I just gave the Bosch driver a quick test and I am quite happy so far. I drove some 3" deck screws into a 2x4. On the highest impact setting it didn'r actually use the impact function, but it drove the screws without hesitation. In fact, if I kept the trigger down, it would drive the heads deeply into the wood. Obviously there is no lack of torque.
One of the nice features is that the bits lock into the chuck. When I was replacing the fiberglass roof on our deck a few years ago (when I was still capable of such things) I had a problem with the chuck on my drill loosening up periodically so the bit would fall out. Very annoying!
What remains to be seen is how long the batteries will last and how long it takes to recharge one, but given my intended use I think the wee beastie will do just fine.
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
I like Bosch drills. I have a Bosch chipping hammer/demo drill, and a Bosch hammer drill.
I need to get one of those magnetic holders!
Mike.
My You Tube
hon30critter richhotrain What a magnetic drill bit holder does is to distribute the force of the repeated impact, significantly increasing the interval between replacement of drill bits. Hi Rich, I just ordered one. Unfortunately I couldn't find the exact one that you listed on Amazon or at Home Depot Canada so I chose a different Makita bit holder. It claims to have the same charactaristics for extending bit life. This is what I ordered: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00ECMC1F4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Dave
richhotrain What a magnetic drill bit holder does is to distribute the force of the repeated impact, significantly increasing the interval between replacement of drill bits.
Hi Rich,
I just ordered one. Unfortunately I couldn't find the exact one that you listed on Amazon or at Home Depot Canada so I chose a different Makita bit holder. It claims to have the same charactaristics for extending bit life.
This is what I ordered:
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00ECMC1F4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Rich
Alton Junction
richhotrainWhat a magnetic drill bit holder does is to distribute the force of the repeated impact, significantly increasing the interval between replacement of drill bits.
hon30critter I like the idea of the magnetic bit holder. Thanks Rich. Dave
I like the idea of the magnetic bit holder. Thanks Rich.
What a magnetic drill bit holder does is to distribute the force of the repeated impact, significantly increasing the interval between replacement of drill bits.
This is the driver that I bought. It is very small and only 12 volts.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B003BEE12U/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Our contractor used a similar sized Milwaukee unit when he was replacing the deck stairs and it drove the long screws quite easily even without pre-drilling.
I'm only going to use 2 1/2" screws and I will pre-drill the holes so the 12 volt unit should be fine. When I get it I will test it to see if it is up to snuff. If not, I can return it.
rrebellAh, the talk of tools.
Of course! If the thread can drift to the subject of beer, talking about the tools that Dave will absolutely possitively need to build this rotissery structure is perfectly acceptable.
Ah, the talk of tools. I started buying Ryobi over 15 years ago, why, because the 18 volt stuff is backward compatable. I have a number of tools from back then and they all use the new batteries. Also never accually killed one of their tools though some look like they should be shot. Last they are dirt cheap, esspecially during their sales.
York1My wife makes money like this: 1. Buy an item using a credit card. 2. Take the item back to get a different, cheaper item. 3. Get the refund difference in cash.
Good one John, I almost beleived it.
I have the Makita that Rich has, only I bought the set, with the drill. I "retired" all my old 18v and 14.5v tools, too expensive to get battery replacements.
Water Level Route hon30critter If I keep saving money like this eventually the layout should be free, right? Hey, that sounds like the logic my wife would use! Took me years to get her to understand that just because something is on sale doesn't mean that it doesn't cost money!
hon30critter If I keep saving money like this eventually the layout should be free, right?
Hey, that sounds like the logic my wife would use! Took me years to get her to understand that just because something is on sale doesn't mean that it doesn't cost money!
My wife makes money like this:
1. Buy an item using a credit card.
2. Take the item back to get a different, cheaper item.
3. Get the refund difference in cash.
She now has cash in her hand that she didn't have before. She can now spend that money, and she has two items that are basically free.
York1 John
I asked my doctor if I gave up delicious food and all alcohol, would I live longer? He said, "No, but it will seem longer."
I have plenty of bits, and at least 2 magnetic bit holders. It's also not much of an issue now that I have 2 tools, so I can keep a drill bit on one and the screwdriver bit in the other. That's the main reason I gae the 20V to 18V adapter a try, because the old nicads for the 18V drill were toast, and new ones cost way too much.
It's only the adapter that drains the batteries - I can leave a pack attached to the actual 20V tool and it only runs down at the self discharge rate - ie, weeks later there is still plenty of charge left in it. Between the 20V tool and buying the adpater set, I have 4 batteries and 2 chargers, so I haven't even been slowed down by battery issues. I've considered buying some of the aftermarket battery packs - but every single one of them is NOT the stated capacity. However, they ARE higher capacity than the smaller genuine ones, at less cost. Just not as great a bargain as they would be if they actually were the stated capacity. It's almost as bad as inkjet printer ink, the li-ion battery packs are simple as - just some li-ion cells spot welded together. The same cells are cheap to buy, even getting name brand ones. And of course the tool packs are all proprietary
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
hon30critterIf I keep saving money like this eventually the layout should be free, right?
