"No childhood should be without a train!"
Yes, unfortunately there is no tender, however I do have the diecast Railsounds Tender issued back in the mid 90's - which is a twelve wheeler, and it indeed looks fantastic behind this 726. I had this but with no larger steamer, used it behind a pacific, the tender looked tool long. Matching this to the 726, at least operationally looks pretty. I was thinking $200 tops, so it looks like I'm not too far out on a limb...Thanks for the tips..Jumijo and Mike.
I'll second Jumijo's opinion of the two as well as his assessment of the price point. My 736 can pull a ton. If you are so inclined, good luck finding a 2426 to go with the 726. I've seen them sell for almost the same price as the 726 itself.
Just my two cents.
Mike
I wouldn't pay more than $150 - $200 tops for a 726 without a matching tender. The 2426 tenders that came with the 726 were the top of the line for it's time, and add quite a bit to the price of the 726.
The 726 has better looking drive wheels, and is a smooth runner, but doesn't have the benefit of Magnatraction. The 736 does have magnatraction. My 736 pulls very well. You really can't go wrong with either post war Berk. But try to find a matching tender for the 726.
Jim
Modeling the Baltimore waterfront in HO scale
ADCX Rob wrote: lionroar88 wrote:never had problems with my 2020 or 681 on O-27 tubes... kehoesj wrote:I am inclined to stay with Lionel offerings, but wish to avoid the Pennsy turbine.
lionroar88 wrote:never had problems with my 2020 or 681 on O-27 tubes...
kehoesj wrote:I am inclined to stay with Lionel offerings, but wish to avoid the Pennsy turbine.
Hmmm,
For Postwar, I'd say go with a 736 berkshire. For MPC, the only Mike that would be fit for an 0-27 layout that I know of was the Southern 4501 from the Southern F.A.R.R. set, which was essentially a 736 as a 2-8-2.
Now for a really modern engine, I have heard great things about Lionel's new traditional 2-8-2's. I'd go with one of them.
Cheese
Nick! :)
Rob
Dave
It's a TOY, A child's PLAYTHING!!! (Woody from Toy Story)
USNRol wrote: ADCX Rob wrote: The PE Berk does not run well on O-27.Rob I guess you're right I did have problems with arcing and stalling at first with my PE Berk but here's how I fixed this.Refer to this thread for complete story. http://www.trains.com/trccs/forums/1053983/ShowPost.aspx Roland
ADCX Rob wrote: The PE Berk does not run well on O-27.
Rob I guess you're right I did have problems with arcing and stalling at first with my PE Berk but here's how I fixed this.
Refer to this thread for complete story. http://www.trains.com/trccs/forums/1053983/ShowPost.aspx
Roland
The postwar big Berks have no problems with O-27 curves.
traindaddy1 wrote:Hi! Not sure this is what you mean........I have the 2-8-4 Polar Express (Berkshire)engine and am very pleased with its performance.
FOLLOW-UP: I guess, in my "older" age, I don't read very well. I missed the switch part of the question. My PE engine runs on a O27 - 42" line without a switch. SORRY
USNRol wrote: I had a similar problem running my Polar Express Berkshire through 027 lionel switches. I found that either the non-flanged drivers would short to the fat middle rail at the red arrow (when on the turn-out) or the wide collectors on this loco would short to the corners of the swivel rails at the blue (out)and green (through) locations. I fixed this by placing small pieces of scotch tape (only a temporary Christmas layout) on just the locations mentioned to stop this. These problems should be less pronounced on your 042 switches, but I would not be surprised if this is affects those switches as well. I do not believe your control rails have anything to do with your problem.There are other locomotives with gearing just inboard of the wheel flanges that will almost always contact the fat center rail on any lionel 027 switch shorting the track. CW-80: Has very low tolerance for any shorts or sparking anywhere on your track. The overload protection circuitry is very fast acting I've found compared to my PW V model which you could arc-weld with before the short circuit protect feature activates.Hope this helps,Roland
I had a similar problem running my Polar Express Berkshire through 027 lionel switches.
I found that either the non-flanged drivers would short to the fat middle rail at the red arrow (when on the turn-out) or the wide collectors on this loco would short to the corners of the swivel rails at the blue (out)and green (through) locations. I fixed this by placing small pieces of scotch tape (only a temporary Christmas layout) on just the locations mentioned to stop this. These problems should be less pronounced on your 042 switches, but I would not be surprised if this is affects those switches as well. I do not believe your control rails have anything to do with your problem.
There are other locomotives with gearing just inboard of the wheel flanges that will almost always contact the fat center rail on any lionel 027 switch shorting the track.
CW-80: Has very low tolerance for any shorts or sparking anywhere on your track. The overload protection circuitry is very fast acting I've found compared to my PW V model which you could arc-weld with before the short circuit protect feature activates.
Hope this helps,
I would go with the PW 736. Has magnatraction and pulls like a mule. Here's a pic of mine
The PE Berk does not run well on O-27.
The postwar & MPC/LTI berks are better, I've never had a problem with any... some say the eccentric crank might hit the switch motors but I've never noticed it.
I would second the PE Berkshire although it's not PW or MPC era. However it does do alright on 027 track and switches.
The Post War Berks 726/736 (Pictured below) may also be good choices although I cannot attest to their compatability with 027 switches and track.
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