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Building Campbell's Silver Spur Mine

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  • Member since
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  • From: west coast
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Building Campbell's Silver Spur Mine
Posted by rrebell on Monday, October 11, 2021 10:21 AM

Been workining on this build and ran a thread earlier about best adhesive for the metal siding. Went with contact cement and also found out doing two coats on the cardboard worked better along with the best way to cut it into panels (a Chopper with two or more layers and a fresh mat) and best way to cut trim (very sharp scissors). Now I am at the folding over the paneling at the corners, holds on its own but I wanted it to sit flatter so ACC it. Worked great. Next up is paint and the question is should I just go with a rattle can light grey matt as a primer coat or a flat matt spray and then the rattle can or ?  Final finish is up in the air as I have rusting powders and mediums and I did a small shed roof in metal and it came out great by drybrushing varius browns and red browns.

  • Member since
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  • From: Shenandoah Valley
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Posted by BigDaddy on Monday, October 11, 2021 2:54 PM

I'd just go with the rattle can gray primer.  That's going to be the underlying color anyway.

Henry

COB Potomac & Northern

Shenandoah Valley

  • Member since
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  • From: 10,430’ (3,179 m)
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Posted by jjdamnit on Thursday, October 14, 2021 12:44 PM

Hello All,

Great progress on your build.

I would recommend Rust-Oleum Painters Touch 2x Ultra Cover Primer Spray- -Gray.

This adheres to many different surfaces- -wood, plastic, metal, and more (according to their information.)

Keep in mind most primers, no matter the color, are intended to fill in the gaps of rough surfaces to provide a smooth surface for the "priming" of the final finish coat(s).

Several light coats, to maintain the details, are advised over one thick coat.

Also, use the Bane Marie method to heat the can to make the paint flow easier.

Put the can(s) in a container and fill with hot tap water- -do not use boiling water!

Allow the can(s) to soak, shaking frequently, until they are warm.

Depending on where you store your paints you might need to refresh the water once or twice. 

Allow each light coat to dry thoroughly before applying the next coat. This will help maintain the details.

Again, great to hear of your progress, keep us updated and as always...

Hope this helps.

 

"Uhh...I didn’t know it was 'impossible' I just made it work...sorry"

  • Member since
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  • From: west coast
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Posted by rrebell on Thursday, October 14, 2021 7:20 PM

Tested that paint, way too thick. Not all primers are thick.

  • Member since
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  • From: 10,430’ (3,179 m)
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Posted by jjdamnit on Friday, October 15, 2021 6:34 PM

Hello All,

rrebell
Not all primers are thick.

jjdamnit
Keep in mind most primers, no matter the color, are intended to fill in the gaps of rough surfaces to provide a smooth surface for the "priming" of the final finish coat(s).

In painting preparation terms, a "primer" is intended to be thick.

Unfortunately- -for us modelers- -these typical "primers" mask the details we seek to preserve.

A "Base Coat" can be applied as a stand-alone coat to enhance the final finish or, after "priming" the surface to be painted.

Base coats are not thick.

They are not intended to fill in the irregularities of a surface, or- -for us modelers- -details.

rrebell
...should I just go with a rattle can light grey matt as a primer coat or a flat matt spray and then the rattle can or ?

Light colors: white, yellow, and some tints (lighter colors) of blues and greens can benefit from a gray base coat.

Darker colors benefit most from a brick-red base coat.

rrebell
Final finish is up in the air as I have rusting powders and mediums and I did a small shed roof in metal and it came out great by drybrushing varius browns and red browns.

Sounds like you might not need to "prime" the building for painting.

Just paint the structure the base coat color of your choice and, weather accordingly.

Hope this helps.

"Uhh...I didn’t know it was 'impossible' I just made it work...sorry"

  • Member since
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  • From: Southern Florida Gulf Coast
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Posted by SeeYou190 on Saturday, October 16, 2021 12:00 AM

rrebell
Next up is paint and the question is should I just go with a rattle can light grey matt as a primer coat or a flat matt spray and then the rattle can or ?

If you really want to use a spray can, Tamiya seems like a good suggestion, but I have never tried it on metal.

-Kevin

Happily modeling my STRATTON & GILLETTE RAILROAD. A Class A line located in a personal fantasy world of semi-plausible nonsense on Tuesday, August 3rd, 1954.

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  • From: west coast
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Posted by rrebell on Saturday, October 16, 2021 9:23 AM

It will be rusted corrigated siding. Instructions are hard to follow but the drawings are great. Got most of it built now but since I am staining the wood parts and heavily weathering the rest it is still in sub assemblys.

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  • From: west coast
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Posted by rrebell on Tuesday, October 26, 2021 12:00 AM

Still working on the project, found a few things were wrong in the instructions, not unusual for a lot of craftsman kits, opening for the tunnel tipple was wrong size and a few other minor flaws having to do with the card parts just being wrong but all is fixed. Worst part is redoing the base area for the mine, guess my mock up was not right, guess pen widths add up.

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Posted by RR_Mel on Tuesday, October 26, 2021 12:25 AM

I left the metal natural and weathered it.  I used Acrylic Oak stain on the wood then added a bit of weathering.

 




Mel


 
My Model Railroad   
http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/
 
Bakersfield, California
 
Turned 84 in July, aging is definitely not for wimps.

  • Member since
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  • From: west coast
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Posted by rrebell on Tuesday, October 26, 2021 8:40 AM

Ya, I saw your build thread, wish I could post pics but after the last disaster with pic hosting I said to myself, why bother. Other forum that used to exist I posted pics all the time from my computer direct, they limited the pixels so no storage problems. Mine I went with an alcohol stain I have been using for years. For the metal I usually go with a rusting solution but think I will go with a drybrush job, metal already primed with light grey. 

  • Member since
    January 2006
  • From: Sandy Eggo, CA
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Posted by Ray Dunakin on Thursday, December 2, 2021 9:10 PM

Do those lights on the headframe work?

 Visit www.raydunakin.com to see pics of the rugged and rocky In-ko-pah Railroad!
  • Member since
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Posted by RR_Mel on Thursday, December 2, 2021 9:55 PM

Ray Dunakin

Do those lights on the headframe work?

 

Yes, there are a total of 13 2mm 12 volt incandescent bulbs on my mine.  I operate all my structure lighting at 70% to increase lamp life and operating at 8½ volts they look much more realistic for the 1950s.  The lamp shades are dimpled 2mm washers.

The elevator winch cable is automated, it moves back and forth turning the pulleys, controlled by an Arduino.




 

Mel


 
My Model Railroad   
http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/
 
Bakersfield, California
 
Turned 84 in July, aging is definitely not for wimps.

  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: west coast
  • 6,662 posts
Posted by rrebell on Friday, December 3, 2021 8:59 AM

Well I wish I could post pics but the mine is done and I was able to make it removable, even with the cable and all legs attatched, overall it turned out nice with rusted corigated windows stained to match the stained woodwork.

  • Member since
    January 2009
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Posted by RR_Mel on Friday, December 3, 2021 10:24 AM

Send me your pictures and I’ll post them for you.  My email is in my profile.


Mel



 
My Model Railroad   
http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/
 
Bakersfield, California
 
Turned 84 in July, aging is definitely not for wimps.

  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: west coast
  • 6,662 posts
Posted by rrebell on Saturday, December 4, 2021 4:05 PM

Thanks I will proubly do it monday so daughter is around if I have an issue with sending.

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