Mike
rrinker Maybe that's what I need, an impact driver
Maybe that's what I need, an impact driver
As you say, Randy, always remove the battery when not in use. I alternate my two batteries, charging them in between uses.
Here is my impact drill, complete with two power packs.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Makita-1-5-Ah-18-Volt-LXT-Lithium-Ion-Compact-Cordless-1-4-in-Impact-Driver-Kit-XDT11SY/310782938
If you buy an impact drill, spend another five bucks and also buy a magnetic bit holder. An impact drill will dull the bit in no time. After going through nearly a dozen bits in short order, I bought this little sucker and now I almost never need to replace impact drill bits.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Makita-IMPACT-XPS-3-in-Magnetic-Insert-Bit-Holder-E-01367/311427420
Drill, baby, drill!
The screws I got for my benchwork are a Torx variation - but I didn't need any bits. I got small packs to try them, which come with a bit in each pack, and I have since bought the big pack - which also comes with a bit in each pack. With 3 different size screws needed, I now have 6 bits - 5 still in the package since the first one hasn;t worn out yet. Which is surprising - I was expecting the bit quality to be such as to just barely make it through the pack of screws it came with before being so rounded off as to be unusable.
Maybe that's what I need, an impact driver - it's a little easier with my old heavier 18V driver (with an adapter to use the 20V Li-ion packs - one caution, do not leave the battery pack attached when not using the tool, the adapter draws power constantly) as the new 20V drill/driver is more lightweight even ignoring the weight of battery packs, but still it's very obvious I have the screws in the right place as it constantly wants to jump out. The lower ones are not a problem, I cna really lean into them, but the upper ones are hard to put my weight against, they are over my head.
I may have to run out today and get my supplies, in several surrounding counties they issued shelter in place orders with zero warning. I calculated what I need to finish the yard/town room up to the point of havin the backdrop primed and the horizontals all attached, I don't need much to get there, but I do need some more lumber, sandpaper, and the paint supplies. Guess I could get a nice sky blue paint and completely finish the backdrops while I'm at it.
hon30critter I figure that I will need between 200 and 300 screws to assemble the benchwork. Home Depot Canada sells a package of 350 screws for $32.00. Getting them delivered would have cost an additional $21.00 or so. They also sell a package of 1200 screws for $49.00, and if you order more than $49.00 online then delivery is free! So let's see the math: 350 screws for a total of $53.00 or 1200 screws for $49.00. Gee, I wonder what I should do? Seriously, I don't have a clue what I will do with 850 extra screws but it just didn't make sense to turn them down.
I figure that I will need between 200 and 300 screws to assemble the benchwork. Home Depot Canada sells a package of 350 screws for $32.00. Getting them delivered would have cost an additional $21.00 or so. They also sell a package of 1200 screws for $49.00, and if you order more than $49.00 online then delivery is free! So let's see the math:
350 screws for a total of $53.00 or 1200 screws for $49.00. Gee, I wonder what I should do?
Seriously, I don't have a clue what I will do with 850 extra screws but it just didn't make sense to turn them down.
Dave, I went through the same thing when I installed recessed LED lighting cans in my basement. In our area, we are required to use conduit for the wiring. I went to Home Depot to buy a bag of 50 conduit connectors to the junction boxes and ceiling boxes only to find out that a jar of 250 conduit connectors was cheaper.
I just scored 850 #8 x 2 1/2" Robertson screws for free! Here's how:
I also needed a couple of other items, specifically #2 Robertson driver bits. HD sells a set of five Milwaukee bits for $13.00, and they also sell a kit with a variety of 20 different Milwaukee bits for $24.00 which includes five of the #2 Robertson bits. I needed some bits besides the #2 Robertsons and I almost bought them all separately until I noticed the kit. Buying them all separately would have cost me about $35.00.
If I keep saving money like this eventually the layout should be free, right?
Seriously, I don't have a clue what I will do with 850 extra screws but it just didn't make sense to turn them down. Maybe I can sell half of them in the yard sale, whenever that happens.
I also broke down and ordered a small Bosch impact screw driver. I have built tons of stuff using my regular drill to drive screws but I hate the way that the bit often wants to jump out of the screw head. I watched our kitchen contractor use his impact driver and it worked extremely well so I decided to treat myself. My birthday is in May so Dianne can give it to me as a birthday present!
I also bought a set of cheap folding saw horses from Canadian Tire. I love their promotions! They were on sale for $14.99 ea. with a claimed regular price of $64.99!!! Ya, right! I wonder how many they have sold at full price?!? By the way, I'm not expecting much out of them. I definitely won't be standing on them!
Cheers!!
