Loose E-unit lever?

[fisherdoc]

Greetings: I think I found teh cure for this once and for all. My e unit lever was so loose it was just flopping around. I put a fewdrops of super glue right on the damn rivet and moved it around to make sure it soaked inbehind tthe rivet and washer. I moved it every few minutes as it dried so it won't dry in place. Then I added another few drops. I did this like 3 - 4 times and when it finally dried it is as stiff as can be now like new! I had another not quite as loose and it took only 2 teatments of the glue. Just jeep it moving and then let it finally dry completely and then move it and it will be perfect. Hope this helps this is an old thread that I found seeking a solution. Just remember to kepp it moving until it is just about dry it will take time be patient. 

cwburfle

This is indeed a very old thread. I picked up a new trick since my previous comment. It is very similar to the technique posted by 3railguy. Here goes:

You can slip an open horse shoe washer between the fiber plate and the metal e-unit frame. Push it in from the top so the legs straddle the rivet that holds everything together.
Some folks put the washer between the spring tension washer and the e-unit lever.

 

cwburfle

This is indeed a very old thread. I picked up a new trick since my previous comment. It is very similar to the technique posted by 3railguy. Here goes:

You can slip an open horse shoe washer between the fiber plate and the metal e-unit frame. Push it in from the top so the legs straddle the rivet that holds everything together.
Some folks put the washer between the spring tension washer and the e-unit lever.

 

[cwburfle]

This is indeed a very old thread. I picked up a new trick since my previous comment. It is very similar to the technique posted by 3railguy. Here goes:

You can slip an open horse shoe washer between the fiber plate and the metal e-unit frame. Push it in from the top so the legs straddle the rivet that holds everything together.
Some folks put the washer between the spring tension washer and the e-unit lever.

[AirMojo]

I know this is an old post, but... this is just what I did to "tighten" the lever on my 2026 e-unit.

I first tried to tap the rivet, but that didn't work... decided to see what solutions were on the internet, and found this thread.

But before I got all the way through the posts, I decided to try and bend the lever in to make better contact, and I did just what Bob suggested using needle-nose pliers.

I was going to post my solution, but it was already there !

 

lionelsoni

Move the handle to the side, about 90 degrees from where it normally is.  (You may have to remove the e-unit to do this, depending on the locomotive.)  The short arm of the L-shaped handle, with the dimple on it, should then be clear of the insulating board.  Bend it toward the body of the e-unit, so that, when it comes back over the board, its dimpled tip is closer to the board and presses tightly against the contact on the board.

 

[msacco]

 

 

   Tried the bending thing first, it wasnt having that. Anyway i was able to fix it by detaching the front of the e-unit, and crimping it tight with a pair of needle nose. It now goes around the layout and after a cleaning and lube runs like new. Still not quite like a prewar though.
 

 

This is how I do it. It doesn't give it a nice look but the needle nose method has worked for me for years.

 

Mike S.

[Anonymous]

use one of those automatic center punches rather than a hammer. you wont need a third hand to hold the screwdriver

[rlplionel]

Glad you got it fixed. The last time I had a loose E-unit lever, I did a low-tech fix. I stuffed a small piece of cardboard between the lever and the backing. The repair sufficed for me since I never move the E-unit lever, unless there is a problem with the locomotive.

[sulafool]

Slight variation on the screwdriver plan; use an old butter knife for an anvil

[ivesboy]

 

 

   Tried the bending thing first, it wasnt having that. Anyway i was able to fix it by detaching the front of the e-unit, and crimping it tight with a pair of needle nose. It now goes around the layout and after a cleaning and lube runs like new. Still not quite like a prewar though.
 

[lionelsoni]

Move the handle to the side, about 90 degrees from where it normally is.  (You may have to remove the e-unit to do this, depending on the locomotive.)  The short arm of the L-shaped handle, with the dimple on it, should then be clear of the insulating board.  Bend it toward the body of the e-unit, so that, when it comes back over the board, its dimpled tip is closer to the board and presses tightly against the contact on the board.

[kpolak]

Kurt (kpolak)

You asked:

         Can you recommend a supplier of the electonic e-units?

Yes, if you will send me a big corned-beef sandwich from Zingerman's!   Now, where's my lunch?

