88 - Ain't never been to the Upper Marlboro show. Saving my pennies for YORK. Say "hi" toTom while you're there. Worked on the 45 degree crossing a little, routing out some flange-ways with a dremel disc. Chessie steamer chugs right thru with 5 coaches at 16 volts. Need to get back to work on next ridge (Haystack Mountain), and saying goodbye to Point of Rocks Station.
dbaker48 - Raw deal on those race tix. You Ceritos guys are having a time of it this week with NASCAR.
anjdevil - Pics of C&O please.
ChiefEagles wrote: jefelectric wrote: Buckeye Riveter wrote: lionroar88 wrote:I need to widen a Lionel Die-Cast girder bridge, but don't know the best way to do it. Should I cut the sheet metal plate and then weld them back together with a joiner piece, or just order new sheet metal the width I need, then use the existing plate to mark and drill the holes for the screws.What thickness sheet metal do I need? I know the width and length.Brent....If you are using a track with a pre-installed roadbed such as Fastrack you could use a thin piece of plastic in place of the sheet metal. Glue the Fastrack continuously to the plastic to provide stiffness. If there is a track joint on the bridge reinforce it so not to bend. To add to the affect, glue some I shaped plastic pieces to the bottom of the plastic to look like the cross beams. Buckeye, I hope you don't specify plastic for the bridges you design. John, plastic is standard Ohizo engineering. Especially if you graduated from OSU.
jefelectric wrote: Buckeye Riveter wrote: lionroar88 wrote:I need to widen a Lionel Die-Cast girder bridge, but don't know the best way to do it. Should I cut the sheet metal plate and then weld them back together with a joiner piece, or just order new sheet metal the width I need, then use the existing plate to mark and drill the holes for the screws.What thickness sheet metal do I need? I know the width and length.Brent....If you are using a track with a pre-installed roadbed such as Fastrack you could use a thin piece of plastic in place of the sheet metal. Glue the Fastrack continuously to the plastic to provide stiffness. If there is a track joint on the bridge reinforce it so not to bend. To add to the affect, glue some I shaped plastic pieces to the bottom of the plastic to look like the cross beams. Buckeye, I hope you don't specify plastic for the bridges you design.
Buckeye Riveter wrote: lionroar88 wrote:I need to widen a Lionel Die-Cast girder bridge, but don't know the best way to do it. Should I cut the sheet metal plate and then weld them back together with a joiner piece, or just order new sheet metal the width I need, then use the existing plate to mark and drill the holes for the screws.What thickness sheet metal do I need? I know the width and length.Brent....If you are using a track with a pre-installed roadbed such as Fastrack you could use a thin piece of plastic in place of the sheet metal. Glue the Fastrack continuously to the plastic to provide stiffness. If there is a track joint on the bridge reinforce it so not to bend. To add to the affect, glue some I shaped plastic pieces to the bottom of the plastic to look like the cross beams.
lionroar88 wrote:I need to widen a Lionel Die-Cast girder bridge, but don't know the best way to do it. Should I cut the sheet metal plate and then weld them back together with a joiner piece, or just order new sheet metal the width I need, then use the existing plate to mark and drill the holes for the screws.What thickness sheet metal do I need? I know the width and length.
Brent....If you are using a track with a pre-installed roadbed such as Fastrack you could use a thin piece of plastic in place of the sheet metal. Glue the Fastrack continuously to the plastic to provide stiffness. If there is a track joint on the bridge reinforce it so not to bend. To add to the affect, glue some I shaped plastic pieces to the bottom of the plastic to look like the cross beams.
Buckeye, I hope you don't specify plastic for the bridges you design.
John, plastic is standard Ohizo engineering. Especially if you graduated from OSU.
Well if you guys would have taken Bridge Engineering 101 you would know that we are building bridges from composite lightweight materials very similar to "plastics" Wright Patterson Air force Base in Dayton, Ohio is one of the leaders in composites. There are several plastic bridges in use today that are being monitored by the Feds for durability under load.
Chief, FYI, I have never taken a course at OSU.
Celebrating 18 years on the CTT Forum.
Buckeye Riveter......... OTTS Charter Member, a Roseyville Raider and a member of the CTT Forum since 2004..
