Often photos and negatives from decades past are discovered and shared. Check Trains for how often an old photo find is shared, or is the inspiration for a story. How much will be lost on digital remains to be seen.
Many digital photos never are put to paper. How many will disappear with the discarding of the storage medium. Hard drive, or CD ROM, etc. what will still be retrievable if found?
I have done weddings over the years for friends and relatives. I shoot on 2.25" X 2.25" film. I give them the proofs and negatives. Lately, they also get a CD ROM. I tell them to retain the negatives above all else.
narig01 I still like my Minolta SRT 201. I get the film processed and converted to a CD then stash the negatives. I would like to hear what kind of recommendations people have for an easy to use digital. IE something not more complicated than the Minolta. When shooting still subjects I tend to bracket (go 1 f stop above and below the meter) the exposure to see how it turns out. I have yet to understand how to do this with a digital. Thx IGN
I still like my Minolta SRT 201. I get the film processed and converted to a CD then stash the negatives.
I would like to hear what kind of recommendations people have for an easy to use digital. IE something not more complicated than the Minolta. When shooting still subjects I tend to bracket (go 1 f stop above and below the meter) the exposure to see how it turns out. I have yet to understand how to do this with a digital.
Thx IGN
You can do a similar action using a digital, but instead of a quick twist of the F-stop ring where you can FEEL that you have made a change, and with practice you will know which way to turn it and not have to even take the camera from your eye;
With a digital camera is it much simpler! You merely have to press the "MENU: button to bring up the menu, then press the "LEFT" or "RIGHT" button to select the appropriate Sub-menu, then press the "UP" or "DOWN" button to select the Function you want access to, such as the Simulated F-Stop setup, Then you can press the :SELECT" button again to activate that Menu function. Again, using the "UP" and "DOWN" buttons you can pick the Simulated F-Stop you desire; then press the "SELECT" button again to "set" the selection to be the one the camera will use, and then press "MENU" again to return the camera to the state where you can take a photo of the scene... A scene that is now long gone, but that's okay, it is now too dark outside to take a photo at that F-stop setting anyway.
Semper Vaporo
Pkgs.
Life is analog.
_____________
"A stranger's just a friend you ain't met yet." --- Dave Gardner
I dabble in digital with the wife's camera. Until I find a camera as much fun to use as my OM4, I'll stick with it.
Semper Vaporo narig01: I still like my Minolta SRT 201. I get the film processed and converted to a CD then stash the negatives. I would like to hear what kind of recommendations people have for an easy to use digital. IE something not more complicated than the Minolta. When shooting still subjects I tend to bracket (go 1 f stop above and below the meter) the exposure to see how it turns out. I have yet to understand how to do this with a digital. Thx IGN You can do a similar action using a digital, but instead of a quick twist of the F-stop ring where you can FEEL that you have made a change, and with practice you will know which way to turn it and not have to even take the camera from your eye; With a digital camera is it much simpler! You merely have to press the "MENU: button to bring up the menu, then press the "LEFT" or "RIGHT" button to select the appropriate Sub-menu, then press the "UP" or "DOWN" button to select the Function you want access to, such as the Simulated F-Stop setup, Then you can press the :SELECT" button again to activate that Menu function. Again, using the "UP" and "DOWN" buttons you can pick the Simulated F-Stop you desire; then press the "SELECT" button again to "set" the selection to be the one the camera will use, and then press "MENU" again to return the camera to the state where you can take a photo of the scene... A scene that is now long gone, but that's okay, it is now too dark outside to take a photo at that F-stop setting anyway.
narig01: I still like my Minolta SRT 201. I get the film processed and converted to a CD then stash the negatives. I would like to hear what kind of recommendations people have for an easy to use digital. IE something not more complicated than the Minolta. When shooting still subjects I tend to bracket (go 1 f stop above and below the meter) the exposure to see how it turns out. I have yet to understand how to do this with a digital. Thx IGN
You can do this very rapidly while you're outside in the cold and wearing gloves!