Done.  I'm keeping the pickle.  It won't travel well.  That's one of my favorite CB sandwiches. 

Kurt

[dsmith]

I use the screwdriver method.  Insert a small flatblade screwdriver behind the rivet and tap the rivet with a hammer.  Try to hold onto the screwdriver tightly so that the impact is felt through the screwdriver and not the e-unit.  The soft rivet doesn't need much of a hit to tighten it.  I have used this successfully on several e-units.

[bfskinner]

Kurt (kpolak)

You asked:

         Can you recommend a supplier of the electonic e-units?

Yes, if you will send me a big corned-beef sandwich from Zingerman's!

Some years ago I began with QSI of Beaverton, Oregon and never found any reason to change. In addition to  ruggedness and reliability, the size of their ACRU-E is virtually identical with that of Lionel's mechanical e-units, so they fit into the existing space quite well indeed.

Not too long ago, QSI apparently decided to concentrate on products for HO-gauge trains. They contracted with an "authorized representative supplier" for sales and service of their O-gauge products. Per agreement with this representative I may not post the specifics online. However, you can find the information necessary to contact them with serious inquiries with the info cleverly hidden beneath the second red caption 3/4 of the way down the home page at the QSI website. I bought several items about a year ago, and this arrangement still stands as far as I know.

             http://www.qsindustries.com/

Note: when I get an ACRU-E wired and tested, I wrap (encapsulate, really) the device in a layer or two of black plastic electricians' tape. Have never had a short circuit.

Now, where's my lunch?

[kpolak]

3. Replace the e-unit with an electronic one.

BF:  Can you recommend a supplier of the electonic e-units?

Thanks,

Kurt

[ivesboy]

 

 

    Well, i will probably try the second option of using the screwdriver, if not maybe ill just solder it or bypass it. The engine will be just a runner, its fairly rough but im not a stickler for condition. (When you spend years hording 90 year old trains, youd only have 2 if you required boxed pieces!) Thanks for all your help. 

[3railguy]

I've had good luck shimming the lever using a #6 or #8 spade connector (depending on thickness you need. It is very easy to do. I cut off the crimp end and insert the forked end over the E unit lever pin between the lever and body with a jewlers screwdriver. You can get variety packs of spade connectors at Radio Shack. This method has worked well for me and as long as the shims fit tightly, they don't work loose.

[bfskinner]

ivesboy,

I use one of three methods to deal with your problem which I've encountered a number of times and have never been able to repair successfully:

1. Solder the lever in the "on" position, such that the unit resumes cycling reliably through F-N-R-N-F. Of course, you lose the ability to lock the loco into Forward.

2. Replace the e-unit with another electro-mechanical one.

3. Replace the e-unit with an electronic one.

As I am a runner rather than a collector, I prefer solution three. Electronic e-units are one of my very few concessions to the newfangled train electronics. They are quiet (no buzz), reliable, and get rid of the unsightly lever. I generally camouflage the empty slot to finish the job.

[Anonymous]

What I do is wedge a flat blade screwdriver between the coil and eyelet, then use a center punch to tighten the eyelet.  The screwdriver acts as the anvil.

[cwburfle]

In order to tighten the e-unit lever by centerpunching the eyelet, you would need to find a way to get something behind the rivet to back it up. otherwise the centerpunch will have the opposite effect, loosening the eyelet.

Hobby Horse announced a tool that was specifically designed to tighten the lever without dis-assembling the e-unit, but as far as I know, the tool was never released, so I assume they hit some problems.

When I have to tighten a lever, I disassemble the upper section of the e-unit, and replace the eyelet. Once the e-unit is apart, anvils to make this repair are available for about $15. I do not use the copper eyelets that almost every parts dealer sells. I think they are too soft. They stretch after a while, leaving you with a loose e-unit lever. I use brass eyelets of a suitable size. I have yet to have a brass one loosen.

 I'd love to see some tips on better / easier ways to address this problem

[ivesboy]

 

  I have an engine with a loose e-unit lever. What i mean by this, is it wont maintain contact, it just kinda flops around in there. Any tips on how to fix this? If it matters the loco in question is a 2035. It appears that the fiber backing may have warped a little. Can i centerpunch the rivet holding the lever on? I felt it may damage the coil?