In August, my GF and I are planning a trip to Japan. Two things -- besides the trains themselves -- make this an exciting prospect. My GF speaks fluent Japanese and she likes to travle by train.
We'll have the Japanese full version of the Railpass. The GF is familiar with the trains she used to take just getting around when she lived there, but she acknowledges this is primarily mainline and Shinkansen routes. I'd like my share of that, but we'd both like to get off the beaten path and travel on branchlines, lines with especialy spectacular scenery, and some of the reaally unique private lines. Recommenedations on good tourist railroads would be a bonus.
Finally, are there any routes that still offer sleeping cars?
What suggestion or experiences do you have that could help us out?
Mike Lehman
Urbana, IL
A gentle bump, in case someone can help me out.
If not, then maybe I should think about writing a book in English on the rich and diverse railfanning that can be found in Japan?
Maybe this will help get discussion started. It's reported that there are a number of railroad-themed bars that cater to both RR workers and railfans. Anyone have leads on any? Railfanning can be a thirsty business, although I hear that you don't actually need a bar -- RR or otherwise -- to quench your thirst when out and about. Handy beer vending machines are common and as long as you behave, drinking and traniwatching is possible in many public places where you'd be treated like an old wino for the same behavior in the US.
Try this:-
http://www.japaneserailwaysociety.com/
If you need more info I know one of the guys involved with this group fairly well. E-mail me and I'll pass you his details on.
Hi Mike,
Can't say I traveled much on Japanese branchlines back in october 2000. Shinkansen from Kyoto to Fukuoka was boring (much in tunnels and we arrived after dark, it gets dark early).
One branchline we traveld on was from Kumamoto to Mt. Aso on the southern island of Kyushu (Mt Aso is a big volcano you can visit if there is not much sulphur coming out of it). By the way, Kumamoto has a big castle (site of last insurgence of feudal minded Japanese if I remember correctly). You get there by streetcar.
Also nice, but mainline, was to Nagasaki, of atomic bomb fame. Some running along the bay that divides the south half of Kyushu in two. Nagasaki also has a streetcarsystem. Atomic bomb museum was impressive but they let the story begin in 1943.... typical denial of their own involvement in the war.
East of Kyoto is Nara, first capital. Nice small place, usual wooden temple, good muesum and a park with irritating deer right into the city center. East is Mt Koya / Koyasan, a plateau with lots of temples / monasteries. You can get rooms there. Both JR and a "private" railway can get you there (from Osaka and Nara respectively) with change of trains I think for the JR train. That line has also a switchback right next to a station. The private railway runs a branchline into a valley at the foot of Koyasan and you then change to a cablecar (the Japanese pronounce this something like cablucarru). We took the private railway back to Osaka and ended up in a large department store. Many of these private railways are owned by conglomerates who also own department stores. Kyoto has several private railways that run partly as subways. One tramway type line runs into the mountains north of the city.
From Tokyo there is a private line towards the park around Mt. Fuji, forgot its name. It changes to an interurban with some mixed running to Hakone. The interurban has some switchbacks but I didn't travel all the way.
If you go to Nikko, north of Tokyo, (shrine for Tokugawa c.s., famous bridge and an imperial palace you can visit) you go best by private railway (Tobu Nikko?), has some nice contrasts between the city and countryside (some large riverbridges e.g.). Also better service. When there also go up to the lake. Nice scenery and plenty off switchback for the road traffic.
We went from Tokyo into the mountains west and somewhat further to Takayama (nice historical district and open air museum!) and from there to Kyoto by bus. Spectacular scenery, should be equally so by JR mainline.
Well, that is it from the top of my head. I shall try to find some pictures and post them.
greetings,
Marc Immeker
As an afterthought: do write that book! I will appreciate that.
Matsuda to Gotemba (near Mt. Fuji) is a very picturesque ride. I know Matsuda is a hub station coming off the Kanto Plain, but I'm not sure if the line goes beyond Gotemba or not. It's been about twelve years since I visited Japan.
Look up Japanese steam locomotives on Flickr.com. There are many pictures of surviving Japanese steam, under steam doing excursion runs. One is a rather nice-looking 4-6-4.
Be sure to shoot any Pokemon or Sailor Moons that you might run into while you are over there! Those shows are EVIL! And if you run into anyone named Ryo Seaba, RUN, that also goes for anyone with a nickname of Battousai. (Pronounced Baa-toe-sai). Ask your Girlfriend what Battousai means.
If your going to Tokyo, be sure to visit the Shinjuku District, theres alot of shopping and pinchiko (SP?) halls there. Theres alot to do when in Japan, but be prepared to spend alot of money! The yen is currently higher then the USD, I think. Also, go to a Sumo match, thats a Traditional Japanese sport and any visit to the country is not complete untill you go to one. The #1 Sumo champ in Japan right now is an American from Hazelwood, Missouri. (Hey! Thats next to Florissant!)
Have fun, and be sure to shoot lots of video. I wish I was going!
Everyone,
Thanks for the tips. This is going to help a lot with planning.
As for a railfanning Japan book, I'll think about it. Maybe an article for Trains. We'll see. I've got a dissertation to research and write, but I may need the diversion of a good side project.
If I remember correctly those pachinko machines use little steel balls and there are a lot of them in one building making a lot of noise. Bit of a cross between bingo and slot machines.
The Tokyo-Hakone route marcimmeker mentioned calls for a Shinjuku-Odawara run on the Odawara Express Railway, followed by a climb up the mountain on the Hakone Tozan Tetsudo. The Odakyu is 1067mm gauge, and features high speed express service. The other is a standard gauge (and the two share a stretch of dual gauge!) cross between a streetcar and a mountain goat - 33m radius curves, 80/1000 grades, switchbacks, tunnels... At the top, you can take the ropeway over to the lake, with spectacular views of the sunny side of Fujisan all the way.
One of the little gems of Japanese railroading near Tokyo is the Ohme-sen. It runs from Tachikawa (on the Chu-o Sen) up the valley (becomes a canyon!) of the Tamagawa. Lower end is all bedroom communities, upper end is spectacularly scenic. At Ohme there is a railroad park not too far from the station with a nice collection of ex-JNR motive power, including the only one of the five E10 class 2-10-4Ts to be preserved.
Enjoy your trip. I envy you!
Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
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