richhotrain n012944 Another option is to keep everything and join a club. I went this route 3 years ago when I moved to Florida. I had a good sized layout in my basement outside Chicago, and when I moved to the land of no basements, decided I would not be satisfied with what I could do in a spare bedroom. I like it a bit more than having a layout at home, so I don't regret the decision. Ugh. Personally, I would rather build a bedroom layout. Rich
n012944 Another option is to keep everything and join a club. I went this route 3 years ago when I moved to Florida. I had a good sized layout in my basement outside Chicago, and when I moved to the land of no basements, decided I would not be satisfied with what I could do in a spare bedroom. I like it a bit more than having a layout at home, so I don't regret the decision.
Another option is to keep everything and join a club. I went this route 3 years ago when I moved to Florida. I had a good sized layout in my basement outside Chicago, and when I moved to the land of no basements, decided I would not be satisfied with what I could do in a spare bedroom. I like it a bit more than having a layout at home, so I don't regret the decision.
Ugh. Personally, I would rather build a bedroom layout.
Rich
Nah, not for me, too small.
An "expensive model collector"
Alton Junction
richhotrain peahrens richhotrain Paul, how is your flex track secured and ballasted to the subroadbed? There is quite a market on eBay for used flex track depending upon condition. Rich Rich, the flex track is just secured with Alex Plus latex caulk. I'm thinking very few pieces are full 3' sections, most are hacked to some degree to fit a certain length or are cut to work in the curves. It is also painted. I have had good experience selling used flextrack on eBay, even pieces shorter than 36". If you can remove it easily from the subroadbed and clean off the ballast, it will sell. Rich
peahrens richhotrain Paul, how is your flex track secured and ballasted to the subroadbed? There is quite a market on eBay for used flex track depending upon condition. Rich Rich, the flex track is just secured with Alex Plus latex caulk. I'm thinking very few pieces are full 3' sections, most are hacked to some degree to fit a certain length or are cut to work in the curves. It is also painted.
richhotrain Paul, how is your flex track secured and ballasted to the subroadbed? There is quite a market on eBay for used flex track depending upon condition. Rich
Rich, the flex track is just secured with Alex Plus latex caulk. I'm thinking very few pieces are full 3' sections, most are hacked to some degree to fit a certain length or are cut to work in the curves. It is also painted.
I have had good experience selling used flextrack on eBay, even pieces shorter than 36". If you can remove it easily from the subroadbed and clean off the ballast, it will sell.
I have resold used track also. I guess folks figure that they are going to reballast track anyway, what's the point of acquiring pristine track. I've reused some pieces three layouts now, but its gottent fairly beaten to where it would look more appropriate as industrial spurs rather than well groomed mainline.
- Douglas
OvermodIf you built a ring of benchwork that could be lifted vertically on cables close to the ceiling,
-Matt
Returning to model railroading after 40 years and taking unconscionable liberties with the SP&S, Northern Pacific and Great Northern roads in the '40s and '50s.
My thought: if the ladder/stool option seems prohibitively dangerous, AND considering you were willing to consider a "back and forth just a few feet", then why not consider a simple around-the-walls at shoulder height, only not crossing in front of the door but starting and ending on either side of it? A point-to-point. That way you get the benefit of not having to risk life and limb changing stock (or cleaning track) but you get even MORE back and forth.
richhotrainI have had good experience selling used flextrack on eBay, even pieces shorter than 36". If you can remove it easily from the subroadbed and clean off the ballast, it will sell.
Yes, it will sell.
I have been amazed at the poor-condition used flex track that always sells on eBay.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
Thanks, Rich. I will look into it.
Paul
Modeling HO with a transition era UP bent
richhotrainPaul, how is your flex track secured and ballasted to the subroadbed? There is quite a market on eBay for used flex track depending upon condition. Rich
peahrens I am thinking through a layout teardown. I would likely recover the electronics, structures, signals, turnouts, Tortoises, barrier strips, etc. but not attempt removing and cleaning the flex track.
I am thinking through a layout teardown. I would likely recover the electronics, structures, signals, turnouts, Tortoises, barrier strips, etc. but not attempt removing and cleaning the flex track.
pt714Paul, as I remember from WPF your current layout is relatively compact compared to some of the pikes here. I understand not wanting to start a new one, but would it not be possible or desirable to transplant the existing one?
I did not, unfortunately, build the existing 5x10 layout for moveability. It should have been built with connected sections but I overlooked that. It is far too heavy and long to carry down the stairway from upstairs. I imagine a lift could be brought into the house somehow but it seems impractical. Besides, if I moved I would probably want to build a layout that fit a specific space. I enjoy the building (and learning) more than running the layout.
