remember the marx lockon was like that for all the years they made trains. and they too will work with GG track.

[bfskinner]

Dennis is probably right. After all, the tabs that GarGraves uses are generally simply shoved into the rail and not soldered. I, however, am a belt-and-suspenders kind of person and I love soldered connections. If you do solder, and you have the type of GarGraves track with plastic cross-ties, be careful not to melt them.

There are reams of articles about flux and soldering on the internet, but as a general rule ROSIN core solder is correct for electrical and electronic work. I sometimes use a little abrasive paper to sand any oxidation from the parts to be joined, and give a final wipe-down with a little rosin solder paste on a Q-tip to give the materials a good cleaning. I realize that I tend to be a tad compulsive/obsessive, but I have never had a solder joint fail. I am not bothered by  tigers roaming around my yard either.

[DennisB-1]

It's not necessary to solder the spade lugs after inserting into the rails. I've used this method for more than twenty years without any wiring problems.

[sarpilot]

Thanks BF.

I just thought it would be a little more solid if soldered the spade lug after it was jammed in the rails. Understand I have to use rosin core not acid core solder Right?

STEVE

[bfskinner]

sarpilot, (Steve)

That will work. Or you can jam the spade lugs in and then solder them. But why go to the trouble of attaching spade lugs at all, if you are going for permanence, more or less? I would simply solder the wires directly to the rails....

[sarpilot]

Anyone know the best way to permenatly attatch wire to gargraves beside those flimsy metal tabs they sell. I was thinking about attatching spade lugs to the wire and then soldering it to the bottom of the rails. Right now I have the spade lugs just jammed in the rail from the bottom. Any ideas?

 STEVE