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FASTRACK and Postwar trains and accessories

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FASTRACK and Postwar trains and accessories
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, March 12, 2004 9:40 AM
Well, I have just completed my 12 x 16 ft L shaped FASTRACK layout. I have two sidings, a figure 8 cross over and eight manual O-36 manual switches. Overall I'm quite pleased. So, how does Postwar operate on the track?
Things that work:
- Using the O gauge transition pieces I have incorporated the 495 Coal loader
- 260 bumpers by using 1/2 length O gauge track
- O gauge operating track
- #153 block signals and #151 semaphores with the 153 IR track activator.
- #364 Conveyor lumber loader
- #182 magnetic crane
- # 450 double signal bridge
- Postwar Steam engines #, 224, 1666, 675, 2016, 2018, 2020, 2035, 2026, 2055, 2046, 2056
- Diesel engines like the 6250 Seaboard switcher, 2321 Lackawanna FM

What doesn’t work:

- # 362 barrel loader (it can’t sit close enough to FASTRACK because of the road bed)
- #726 rr Berkshire, it stalls on the FASTRACK Switches (its my only Berkshire so I don’t know if it’s the engine or all Berkshire)
Anyone else have experiences to share with FASTRACK?
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Posted by pennsy_fan on Friday, March 12, 2004 12:16 PM
Hi jbolton364
I was just wondering about the 362 barrel loader. Do you think it might work w/fastrack if you removed the track clips &set it right next to the road bed, or is the gap between the track & car just too great?Ill bet w/the flap on the top of the 362, it'll still @ least load from loader to car. I dont have fastrack, I was thinking about investing in some, though. (then again, maybe not)
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Posted by Big_Boy_4005 on Friday, March 12, 2004 12:19 PM
Do you have any electrical blocks or insulated sections on this layout? And if so how did you do that? I'm very curious.
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Posted by Anonymous on Friday, March 12, 2004 2:11 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by Big_Boy_4005

Do you have any electrical blocks or insulated sections on this layout? And if so how did you do that? I'm very curious.


No. In fact I only have one terminal track section powering the whole layout. I have almost 50 feet of track and no noticable slow downs. The electrical connectivity is excellent.
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Posted by Big_Boy_4005 on Friday, March 12, 2004 4:39 PM
Thank you for the answer Joe. The reason that I asked, is not that I am thinking of using Fastrack, but because I want to help people understand some of the products limitations as it is currently designed.

For your purposes, it seems to be just fine, but for more complicated layout designs it may have some very basic shortcomings. Unless Lionel plans to make some special sections in the future, it is very difficult to insulate the center rail. I believe they have sections of insulated outside rail.

Sorry, I forgot to ask before, how is the noise level?? From what you have said before, it sounds like you only have postwar equipment.
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Posted by Anonymous on Friday, March 12, 2004 5:32 PM
From Elliot: Sorry, I forgot to ask before, how is the noise level?? From what you have said before, it sounds like you only have postwar equipment.

Hi Elliot, I do have an exstensive Postwar roster but I also run new Lionel trains. In fact I just picked up the Lionmaster Hudson. No problems with the Railsounds being overwelmed by the FASTRACk roadbed. Its even quiet when I turn the Railsounds volume down to zero.
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Posted by Big_Boy_4005 on Friday, March 12, 2004 5:45 PM
Thanks again Joe, now let's see if anyone else sees this topic. So far, it's mostly been you and me talkin', but I'm going to shut up now.[swg]
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Posted by Anonymous on Friday, March 12, 2004 5:56 PM
That's okay--you guys talk! But I am wondering OF COURSE about the sound. I put my test track up on a plywood benchwork and the sound is terrible! I'll wait for the answer, although I'm not switching because as Elliot said earlier, there's no way to make a control block because you can't insulate the center rail. BTW, I have all this FasTrack I purchased for my tests and won't be using it. I will list it all on eBay unless someone here wants to offer me a deal on it. Email me and we can work something out.
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Posted by Dr. John on Friday, March 12, 2004 6:49 PM
Just wondering -

Is there a transition piece available between Fastrack and tubular? If so, that would help with clearance problems like with the barrell loader.
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Posted by Anonymous on Friday, March 12, 2004 7:46 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by Dr. John

Just wondering -

Is there a transition piece available between Fastrack and tubular? If so, that would help with clearance problems like with the barrell loader.

Hi Dr. John! Yes, O guage transition peices are availalbe for FASTRACK. You could use one to connect to a lenght of O-31 tubular track to place the 362 barrel loader next too. It would work. However, I was hoping to place the barrel loader next to the FASTRACK section.
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Posted by Dr. John on Friday, March 12, 2004 9:29 PM
Joe,

This might be a little drastic, but what about sawing away some of the roadbed on a section of Fastrack to allow for accessory clearance? A little ballast or ground foam would disguise the cut.
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Posted by Kooljock1 on Saturday, March 13, 2004 4:33 AM
Some of these things are solved easier than you think!