Jelloway Creek, OH - ELV 1,100 - Home of the Baltimore, Ohio & Wabash RR
TCA 09-64284
jefelectric wrote: Buckeye Riveter wrote: lionroar88 wrote:I need to widen a Lionel Die-Cast girder bridge, but don't know the best way to do it. Should I cut the sheet metal plate and then weld them back together with a joiner piece, or just order new sheet metal the width I need, then use the existing plate to mark and drill the holes for the screws.What thickness sheet metal do I need? I know the width and length.Brent....If you are using a track with a pre-installed roadbed such as Fastrack you could use a thin piece of plastic in place of the sheet metal. Glue the Fastrack continueously to the plastic to provide stiffness. If there is a track joint on the bridge reinforce it so not to bend. To add to the affect, glue some I shaped plastic pieces to the bottom of the plastic to look like the cross beams. Buckeye, I hope you don't specify plastic for the bridges you design.
Buckeye Riveter wrote: lionroar88 wrote:I need to widen a Lionel Die-Cast girder bridge, but don't know the best way to do it. Should I cut the sheet metal plate and then weld them back together with a joiner piece, or just order new sheet metal the width I need, then use the existing plate to mark and drill the holes for the screws.What thickness sheet metal do I need? I know the width and length.Brent....If you are using a track with a pre-installed roadbed such as Fastrack you could use a thin piece of plastic in place of the sheet metal. Glue the Fastrack continueously to the plastic to provide stiffness. If there is a track joint on the bridge reinforce it so not to bend. To add to the affect, glue some I shaped plastic pieces to the bottom of the plastic to look like the cross beams.
Brent....If you are using a track with a pre-installed roadbed such as Fastrack you could use a thin piece of plastic in place of the sheet metal. Glue the Fastrack continueously to the plastic to provide stiffness. If there is a track joint on the bridge reinforce it so not to bend. To add to the affect, glue some I shaped plastic pieces to the bottom of the plastic to look like the cross beams.
God bless TCA 05-58541 Benefactor Member of the NRA, Member of the American Legion, Retired Boss Hog of Roseyville , KC&D Qualified
lionroar88 wrote:Thanks for the ideas guys!Buckeye - Not using FasTrack or RealTrax... use Atlas.I was thinking on this last night and found some old 1/4" oak planks I was planning to use on another project, so I think what I'm going to do is cut some oak planks, glue them together, and then paint flat black. Then I'll cut the sheet metal base of the girder bridge and attach that to the top of the oak plank. Then get some of the plastruc steel angles and attach them to the edge of the oak plank and bottom of the steel girder base. Paint all that flat black and then weather with some burnt sienna...Probably do something similiar with the girder bridge I need for the other side, but that I am going to use some aluminum corners I have left over from the bathroom remodel (they came with the shower door and weren't needed).Also going to paint the arch-under bridges the same as the girder bridges, flat black with burnt sienna highlights...
Thanks for the ideas guys!Buckeye - Not using FasTrack or RealTrax... use Atlas.I was thinking on this last night and found some old 1/4" oak planks I was planning to use on another project, so I think what I'm going to do is cut some oak planks, glue them together, and then paint flat black. Then I'll cut the sheet metal base of the girder bridge and attach that to the top of the oak plank. Then get some of the plastruc steel angles and attach them to the edge of the oak plank and bottom of the steel girder base. Paint all that flat black and then weather with some burnt sienna...Probably do something similiar with the girder bridge I need for the other side, but that I am going to use some aluminum corners I have left over from the bathroom remodel (they came with the shower door and weren't needed).Also going to paint the arch-under bridges the same as the girder bridges, flat black with burnt sienna highlights...
Wicked good ideas, Brent!
Jim
Modeling the Baltimore waterfront in HO scale
Jim,Thanks for the tip, having built furniture before I know what you are referring to.The oak has been in storage for about 5 years now, so if it hasn't warped yet I doubt it is going to, plus it has the added benefit of being free.I could show you some ply that I have had in my garage for about 3 months that I could use for a nice scale ski jump scene!
fifedog wrote: Will this particular bridge be close to the viewer, or in the background?If viewer can see up close, take a 1/2 inch piece of plywood to needed width, rout out cross members, paint flat black, plop girder sides on, voila!If in background, simply cut 1/2 inch piece of plywood to needed width, paint flat black, plop girder sides on, voila!
Will this particular bridge be close to the viewer, or in the background?
If viewer can see up close, take a 1/2 inch piece of plywood to needed width, rout out cross members, paint flat black, plop girder sides on, voila!
If in background, simply cut 1/2 inch piece of plywood to needed width, paint flat black, plop girder sides on, voila!
I like fife's suggestion. I have some aluminum I used to rig boats several years ago. I use it a lot. Easy to cut with jig saw and right blades.
The bridge in the photo below is a very cheap Plasticville model. I added a 1/4" thick strip of wood underneath it for strength. It's perfectly hidden from view. The boy's suggestions are the way to go. Wood is quieter than metal anyway.
Regards, Roy
Just out of curiosity. What is the best way to cut it?
Regards,
John
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