2343 Questions

[Anonymous]

I finally got my set of 2343s.  They run well, but I am going to teake them apart to clean and lube them.  There are some cosmetic issues.  The unpowered unit has a massive spot of paint wear, and there is a bit of corrosion on the bottom of the powered unit frame (to the right of my thumb), can I neutralize it?

[FEClionel]

Jim

Congrats - These are my favorite type of Postwar engines to buy - this condition and model! Something about a well loved and worn set of postwar that make you want to rebuild and save them from destruction or disposal. I had a set like these and had shells and framesrepainted and repaired. I neutralized the battery acid damage in a bucket of water and baking soda. After drying for a day I took a dremil and ground down the corrosion area and filled it with auto body filler. Sanded the filler and repainted the chassis - they lost some on the original stamping from factory but these were not collectors to start so it was a fair restoration. Restore the hardware and repaint the shells and frames and you will have something to be proud of that will last beyond your lifetime! Keep us posted with your progress!

[Jumijo]

Jim,

Glad to hear that they run well and are better than you expected. As for the shell, your options as I see them are as follows:

1. buy a better shell with a red GM decal off of eBay (my recommendation)

2. Send your shell out for repainting

3. Repaint it yourself. If you screw it up you can always head back to one of the first 2 options.

4. Send them to me and I will give them a home. Hey, they run well. Cosmetics are easy! 

 

If the frame is pocked or disfigured, you can neutralize the damage with baking soda and water, then sand it and fill any holes with auto body putty and repaint. If it's too far gone, a replacement might be a better and cheaper option than repair. 

I'd approach this set of 2343s as a challenge. One that is going to test me on my restoration skills. Obviously, you knew what you were buying (I hope) before you purchased them, so have fun with them. Enjoy the process of bringing these back to the way they once looked. 

Congratulations, man! 

Jim 

[Jumijo]

Jim,

Heres a few before and after photos of my 2343s.

Before:

 

After:

 

 

 

Before:

 

After:

 

I was lucky in that my trains only needed a cleaning to look like new. All that dullness and staining washed away. Got them for a song, too! All the portholes were there, but two popped out while I was cleaning. Fortunately, I didn't lose them and just need to glue them back on. If I can remember to do so! Yesterday at the hobby shop, I came across some B&M Minuteman scheme decals for an F3 set. I am tempted to buy them and repaint my Williams 2343s now that I have a post war Lionel set.

Jim 

[FEClionel]

Jim,

How did you get yours to shine like that? I use Meguiars NXT synthetic polymer liquid wax - soft on finish and does not leave a white residue. The silver is the hardest to restore - I made a somewhat shiney 2333 dull by trying to wax the silver - live and learn and sell!

[Jumijo]

Jim,

How did you get yours to shine like that? I use Meguiars NXT synthetic polymer liquid wax - soft on finish and does not leave a white residue. The silver is the hardest to restore - I made a somewhat shiney 2333 dull by trying to wax the silver - live and learn and sell!

Shine like what? 

I will offer you this advice: Before attempting to clean or wax or otherwise better the condition of any post war paint, ALWAYS test your proposed method on an unseen area first, preferably the inside of a shell that has the same paint. If the paint doesn't react badly, you are clear for takeoff. If it does, you haven't destroyed your train but have learned what not to do.

Jim 

[Anonymous]

FEC and Jim,

                  Thanks for the replies.  I won a shell for the dummy unit on ebay, so I think I will leave these shells the way they are.  They are clean enough, and besides, there is a feeling that the wear evokes that restored pieces seem to lack.  I am cleaning the mechanicals right now...

 

[mpzpw3]

So... Did you buy new shells, or clean the old one's? My experience is that the "black" showing through on the pictures in your 1st. post is the original shell color showing through. You stated you replaced the dummy unit's shell, but did you also replace the powered units shell, and if not, what did you clean it with? Happy to see them running and looking good!

[Anonymous]

I just bought a shell for the dummy unit.  I haven't received it yet.

[Anonymous]

Jim,

Heres a few before and after photos of my 2343s.

Before:

 

After:

 

 

 

Before:

 

After:

 

I was lucky in that my trains only needed a cleaning to look like new. All that dullness and staining washed away. Got them for a song, too! All the portholes were there, but two popped out while I was cleaning. Fortunately, I didn't lose them and just need to glue them back on. If I can remember to do so! Yesterday at the hobby shop, I came across some B&M Minuteman scheme decals for an F3 set. I am tempted to buy them and repaint my Williams 2343s now that I have a post war Lionel set.

Jim 

 

  I have a set of 2333s in similar condition as your befores. How'd you do it? If I could get mine to shine like that I'd be very happy.

[philo426]

Yeah I re-painted my F-3s using the O gauge Microscale decal set and they came out great!Just as long as you are skilled at using an airbrush and can make your own paint masks,it should be a breeze!

[PhilaKnight]

Had a old Lionel GP-9 with battery damage. Stripped it down and bead balsted the metal frame  clean then wiped it down with a cleaner ( Prepsol, denatured alcohol) then primed and painted it. Came out nice. Wasn't to worried about origanilty cause it was overhauled when origanal motor burnt out. But then I have some Union Pacific gray Alco's that show wearing like yours and I like the way they look gives them a weathered apperance and I run them with some beat up frieght cars to add a realistic effect.