"One difference between pessimists and optimists is that while pessimists are more often right, optimists have far more fun."
PruittI'm looking for some different viewpoints on types of ceilings, heights, etc., so don't be shy! Please share your thoughts.
Hi Mark,
I definitely agree that you don't want a ceiling that is only 3" above your head. Claustrophobia immediately comes to mind. I can't tolerate being in places where I am squeezed in, either vertically or horizontally. You want to enjoy the space, not regret it.
I think your suggestion of boxing in the beams with drywall is the best way to go, but I'm not sure that you need to use 2x4s. Decent quality 2x2s will be plenty solid enough once the drywall is screwed into place. I say that despite the fact that I am going to build my layout strong enough to hold a Sherman tank. If you want to use 2x4s then go for it! I'd probably do the same.
Cheers!!
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
Pruitt AND... Even though it will be a couple months (at least) before I start the ceilings, I've started thinking about what to DO for a ceiling? I was planning on installing a nice flat drop ceiling throughout the basement, but in clearing the steel beams will leave the ceiling about 3" over my head. That will feel a bit closed-in, I'm thinking. I don't like the idea of a variable-height ceiling, but the best approach may be to box out around those beams and make the rest of the ceiling several inches higher (but low enough to clear the heating ducts and such) to provide decent head height throughout the rest of the basement. I can box the beams out easily enough with 2X4's and drywall, then maybe the drop ceilings everywhere else. I'm looking for some different viewpoints on types of ceilings, heights, etc., so don't be shy! Please share your thoughts.
AND...
Even though it will be a couple months (at least) before I start the ceilings, I've started thinking about what to DO for a ceiling?
I was planning on installing a nice flat drop ceiling throughout the basement, but in clearing the steel beams will leave the ceiling about 3" over my head. That will feel a bit closed-in, I'm thinking.
I don't like the idea of a variable-height ceiling, but the best approach may be to box out around those beams and make the rest of the ceiling several inches higher (but low enough to clear the heating ducts and such) to provide decent head height throughout the rest of the basement. I can box the beams out easily enough with 2X4's and drywall, then maybe the drop ceilings everywhere else.
I'm looking for some different viewpoints on types of ceilings, heights, etc., so don't be shy! Please share your thoughts.
New construction means the ceiling will be relatively clean with no years of dust accumulation falling on to the layout. Not that I ever experienced much of that. All of my layouts have been built in rooms with unfinished ceilings.
I would do nothing.
Except possibly painting it all black as to make any cluttered look disappear (an artist's trick). Never used it, but there is a product called dryfall. Its a sprayed paint that dries on the way down so the excess can be swept up from the floor.
- Douglas
I think I'd box out the beam with framing and drywall, and do the ceiling as close to the joist as you can, giving you all the head room you can get.
Are you still going to use the LED ceiling lights you had for the last version?
Mike.
My You Tube
Thanks for all the input, guys!
I especially like the recommendations to not do anything with it! Fits right in with my basic philosophy - when possible, do as little as you can.
Mike - Yes, I'm going to use the same lights. And I mean the same lights. I took them down at the old house and brought them with me.
Mark P.
Website: http://www.thecbandqinwyoming.comVideos: https://www.youtube.com/user/mabrunton
30 March 2020
Work continues. The last several days I spent laying additional OSB in several locations, and adding another studwall:
At this point I'm about 40% done with the walls, and 80% with the subfloor. By late April, at this rate, I should be able to start the electrical work.
3 April 2020
I've just posted my latest video update on YouTube.
No layout work yet, but work on the train room is progressing faster now!
Very nice and illustrative, Mark. My compiments to both of you for your teamwork and skills.
Sssoooo....will that mask do when you go to the store?
Another excellent video! Very informative and well edited.
Thanks,
You are to be envied, Mark. That is a rare wife who joins in on the construction phase.
Rich
Alton Junction
Thanks for the very nice comments, everyone!
Bear,
You're rapidly becoming one of my favorite people! Your suggestion will save a LOT of work!
Rich,
She joined in because she finally resigned herself to me playing with trains.
Pruitt Rich, She joined in because she finally resigned herself to me playing with trains.
14 April 2020
I finally finished the subroom floor, with the addition of a few final pieces:
There's about 25 feet of stud wall to finish, then this weekend I should be able to start the electrical, which shouldn't take too long. I can see the light at the end of the tunnel...
Mark, great video and good work on the room.
If you ever do decide to finish the ceiling, I found a system at Menards that is like a suspended ceiling, but attaches directly to the first floor joists. You only lose about one inch of clearance.
It took a little to learn, but I am happy with it. Recently, I needed to wire an outlet. I was able to remove the ceiling panels, run the wire, and put the ceiling back in place.
https://acpideas.com/brands/ceilingmax/
York1 John
Pruitt There's about 25 feet of stud wall to finish, then this weekend I should be able to start the electrical, which shouldn't take too long.
There's about 25 feet of stud wall to finish, then this weekend I should be able to start the electrical, which shouldn't take too long.
