Clean ZW Windings?

[jjm]

Just a quick question.  What do most of you use to clean the windings on a ZW?  I think some have suggested a pink pencil eraser.  Is that best?

[phillyreading]

A soft cloth with some rubbing alcohol on it, for stubborn dirt I use a stiff pencil eraser, don't use a soft eraser as you will use it up very quick.  While you are at check the roller wheels inside, they might be pitted from all the years of use.  Check the electric cord too.

Lee F.

[A&Y Ry]

In addition to the other suggestions I always finish up by spraying electrical contact cleaner on the ZW secondary's winding surface. CRC and other brands are good. Be sure to have decent ventlation when using contact cleaner.

[jimsrpo]

If using a liquid, use it sparingly and make sure it doesn't dissolve the insulation between the coils.

Jim

[jjm]

Thanks.  There are some blackened tracks on the windings.  I will be changing the rollers, but I was not sure what was best for cleaning off the black.  I want to avoid removing the coating on the windings.  From the posts above, I am thinking about very carefully using a wet solution just where needed with a soft cloth.  I would think an electroonics cleaning solution might be safest, but these windings are old.  Would not want a modern solution to cause problems.

[phillyreading]

I would suggest taking the ZW outside if using a spray cleaner for two reasons; 1) you don't get overcome by the fumes, and the smell can draw thru the central air conditioning,  2) you don't mess up the house by staining the carpet or tile.

Lee F.

[lionelsoni]

From your first post, I assumed that you were concerned with the loose carbon powder from the rollers.  That is pretty harmless.  I usually just wipe it off with a paper towel so that I don't get it on my clothes; but, if you want to clean it thoroughly, that's okay too.

But now I wonder from your comment about "blackened tracks on the windings" whether some of the insulating coating of the wire is burned.  This is particularly likely if the edges of the black area are aligned along the length of the wire.  This kind of burning can result from connecting any of the A, B, C, or D output terminals together.  (You can stop reading if you've heard this from me before!)  This can happen when trains are run from one block to another, powered from different transformer terminals.  The circuit breaker does not protect anything in this case.

Even if the winding is burned, the transformer may still work all right, if there isn't a good contact between adjacent winding turns.

[jjm]

Thanks, Bob.  Can't say how this transformer was treated in the past.  Just got it a couple months ago.  The black marks look more like the tracks from the rollers, so I was just looking to clean the marks off as I am replacing the rollers.

 

Jim

[lionelsoni]

That doesn't sound at all like the problem I was thinking about.

[Back2Trains]

I use rubbing alcohol on a rag followed up by cleaning with an eraser then a clean paint brush to remove any remaining eraser crumbs. I don't use spray cleaners in transformers because the spray is too hard to control and you can end up with a mess.

[jjm]

The point about the control of the spray is a good one.  Had not thought of that.

[ChiefEagles]

PLEASE DON'T SAND!!!!!  I GET UPSET WHEN I SEE ONE THAT HAS BEEN SANDED.  We usually clean and apply a little die-electrical [however its spelled] grease.

[pgtr]

Can you expand on this? If a ZW were used across insulated tracks and if there is a short this can happen? If one is using a ZW across 2 or more insulated tracks what are the options? Be carefull?

Thanks for any info!

 

 

...This kind of burning can result from connecting any of the A, B, C, or D output terminals together.  (You can stop reading if you've heard this from me before!)  This can happen when trains are run from one block to another, powered from different transformer terminals.  The circuit breaker does not protect anything in this case.

Even if the winding is burned, the transformer may still work all right, if there isn't a good contact between adjacent winding turns.

[lionelsoni]

Running the train across the gap between the blocks creates the short circuit, by connecting the two transformer terminals together.  If the voltages are set exactly equal, there is no problem.  Otherwise, if the train moves across the gap quickly, the transformer doesn't have time to heat up.  But, otherwise, if the train stops with its pickups across the gap, lots of current can flow from one transformer terminal to the other, the circuit breaker is certain not to trip, and the transformer or layout wiring can burn.

The best solution I know is to use an SPDT switch for each block, to assign its center rail to one or the other transformer terminal.  Then the train can be kept connected to one and only one transformer output as it moves from block to block.

[pgtr]

Thanks Lioneloni - just to be sure I understand, we're talking about 2 sections where the center rail is divided by an insulator pin, the outer rails are common, two phased transformers each control each section and a train can pass between the two preferrably w/ the 2 (phased) transformers at approximately the same voltage levels. And if the train is 'parked' over the insulated divider - yes I see how it would cause the two to 'connect'. OK for a quick drivethru but not to sit and 'park' there. - thanks

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ChiefEagles - I agree on the sanding - but why dielectric grease? 

 

thanks 

 

[ChiefEagles]

Seems to cut down on that black streak you are talking about.

[lionelsoni]

I didn't mean to suggest that it's okay as long as the train keeps moving.  That's better than if it stops; but doing it routinely increases the chance of making a mistake that starts a fire or ruins something.  There is also the consideration that there will likely be arcing and voltage spikes as the short circuit opens, possibly eroding the pickups or damaging the electronics of modern locomotive which aren't as robust as older ones.

Switching the center rails between transformers (or shutting them off with a center-off switch) also lets you create as many blocks as you are willing to wire up, without having to add a transformer output for each new block.  The result can be a significantly more flexible layout.