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Layout Help - Newbie

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Layout Help - Newbie
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, January 2, 2004 1:57 PM
I new at this but exited about it! All my engines are MTH Proto-Sound 2 and I will be using the new MTH DCS System to control engines and accessories.

So I am thinking to start creating a Layout, the problem that I have is that I don’t want to create one that will be permanent. I want to bill it in modules so if I move, I can disassemble it and take it with me.

I am thinking to create each module 4'x4' and keep adding as I need.
I will like to know:

1. The perfect high for the layout
2. How to join the modules (Specific: tacks)
3. Wiring Ideas

Any Input will help!

Thanks!
  • Member since
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Posted by turbine682 on Friday, January 2, 2004 3:00 PM
I can understand your excitement with new engines, etc.

First, do you have an overall layout plan? You really can't run much in a single 4 X 4 area unless you intend to revise the track plan (e.g., lengthen straights, remove curves, add switches, etc.)

Perfect layout heighth: dependent upon how tall you are: You should consider running your trains while standing so just extend your arm and see what is within easy reach above and below. FYI, trains always look better the closer to eye level.

Module connection: You can check out how N-trak (This is N Scale) modules and built and connected. Most of these modules are connected using C-clamps, but there are other methods It is important to make sure that the modules are level at the connection points so you should add adjustable levelers (screw-type) to the bottoms of your table legs.

Wiring: Don't know specifics as I've only worked with Cab Control (conventional) on 2-rail N-Scale. I would purchase a reference book specific to 3-rail wiring. I don't have any DCS or digital (won't convert huge N-scale roster and am running Post-war Lionel)

Hope this helps - have fun!
Pennsy's Q2's rock and so do C & O's H6's & 8's but the best is NYC's J3a's
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  • From: Austin, TX
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Posted by lionelsoni on Friday, January 2, 2004 3:09 PM
Height is a very subjective dimension. Lower is easier for kids to see; higher is easier to work under, put furniture under, and duck under. Mine is 45 inches, a little higher than I would otherwise want, so that I can get bookcases, cabinets, desk, and workbench under it.

The problem with uniform modules is that they are difficult to put together in different arrangements unless you make the edges match from one side to the other. So, if your next house has a differently shaped space, you might be unable to reassemble the layout.

I built my layout as four more-or-less triangular modules to fit in the corners of the room. They are connected by narrower straight sections, including the ladder tracks of a yard along one wall--no switches. When I moved, I just rebuilt the straight parts to join up the corner modules to fit the new room.

Bob Nelson

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Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, January 4, 2004 9:03 AM
Thanks for your inputs!
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Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, January 4, 2004 12:34 PM
Check out http://www.thortrains.net/

Bill
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another place to look
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, January 5, 2004 9:09 AM
You also might want to take a look at the modular timplate O guage people out there. One in my area (mid atlantic) would be http://www.trainweb.org/NationalCapitalTrackers/NCTHome.html

That might make a good starting off point for your own modular ideas

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