LIONEL FASTRACK 036 SWITCHES

[SD-40T-2]

i have the  135 powerhouse, powermaster ,command base, cab-1 remote do i need a separate transformer  to operate  the switches  along with the sc-2 switch and acc controler

[chuck]

No.  FastTrack switches pull little current and have built in regulators as they actually run on fairly low voltage.  If you are running in conventional and do drop track power to zero, the switches obviously won't work.  In this case you may want to invest in a small auxiliary power supply (although I am having a hard time coming up with a scenario of why you would throw a switch and route a train into a "dead" block?) to supply the switches directly.

[riverrailfan]

Not sure if the motor to switch the switch is regulated. The higher the voltage the faster it switches. It's designed to run min. 5 volts. I have one switch in my layout that won't switch unless there is min 9 volts. All the others will work perfectly at 5 volts so I run seperate power source for the switches.

[USNRol]

I'd tend to agree that the FasTrack switches draw very little current.  Depending on layout size, number of switches, other accessories, and mode of operation (TMCC/CONV) that 135 Watt brick may or may not be enough.  I ran a good size (7x14) FasTrack layout with 5 switches in CONV mode with my Polar Express and a dual motored 2343 running at the same time with plenty of left over power for switches, (although the trains were kinda sluggish) with a PW 150 Watt "V" model.  Even when testing the limits of the transformer's ability to power trains down the track the FasTrack switches operated beautifully.

If you want to throw switches while CONV mode trains are stopped and unpowered, then you need a seperate PS feeding the switches through the AUX power inputs.

Roland 

[sulafool]

riverrailfan,

Your switches may have a problem if upping the voltage speeds them up. I noticed that whether I changed voltage or even used a separate supply they always operate at the same speed. I suspected they may be regulated so I called Lionel and the tech told me they were indeed voltage regulated. 5 volts is the magic number; any more than that makes no difference (or shouldn't anyway, one would think). I believe that's why so many report the switches working well on track voltage alone and don't bother with separate power which was so handy for the old O22s. My switches are a couple years old so I don't think regulation is a new development, but who knows? 

[riverrailfan]

riverrailfan,

Your switches may have a problem if upping the voltage speeds them up. I noticed that whether I changed voltage or even used a separate supply they always operate at the same speed. I suspected they may be regulated so I called Lionel and the tech told me they were indeed voltage regulated. 5 volts is the magic number; any more than that makes no difference (or shouldn't anyway, one would think). I believe that's why so many report the switches working well on track voltage alone and don't bother with separate power which was so handy for the old O22s. My switches are a couple years old so I don't think regulation is a new development, but who knows? 

Possibly I'm used to the sound of this switch due to it is the closest to me and is used to enter the yard. When you do operate it below 9 volts, sometimes it works and sometimes it don't. When it does work it is slow. It doesn't seem to bind but is very very slightly stiffer than the other 5 switches. I would say that below 9 volts this switch just doesn't get enough current from the transformer. After 9 volts it works just fine. I'm curious on how long the micro DC can motor will last in these switches

[sulafool]

RRF,

Is by chance your balky switch a RightHand? 

[riverrailfan]

RRF,

Is by chance your balky switch a RightHand? 

yup

[sulafool]

    

RRF,

Is by chance your balky switch a RightHand? 

yup

This is your lucky day! I may have a fix for you. Out of my 4 pair of switches, all the RH  bind some while the LH are silky smooth. Can't explain; just an observation.  Anyway, I was able to tweak the Rights by shimming the motor slightly. Add something about the thickness of a business card or electrical tape under the motor where it sits on its "cradle".  It's surprising how little can make such a big difference; you just need to reduce the pinion-to-segment engagement slightly. The factory puts a piece of paper tape on the motor in that area but it isn't enough. Also surprising is that the knotheads at Lionel are so clueless about this problem. I returned my worst two rights to them with a detailed explanation of what was wrong. What's sad about it , tho, is their return shipping invoice said they had "examined and were returning one right and one left switch, no problems found".  Sheesh! If they can't even tell a left from a right....

Bottom line is I was forced to find a cure on my own, but now I am very happy with both sides of my Fastrack switches, and will even buy some more of them (someday).