I will wait and see what size house we choose and whether that provides interior room for another moderate size layout. If so, I will keep everything (but the layout) and move, then design a layout (fun) and then decide whether to actualy plow ahead. If not, I should consider perhaps a simple garage layout, with minimal track for reduced track cleaning issues. If deciding not to build a layout, then the other compromise options arise. I would also look into a club, if available, and perhaps persue the idea of building a module, which could be kept in the garage easily.
I need to not get ahead of myself, and am just thinking about possibilities. One step I took is to refresh on EBay selling and start selling off about 30 car kits I do not need or want. That gets me ready if I want to sell off other items to some degree.
Thanks for the ideas and comments.
Paul, as I remember from WPF your current layout is relatively compact compared to some of the pikes here. I understand not wanting to start a new one, but would it not be possible or desirable to transplant the existing one?
peahrens c) Another option is display case(s) on the wall plus a runaround loop above the door height in the study. I could run a 4-8-4 passenger or a Big Boy freight. Solder and gleam all track, run a CMX on occasion and reliablity should be ok. Not sure I would get support for this. And changing HO running stock on a ladder or step stool is probably iffy for elders. But this is the main item for comments; i.e., has anyone done this (HO scale) and how satisfying was it?
c) Another option is display case(s) on the wall plus a runaround loop above the door height in the study. I could run a 4-8-4 passenger or a Big Boy freight. Solder and gleam all track, run a CMX on occasion and reliablity should be ok. Not sure I would get support for this. And changing HO running stock on a ladder or step stool is probably iffy for elders. But this is the main item for comments; i.e., has anyone done this (HO scale) and how satisfying was it?
I've not lived in a place where I could run a continuous loop attached to the walls, but I did have my portable 1x8 layout on an above-window shelf when I first built it, and I can tell you that even as a relative young'n, working/building (and certainly operating) on a stool/ladder with your arms raised the whole time gets old fast. One or two trains on loops of solid trackwork sounds like it might have potential just as something to enjoy watching, but I think I'd consider something low-work and bulletproof like Kato Unitrack if I were going to go that route at that height.
Phil
peahrens I'm doubtful I will undertake a new full layout (even if the space is available) so I am just contemplating other options. Of course, one option is to just get rid of everything.
I'm doubtful I will undertake a new full layout (even if the space is available) so I am just contemplating other options. Of course, one option is to just get rid of everything.
Remembering the threads about the layout cabled up inside the garage and the layout under the kid's elevated bed...
If you built a ring of benchwork that could be lifted vertically on cables close to the ceiling, and then let down on retractable legs if you wanted to reach it (or run it and watch it within easy reach) would there be the same 'complaints'? Likewise by choosing different sets of the legs you could lower it closer to the floor for chair accessibility...
Make the ring modular for easy construction or periodic takedown.
speedybee 7j43k And then there's option e), which would be modular. I like this plan, because it's exactly what I'm doing currently. I'm not using freemo standards though, because they're too restrictive and produce needlessly heavy and cumbersome modules. I've set my own standards involving foam+metal modules 62x20", so that they can all be stored on a shelf unit. They can be operated individually or connected together to form a continuous double track loop.
7j43k And then there's option e), which would be modular.
I like this plan, because it's exactly what I'm doing currently. I'm not using freemo standards though, because they're too restrictive and produce needlessly heavy and cumbersome modules.
I've set my own standards involving foam+metal modules 62x20", so that they can all be stored on a shelf unit. They can be operated individually or connected together to form a continuous double track loop.
If you're not going to "interchange" with other people, the standards you choose are totally up to you.
However.
You might want to go the social route of the group. With all the positives and negatives that are implied. Like a big place to run your trains.
And irritating people.
And supportive people.
Ed
When we left the "dream house" I lost my massive N scale empire, CTC room, Library, Lounge, and Workshop.
We moved into a 900 square foot three bedroom duplex, where we lived for almost ten years, but I built a 2 by 8 foot HO layout above the dresser in our bedroom.
I loved that layout.
Your work is good. You would miss having a real layout.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
7j43kAnd then there's option e), which would be modular.
And then there's option e), which would be modular. Free-mo comes to my mind, for some reason. It sounds like, in this case, you would build a small one.
It's a thought.....
There may be a move in our future and the current layout will have to be dismantled. The question is about options (and my inclinations) at a next location. I'm doubtful I will undertake a new full layout (even if the space is available) so I am just contemplating other options. Of course, one option is to just get rid of everything.
a) The minimal option is to keep some favorite locos and cars and put them on a display rack (or two) on the wall. Here is an example (comments on those welcome):
HO Scale Train Display Case Cabinet (sfdisplay.com)
b) An addition to (a) is to figure out how to have a demo straight track on a shelf (not a shelf layout); e.g. in a den/study where I can run a loco back and forth just a few feet.
d) Maybe the best option is HO display cases for old favorite HO items plus an O (or G) gauge train on an above the door loop?