Adding Remote Control to Lionel Postwar 027 No. 1022 Manual Switches

[dsmith]

On my Lionel postwar 027 layout I like the look of the manual 1022 switches better than the remote control 1122 switches.  Also, the 1022 switch is great for use on industrial sidings because it automatically switches power to the siding.  In places where I can easily reach the switches I also enjoy switching them by hand.  But in difficult to reach places on the layout I use this easy add on remote control that does not harm the original switch in any way. Start by bending the 1/32” steel wire to the shape shown.  Then attach one end to the motor shaft by wrapping with soft copper wire and soldering the connection.  Next cut a piece of thin sheet metal or thin plastic to 1” x 4”.   Attach the motor to the end of the metal or plastic piece.  I use hot melt glue.  I also use black electrical tape and wrap the motor.  This covers the brush openings and adds strength to the motor glue joint.

Then attach the remaining strip to the bottom of the switch using double faced tape.  Align the motor shaft directly opposite the switch arm pivot.

 

 

 

 

Assemble the 2 pushbutton switches and diodes in a small plastic project box and run wires to the AC accessory terminals of your transformer and to the motor using #18 or 20 gauge wire.

 

 

 A video of the remote switch in operation will follow shortly.

 

 

[ADCX Rob]

Looks great!

You could also incorporate Bob Nelson's CD circuit into your wiring to make the 1022 non-derailing using track trigger sections as you would with 1121 switches.

Could you recommend a motor type(or specs) that might be available from a surplus house(All Electronics, eg.)?

Rob

[dsmith]

Hi Rob,

Here is a motor that should work from All Electronics.  It is similar to the Radio Shack motor and it's less expensive:

http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/DCM-298/SMALL-POWERFUL-12VDC-MOTOR/1.html

[lionelsoni]

I think that adding capacitive discharge would be difficult here, since he needs voltage of either polarity to run the single motor, which he gets by rectifying the transformer's AC output.  The two solenoids of a conventional switch machine don't care whether they see AC, or DC of either polarity.

[dsmith]

Also, from All Electronics they have all the other parts for the remote switches.

The 3 amp diodes.

http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/GI851/3-AMP-100-V-FAST-RECOVERY-RECTIFIER/-/1.html

Momentary pushbutton switches.

http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/MPB-1/SPST-MOMENTARY-N.O.-PUSHBUTTON/-/1.html

Plastic case.

http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/1551-KBK/BLACK-ABS-BOX-3.15-X-1.57-X-0.8-/-/1.html

On my layout I have 2 - 1022 switches with the added remote feature and I use a postwar 1122 switch controller instead of the plastic case and pushbuttons.  There is plenty of room inside for the 2 diodes.

 

 

[dsmith]

Here is a short video of the switch in operation.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2-M0JSeVWM4

[alank]

Dave,

        I too like those 1022 switches, and have always used them for my yard.    I have on occasion tried to find a good way to work them remotely without modifying them.   Never found anything I really liked, but what you show is simple and interesting.   Thanks for sharing, and the little movie clip to go along with.   My railroad uses exclusively 1022, and 1122 switches which I have aquired quite a few.   I have at time thought of the 042 -027 switches, but I like the postwar look the best.   

                                                                                               Thanks Again,

                                                                                               Alan

[ADCX Rob]

lionelsoni

I think that adding capacitive discharge would be difficult here, since he needs voltage of either polarity to run the single motor, which he gets by rectifying the transformer's AC output.  The two solenoids of a conventional switch machine don't care whether they see AC, or DC of either polarity.

All you would need is a pair of inexpensive bridge rectifiers added, one for the "out" and one for the "through" circuits.