Not to worry, Dave. I continue to follow your thread.
richhotrainI grew tired of the extended beer discussion
Rich,
I'm sorry that the thread disappointed you with the extended references to beer. I can appreciate your feelings. I am getting really frustrated with the delays that Covid-19 is imposing on my project. I have to clear space in the garage before I can order the wood but I can't do that until I have a yard sale. I have ordered some structure kits to fill the time but they won't likely be here for at least three weeks. I have tweaked the benchwork plan to the point where it is almost starting to bore me!
Oh well, chin up and carry on regardless! This nightmare will end eventually and we will get back to normal!
In Eastern Canada, it would be White Pine, which is definitely a softwood. Poplar, at least what I have seen around here, is harder.
Simon
I wasn't jumping on anyone, did you miss the ?
It's all in fun.
SeeYou190 richhotrain OK, I have been chastised twice Rich, I did not mean for that to seem like I was chastising you. I know I sometimes have a difficult time writing in the tone I intend. My appologies. -Kevin
richhotrain OK, I have been chastised twice
Rich, I did not mean for that to seem like I was chastising you. I know I sometimes have a difficult time writing in the tone I intend.
My appologies.
-Kevin
I grew tired of the extended beer discussion and then my friend Randy jumped on me. So, when I also heard from you, I figured that I should lighten up. I think that I must be suffering from cabin fever.
richhotrainOK, I have been chastised twice
Living the dream.
FlattenedQuarterPoplar is a harder
Several species of pine are harder than poplar - including the Southern Yellow Pine I use for my benchwork.
I have the right to remain silent. By posting here I have given up that right and accept that anything I say can and will be used as evidence to critique me.
Any self respecting lumber yard( not big box) will have 1*6 and 1*4 in pine and in 2foot increments starting @ 4'. Poplar is a harder, shorter grain wood and more apt to split.
I was at the local Lowes this weekend to get more supplies - I was expecting it to be kind of empty, nope, parking lot packed. Not a ton of people in the store based on the number of cars - but I think most were over in the garden section buying plants. Of course I used most of that all up already and now I have to go get more. Then I'm sort of stuck - the next part is some floor standing benchwork and I have all the old legs off my previous layout I want to reuse, but they are totally buried behind all the stuff stored in the garage..doh! The other option is to continue the way I've been going, finish the long wall where the yard will go and then build the moveable part in front of the furnace. Another load of 2x4s will get me to the point of where the moveable part will start, I'm not sure I have enough plywood to make all the horizontal pieces for all 3 levels to that point. I can get the plywood delivered though - if they are still open. I have to have it delivered anyway, it doesn't fit in my truck.
hon30critterOkay, I'm sorry for going off topic but since Covid-19 has brought construction to a halt, I'll have to talk about something.
Dave, no problem, we're all just having fun here!
Our local Menards started their 11% sale this week. I didn't think they would do this until all of this crap is over with, drawing a large crowd, and such. BUT, it's on! And I DO need to get some stuff.
Waiting to see your final design, and construction, at your pace.
Okay, I'm sorry for going off topic but since Covid-19 has brought construction to a halt, I'll have to talk about something.
I did make a small addition to the end support design. I'm going to put 9" x 48" shelves with a small lip on them on top of both end supports. They will be handy for all sorts of things like setting tools down, or opening rolling stock boxes once the scenery is done or setting down my beer!!
The reason for using a 9" width is that there will be exactly 18" left on the end of the 4x8 sheet of 3/4" plywood once all the other bits are cut from it. I checked the reach in distances and the shelves will not interfere with my ability to do the track installation on the ends of the benchwork. If they do become a problem they can easily be removed.
I should clarify my comment about not having access to most American beers. We do have the major brands but that's about it.
richhotrain if you can't beat them, join them.
Yep! Talked me into it! I'm about to sit down to a , only mine is the amber liquid over the rocks, before diner.
Speaking of diner, wasn't this thread about something on a rotisserie?
SeeYou190 richhotrain Too bad that this once interesting layout building thread has turned into a thread about beer. I am sure Dave will get the thread back on track and it will be interesting again. Meanwhile... nothing wrong with spending a little time in a siding.
richhotrain Too bad that this once interesting layout building thread has turned into a thread about beer.
I am sure Dave will get the thread back on track and it will be interesting again.
Meanwhile... nothing wrong with spending a little time in a siding.
The only beer worth drinking is Becks.
OK, and Sam Adams Boston Lager.
The rest of the stuff is pure crap.
Richard Beck
richhotrainToo bad that this once interesting layout building thread has turned into a thread about beer.
It would be disappointing, but it was the OP (Thread Owner) that started the beer discussion with this posting:
hon30critterI'm in Canada so I don't have the opportunity to sample most American beers. However, I can honestly state that those beers that I have tried that hail from south of the border have disappointed me greatly! I'm sure that Ulrich will agree that a good beer should have some body and distinctive flavour, and leave more in your gut than great big farts! There!!! That ought to get the debate roiling!!! Please be polite in your responses!