First, OF COURSE FasTrack is gonna be loud when placed on plywood! You've just created a sound-board! Sound travels MUCH louder through plywood. Screw your FasTrack down to Homasote, and you'll cut way down on the noise.

Secondly, to create insulated blocks, simply grab your Dremel Tool with a cutting disk, and make a break in the middle rail.

Done!

I WOULD like to see a FasTrack OCS section to fit the Milk Car platform, and a way to trigger the Operating Brakeman car, Tie Jector, Giraffe Car, Cattle Car etc...

Jon [8D]
Now broadcasting world-wide at http://www.wkol.com Weekdays 5:00 AM-10:00AM!
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Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, March 13, 2004 5:12 AM
QUOTE: Originally posted by Dr. John

Joe,

This might be a little drastic, but what about sawing away some of the roadbed on a section of Fastrack to allow for accessory clearance? A little ballast or ground foam would disguise the cut.


Hi Dr. John,
That is an idea. Another one I'm considering is redesigning the swinging gate so that it's longer. That might work also.
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Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, March 13, 2004 5:16 AM
I WOULD like to see a FasTrack OCS section to fit the Milk Car platform, and a way to trigger the Operating Brakeman car, Tie Jector, Giraffe Car, Cattle Car etc...
Jon

Jon, I agree. What Lionel needs is an operaing Fastrack section that is narrow enough to fit inside these accessories.
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Posted by majorjkg on Saturday, January 15, 2005 5:02 PM
This is the first place I have seen anyone address creating insulated blocks wiht Fastrack. The Dremel tool idea sounds good. I know lionel cuts an outside rail to create the accessory activator pack. I was thinking I could pull the center pins but cutting the center rail sounds more elegant and could be done after the track is assembled and screwed down. Has anyone tried to cut Fastrack to create an "odd" length? After many years absence, I have just reentered the field of model railroading and am in the process of building a mid-sized layout with Fastrack which I'm sure will need, at least four power districts (blocks). I haven't paid any attention to model railroading for 16 years, boy was I surprised to find "O" scale Command Control and articulated locomotives running on O-31 track!!! P.S.: Sure am glad I went with Homasote, another recent learning experience.
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Posted by spankybird on Saturday, January 15, 2005 6:45 PM
Hi majorjkg,

QUOTE: boy was I surprised to find "O" scale Command Control and articulated locomotives running on O-31 track!!!

Heck with 031, check out my web page (icon below) and see articulated on 027, be sure to click on the links to see video of them.
tom

I am a person with a very active inner child. This is why my wife loves me so. Willoughby, Ohio - the home of the CP & E RR. OTTS Founder www.spankybird.shutterfly.com 

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Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, January 15, 2005 7:29 PM
Hellok I am new to the hobby. What is Homasote? And where can you get it? thanks
Larry
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Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, January 15, 2005 8:33 PM
I have just finished an 8x12 Fastrack layout with several insulated and isolated blocks. First turn the track over and bend the tabs up on the rail you wi***o cut, (If you dont raise the rail from the roadbed you will not be able to cut it through without damage to the roadbed) then pu***he tabs through the slots and the rail will raise away from the roadbed. Raising the rail like this reduces the chances of bending the rail like you may by trying to pull it up. Once you have the rail raised put a screwdriver or something between it and the roadbed to keep it from moving back down when you make your cut. Then cut it with a dremel tool, push it back down and bend the tabs back over.

This is my first layout so I don't have anything to compare it to but it is somewhat noisy. I have 1/2' foam on 3/8" plywood and still seem like a drum effect. I did have it right on the plywood at first and must say the 1/2" foam did reduce the noise a good bit. I am going to try a 1/4" foam product called sill sealer under the Fastrack to see if that helps. The sill sealer is 1/4" thick x 4” wide and comes in rolls used to seal the foundation of a house to the walls usually its in the insulation area of a home center and is pink (Owens Corning) or blue (Dow). I also plan to curtain the perimeter of the bench to the floor with some type of cloth to absorb the noise that way too.
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Posted by HappyApple on Tuesday, December 28, 2021 3:02 PM

I see that you can use postwar accessories on fastrack but how can I connect them/ what do I use?....I truly appreciate your time and help....Tony

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Posted by 8ntruck on Thursday, December 30, 2021 12:38 PM

Lionel does make insulating sections for Fastrack.  They are small 1 3/8" sections with an interrupted center rail.  There is a jumper wire underneath that you remove to make a block isolater,

To make custom lengths of Fastrack, I built a cutoff sled for my table saw that held the track section to be cut at 90 degrees to the blade ans also supported the track section right up to the blade.  I used a carbide tipped blade with a high tooth count and fed the track into the blade very slowly.

After cutting, I used pieces of nails that slid into the rails to support the joint and glued the section together with an all purpose pic pipe cement.

 

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