On duplex outlets, I always wire the left outlet 'hot' and the right outlet 'switched' to give me more flexibility. Also, I make generous use of 3-way switches to make switching as convenient as possible.
Nice update Mark! I know what you mean about watching yourself, videos and pictures.
That's quite a process you go through for screwing the OSB to the floor. I always go at jobs like that, like someone is watching and timing me. A left-over feeling from my work years.
I guess I could see leaving the ceiling exposed, it is nice and "new" looking yet. You'll have to get a little creative with hanging the lights, and the electrical.
In my work years, I've been on a few huge auditorium projects, and many of them had exposed ceilings, painted all one color, not all were black.
All the mechanicals were carefully laid out so it all looked neat and tidy.
Thanks for all the comments, guys!
John,
That's a great idea for the ceiling! I saw it many years ago, but had forgotten all about it. I'll certainly look into it!
You switch one socket in each outlet? That's a lot of wiring! Or do you mean you switch one outlet (two sockets) in each two-outlet (four socket) box you install?
I hadn't really thought about installing any 3-way switches, since there's only one way in and out anyway, but it might be nice to be able to switch off the room lights while inside the layout. I'll have to think about it...
Mike,
I've worked out a plan for hanging the lights that would include supports for the ceiling. I really like John's suggestion above. Getting up in the joists to paint everything isn't very appealing. It would all have to be brush painted, I think, to cover everything properly. And I'd still have the firberglass batting exposed between the joist ends.
BTW, I just took a peek at your YouTube channel. The latest video looks like it's two years old. How about posting something more recent?
Pruitt Rich, You switch one socket in each outlet? That's a lot of wiring! Or do you mean you switch one outlet (two sockets) in each two-outlet (four socket) box you install?
Well darn.
I was within spittin' distance of having all the stud walls done Saturday and starting electrical rough-ins today, as per plan, but Saturday afternoon I ran into a little snag.
Looking at my electrical plan, I decided to install train room light switches and dimmers to the train-room end of the wall that will run behind the stairs. I hadn't planned to install that wall until I finished the other side of the basement (off in the future after layout work is well underway), but putting the light switches on that wall instead of just around the corner in the train room means I have to install the long wall (about 9') now. Which of course means I'll have to install another sheet of OSB on the floor - now. But the switch position is much better than before, so it's worth the extra work now.
There's more of a complication, though -
The heat ducts run just about 4 1/2 inches from the short wall (4' long) that forms an outside corner with the 9' wall. Then on top of that the builder attached some water lines to the bottom of the joists between the duct and the wall on both walls! So those two walls will take extra work to install to avoid the water lines and the ducts. But I have a plan (we'll see how well it works).
So three or four more days of floor and wall, then I'll be able to start the electrical.
Finally - Stud walls are complete!
Here's a very short video of my wife cutting away a small corner section of the stud wall behind the stairs to provide clearance for a heating duct:
That particular wall was a bit more difficult than most of them, for reasons I mentioned in my previous post. Not particularly hard to solve, though - I made a couple of spacers out of two stacked pieces of red oak 1X2, and screwed those to the bottom of the joists:
Then it was an easy matter to install the stud wall by attaching the top to the spacers.
The 4' long stud wall in the center of this shot was the last wall. It went in this evening:
So tomorrow I'll be able to start electical rough-ins by placing outlet boxes. Other than lighting, I don't think the rough-ins will take more than a week or so to complete.
What a little trooper your wife is Mark.! I have a corded and cordless reciprocating saws I use for stuff like that. I also like those "Sharky" type short hand saws with the big teeth, they cut fast.
I used to have a reciprocating saw. It was ruined in a flood.
3 May 2020
I just posted the lastest construction update video:
Sorry, but still no layout construction. Train room preparation isn't my favorite thing, but it is necessary. At least it's progressing at a decent pace now. I may be abe to begin working on the layout within the next few months!
Nice update Mark!
You can also drill pilot holes for screws, to stop splitting the wood.
It looks like you have a space between the drywall and the floor, which is perfect. You should leave about a 1/2". When I don't have my drywall foot jacks, I use pieces of 1/2" OSB, or plywood, or whatever I have.
Great progress! Looks very professional.
You mentioned that you will be starting to apply drywall compound in May. I have a suggestion that could save a lot of the mess associated with sanding. My brother taught me to use a moist sponge to smooth the drywall compound. There is no dust involved! It helps if the compound has been applied as smoothly as possible, and it requires a gentle touch, but it works well at least for me. The sponge has to be rinsed frequently. There are drywall sponges specific to the job available.
I use a sponge, as well, when ever possible. WAY less dust, and you still can achieve a smooth finish.
Great progress, Mark. BTW that ceiling looks Good.
Cheers, the Bear.
I echo the others, Mark. You and your wife are making great progress, and the results look great. You should be starting benchwork some time in late June if things go well.
Hey, thanks for noticing, Bear! I really spent a lot of time to make that ceiling something special!