Still shooting film. I started out back in 1974 shooting Ecktachrome (didn't know any better), switched to Kodachrome, and made the switch to Velvia & Provia in 2004. I actually enjoy the anticipation of the arrival of that little yellow box, now green, in the mail. Holding and viewing the slides for the first time is something that cannot be rivaled by anything else in photography. I'll probably go digital when I'm forced to. Maybe by then, a full sensor DSLR will be affordable. I did break down and buy a film scanner this month, so maybe I'm slowly accepting the digital life, but I don't believe in photo manipulation, so my editing will be limited. There's a discipline that can only be learned in film photography. I feel sorry for the shooters that have only used digital cameras; they have been deprived of great self-taught lessons.
Victrola1 Many digital photos never are put to paper. How many will disappear with the discarding of the storage medium. Hard drive, or CD ROM, etc. what will still be retrievable if found?
This is already becoming a real problem. My father began working on a family genealogy shortly before he retired and stored his research on a computer file. After he died, my sister located the file but had no way of getting it opened. Much of his work appears to have been lost as a result.
When it comes to genealogy type files, you need the software package that was being used by your father. If you don't have access to that PC, try to google the file extension to see what software packages use that extension.
Darren (BLHS & CRRM Lifetime Member)
Delaware and Hudson Virtual Museum (DHVM), Railroad Adventures (RRAdventures)
My Blog
CSSHEGEWISCH Victrola1: Many digital photos never are put to paper. How many will disappear with the discarding of the storage medium. Hard drive, or CD ROM, etc. what will still be retrievable if found? This is already becoming a real problem. My father began working on a family genealogy shortly before he retired and stored his research on a computer file. After he died, my sister located the file but had no way of getting it opened. Much of his work appears to have been lost as a result.
Victrola1: Many digital photos never are put to paper. How many will disappear with the discarding of the storage medium. Hard drive, or CD ROM, etc. what will still be retrievable if found?
I've already made TIFF copies of all of my Nikon NEF files. That way, should Nikon's format ever go extinct, I've always got the TIFF backups. Not only that, I have JPEG backups of all my photos as well--triple redundancy.
And to show how much I try to cover my bases, not only do I have my photos backed up on an external hard drive, that drive is not even kept in the same building as my main computer (I keep it at a friend;'s house miles away).
Good thing I'm not obsessive.....
I made the switch to digital about eight years ago. Took some adjustment, but after not being able to purchase film locally, not being able to get it processed locally, etc. I bought an Olympus C5050 to replace my Olympus OM-1, (I started with an old Nikon S2). Took some adjustment, but I would not go back. I now shoot a Nikon D90, very very happy with the camera. Just as fast or faster than the OM-1. Cost with two lens, etc. about $1400. Add the laptop computer, software, etc. Th OM-1 cost about $400 back in 1979, additional lens cost $100s more. Big money back then. I really appreciate no more cost for film and developing. But even more I am not longer searching for film, not waiting for developing.
I remember developing my own negatives and printing my own B/W, using an old twin lens reflex. Lots of enjoyment, but lots of time and concentration. Now it is fire up the computer and Photoshop. Just as enjoyable. And I know if the photo is good, as soon as I take it. Which is great when working on an article for a magazine or website.
I am still a film camera user. The camera is a Pentax Zoom, it still works great and as long as it does and I can get film, I will continue to use it. Takes great pics.
One advantage to digital, of course, is getting to preview your picture and if it's no good, you can retake it on the spot. My cousin gave me her digital camera when she upgraded, but the flash is not as strong as my film camera.
I'm sure I will have to go digital someday, but for now, I'm sticking with film.
My father had an 8mm Bell & Howell movie camera and we used on steam trips pulled by CB&Q #4960. I did have the movies transferred to VHS tapes, but soon that will be obsolete too.
I read with interest the comments about shutter delay. I've noticed that too when I took pics at a local train show. I'd press the shutter down as the train was coming, but it had partly passed by when the pic took. I'll have to try the tips mentioned here.
I have been getting a CD made when I get the film developed, so I can post pics on Facebook and send them around to friends. Also gives me a backup with negs and CD. I have had a CD made too with the pics I've taken so far with the digital camera I've started using also. I don't like the idea of just having something stored in a computer, I've had virus cleanouts by Dell and everything goes when they do a mass purge to get rid of a really nasty virus.
