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Best Way to Get a High Gloss Finish

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Best Way to Get a High Gloss Finish
Posted by RicZ on Thursday, November 18, 2021 5:24 PM

What is the best method, and product to get a high gloss chrome finish.  I am building a CB&Q E-5 which had a chrome exterior.

RicZ

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Posted by Ladder1 on Thursday, November 18, 2021 6:27 PM

E5 is polished stainless steel.   Chrome is a bit to shiny.  There are some stainless spray paints out there that work. 

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Posted by selector on Thursday, November 18, 2021 7:19 PM

Yesh, is this about an overcoat to what would be polished stainless, or about getting a passable stainless look?  It's not clear.  Gloss finish would come via gloss medium, spray lacquer,...

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Posted by SeeYou190 on Thursday, November 18, 2021 9:41 PM

If you are willing to put in a little extra effort, Bare Metal Foil is an excellent chrome finish.

-Kevin

Wink Happily modeling my STRATTON & GILLETTE RAILROAD. A Class A line located in a personal fantasy world of semi-plausible nonsense on Tuesday, August 3rd, 1954.

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Posted by Mark R. on Thursday, November 18, 2021 10:22 PM

Look up Molotow Chrome Markers. These are hands down THE best chrome finish I have ever witnessed. You can buy refills for the markers and can be airbrushed with surprisingly good results.

Check out this video on YouTube ....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UV9a1QxEw0A&ab_channel=baremetalHW

Mark.

¡ uʍop ǝpısdn sı ǝɹnʇɐuƃıs ʎɯ 'dlǝɥ

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Posted by doctorwayne on Thursday, November 18, 2021 10:49 PM

If you can get the colour right, the gloss should be easy...

Wayne

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Posted by AntonioFP45 on Friday, November 19, 2021 5:03 AM

Ric,

If you are familiar with airbrushing, consider giving Alclad II a try.  The CB&Q E5 yielded a #8 high-polished stainless steel appearance from the factory.

Here is a thread that I posted some years back in to how to achieve a realistic stainless steel finish: 

https://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/88/p/195132/2131266.aspx

If I can be of any assistance, contact me anytime, as I check this forum 4 to 5 times a week.

This is an inexpensive 80's vintage IHC Santa Fe Pleasure dome that is in the thread link:

Below is an HO Walthers 52-seat coach that I metalized with Alclad II. The sheen is bright, yet it's actually toned down slightly with 2 coats of clear. With a single coat, the sheen would have been brigher, which, from your message, is the appearance that you are targeting. 

This is, what I think, you're going for:

(credit to the photographer)

One thin coat of clear, imho, will protect the metalizer's finish while it would still yield a bright, deep sheen. Big Smile

"I like my Pullman Standards & Budds in Stainless Steel flavors, thank you!"

 


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Posted by RicZ on Friday, November 19, 2021 10:31 AM

AntonioFP45,

I read your article and it is very descriptive.  I want to use it, however, I have a question.  You recommended Scalecoat II Light Gray Primer, but I cannot find any at this time.  Is there another primer you would recommend in today's marke?  Does it have to be a gloss primer or simply plastic compatible, such as an acrylic-polyurethan?

thanks for you input, it is greatly appreciated.

RicZ

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Posted by doctorwayne on Friday, November 19, 2021 11:23 AM

RicZ
Is there another primer you would recommend

When I ran out of Floquil's Grey Primer, I tried a bottle of Alclad II Grey Primer & Microfiller.

It's a ready-to-use lacquer-based paint, and is the best primer I've found.  The price here in Canada is a little off-putting, but after I tried it for the first time, I went back to the only hobbyshop left that's within a 45 minute drive, and bought another five bottles of it.

Wayne

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Posted by SeeYou190 on Friday, November 19, 2021 11:39 AM

doctorwayne
When I ran out of Floquil's Grey Primer, I tried a bottle of Alclad II Grey Primer & Microfiller. It's a ready-to-use lacquer-based paint, and is the best primer I've found.  The price here in Canada is a little off-putting, but after I tried it for the first time, I went back to the only hobbyshop left that's within a 45 minute drive, and bought another five bottles of it.

Alclad is expensive, but as with most paint products, you get what you pay for.

I have nothing but good things to say about Alclad.

The command tank for my 15mm American WW2 Armored Company is painted "chrome" with Alclad paints, and it looks great. I wish I had a picture to share.

-Kevin

Wink Happily modeling my STRATTON & GILLETTE RAILROAD. A Class A line located in a personal fantasy world of semi-plausible nonsense on Tuesday, August 3rd, 1954.

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Posted by gmpullman on Friday, November 19, 2021 4:42 PM

I stripped the Tuscan red paint off this Pennsy twin-unit diner and applied Alclad. I believe I used "chrome" color as the stainless steel seemed to be a bit dark in comparison.

 Walthers PRR Dining car Alclad by Edmund, on Flickr


 PRR_diner by Edmund, on Flickr

 

 

This Kato business car got the Alclad treatment, too. This one is the stainless steel color:

 IMG_9927_fix by Edmund, on Flickr

I'm looking forward to trying out the Molotow product.

Good Luck, Ed

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Posted by AntonioFP45 on Friday, November 19, 2021 6:53 PM

Hi RicZ,

For modeling the stainless steel for passenger equipment, I've suggested that modelers can "fine tune' the tone of the desired appearance, based on the primer or basecoat.

For a "Cool or Cold color temperature" tone, I respectfully suggest a darker gray, such as NYC Dk Gray.  For a "warm" (aged) tone, go with NYC Lt. Gray, which is more yellowish-red. That's just to keep it simple. Modelers can vary the grey color based on the tone that is being targeted.

I prefer Scale Coat II because it has a high gloss yield, and dries to a HARD finish. No need to clear coat it.  

Minute Man models has Scale Coat paints in stock. In my humble opinion, either NYC Dk. Gray #2066 or SP Dk. Gray #2028 may work for your E5. NOTE: As always, the smoother the foundation's finish, the more realistic the metalizer's finish will appear. A helpful step is to practice on a scrap piece of plastic or model shell first with the paint. Same with the Alclad II metalizer.

Minute Man ->  https://www.minutemanscalemodels.com/category-s/147.htm?searching=Y&sort=13&cat=147&show=30&page=1

A "High-5" to you, as a modeler has been wanting me to metalize an E5 for him for a while now (but I'm behind on my own projects), so you're ahead of me in the game! 

"I like my Pullman Standards & Budds in Stainless Steel flavors, thank you!"

 


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Posted by AntonioFP45 on Friday, November 19, 2021 6:59 PM

GM Pullman,

Your varnish is "Looking good!" Cool

"I like my Pullman Standards & Budds in Stainless Steel flavors, thank you!"

 


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  • From: Good ol' USA
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Posted by AntonioFP45 on Monday, November 22, 2021 8:08 AM

Forgot to mention:

If you decide to install decals on the metalized surface; PLEASE DO NOT use Solvaset. It will mar a metalized finish.  That's why it is recommended that the shell be sealed with a smooth, thin coat of clear; then apply decals.

Potential issue is that if the clear isn't fully cured (cool temps, humidity, old new stock, etc) the Solvaset can penetrate it.  I've spoken with modelers in which that has happened.

I've been using Microscale's Microset and Microsol for years and have had zero issues with decal installations on metalized projects. Sure, it takes slightly longer than using Solvaset............but what's the rush?Wink

 

"I like my Pullman Standards & Budds in Stainless Steel flavors, thank you!"

 


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