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497 Coaling station wires issue

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  • Member since
    January 2019
  • From: Henrico, VA
  • 9,583 posts
Posted by Flintlock76 on Wednesday, January 16, 2019 1:25 PM

Anytime!  And good luck!

  • Member since
    July 2013
  • 118 posts
Posted by richardm47 on Wednesday, January 16, 2019 10:35 AM

Thanks for the heads up.... I appreciate your quick reply.

  • Member since
    January 2019
  • From: Henrico, VA
  • 9,583 posts
Posted by Flintlock76 on Wednesday, January 16, 2019 9:30 AM

Richard, try posting this on the "Classic TOY Trains" Forum.  You're close, but not quite there.

And don't be embarassed, you're not the first to confuse "Classic Trains" with "Classic Toy Trains" and won't be the last.

And for what it's worth, it sounds like you're doing OK, just take it slow and replace one poor wire at a time so there's no mistakes.

I'm into toy trains myself and can't tell you why these things were produced they way they were.  Obviously it made sense to someone at the time even if it doesn't make sense now.

  • Member since
    July 2013
  • 118 posts
497 Coaling station wires issue
Posted by richardm47 on Tuesday, January 15, 2019 11:13 PM

 

I purchased a 497 Lionel coaling station  (ebay) and it works.  ( It is also listed as 2315)  The wire coating was fragile, but I was able to spread cracked insulation out enough to avoid grounds.  The controls work as indicated on the controller.  I've cleaned and steel-wooled surfaces, so it moves freely.   It had the  track clips so I could have used regular track and the older type dump car, which I do not have.  I removed the clips and set it to use a single magnet remote track for the newer dump cars, and that worked  fine.  Now I want to replace the fragile wire.  The conundrum is that the clearly numbered wires under the roof (on either side of the motor) do no match the numbers on the controller,  where they connect.  As I said, all four functions tested as labeled...  But #1 on the unit connects to #4 on the controller.   Likewise, #2 goes to  controller #3, #3 goes to controller #2, and #4 goes to controller #1.  It appears to be the original wire, as there are no "new soldering" on the loader or the controller, and the wire is one piece from the loader to the controller.

 

I think I'll be ok reconnecting as is, but am curious about the "illogical" sequence. 

 

As always, thank you for excellent information and help.

 

Always in training.   Richard M

 

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