Film will become art material. Like tubes of artists oils, its distribution will be limited and its cost go up.
Use of a film camera will make one an arteeist. As with a blind eye pushing a brush, the tool itself does not mean you are a great arteeist.
I had lost many pictures stored on a CD gone bad. I remember that years ago if you did not store your negatives in a clean cool dry place they could also go bad .I started some research to see if I could store photos long term and found a company in the USA that sells a kit that has DVD's that will last for 100 or more years! Maybe with proper storage and records these discs will outlast many generations and be of value to our next group of historians and fans, Here is a link for that website.
http://runtechmedia.com/product.asp?sku=EXT3ARCBNRKIT&a=21
dmoore74 Semper Vaporo: narig01: I still like my Minolta SRT 201. I get the film processed and converted to a CD then stash the negatives. I would like to hear what kind of recommendations people have for an easy to use digital. IE something not more complicated than the Minolta. When shooting still subjects I tend to bracket (go 1 f stop above and below the meter) the exposure to see how it turns out. I have yet to understand how to do this with a digital. Thx IGN You can do a similar action using a digital, but instead of a quick twist of the F-stop ring where you can FEEL that you have made a change, and with practice you will know which way to turn it and not have to even take the camera from your eye; With a digital camera is it much simpler! You merely have to press the "MENU: button to bring up the menu, then press the "LEFT" or "RIGHT" button to select the appropriate Sub-menu, then press the "UP" or "DOWN" button to select the Function you want access to, such as the Simulated F-Stop setup, Then you can press the :SELECT" button again to activate that Menu function. Again, using the "UP" and "DOWN" buttons you can pick the Simulated F-Stop you desire; then press the "SELECT" button again to "set" the selection to be the one the camera will use, and then press "MENU" again to return the camera to the state where you can take a photo of the scene... A scene that is now long gone, but that's okay, it is now too dark outside to take a photo at that F-stop setting anyway. You can do this very rapidly while you're outside in the cold and wearing gloves!
Semper Vaporo: narig01: I still like my Minolta SRT 201. I get the film processed and converted to a CD then stash the negatives. I would like to hear what kind of recommendations people have for an easy to use digital. IE something not more complicated than the Minolta. When shooting still subjects I tend to bracket (go 1 f stop above and below the meter) the exposure to see how it turns out. I have yet to understand how to do this with a digital. Thx IGN You can do a similar action using a digital, but instead of a quick twist of the F-stop ring where you can FEEL that you have made a change, and with practice you will know which way to turn it and not have to even take the camera from your eye; With a digital camera is it much simpler! You merely have to press the "MENU: button to bring up the menu, then press the "LEFT" or "RIGHT" button to select the appropriate Sub-menu, then press the "UP" or "DOWN" button to select the Function you want access to, such as the Simulated F-Stop setup, Then you can press the :SELECT" button again to activate that Menu function. Again, using the "UP" and "DOWN" buttons you can pick the Simulated F-Stop you desire; then press the "SELECT" button again to "set" the selection to be the one the camera will use, and then press "MENU" again to return the camera to the state where you can take a photo of the scene... A scene that is now long gone, but that's okay, it is now too dark outside to take a photo at that F-stop setting anyway.
Wow, you really need a better camera. I mean, come on, every camera I've ever used had aperture (What the hell is simulated F-stop anyway?) no farther than a button press away, and my current camera has it on a wheel. My pocket camera even has it on a wheel on the lens!
Go here for my rail shots! http://www.railpictures.net/showphotos.php?userid=9296
Building the CPR Kootenay division in N scale, blog here: http://kootenaymodelrailway.wordpress.com/
trainboyH16-44 dmoore74: Semper Vaporo: narig01: I still like my Minolta SRT 201. I get the film processed and converted to a CD then stash the negatives. I would like to hear what kind of recommendations people have for an easy to use digital. IE something not more complicated than the Minolta. When shooting still subjects I tend to bracket (go 1 f stop above and below the meter) the exposure to see how it turns out. I have yet to understand how to do this with a digital. Thx IGN You can do a similar action using a digital, but instead of a quick twist of the F-stop ring where you can FEEL that you have made a change, and with practice you will know which way to turn it and not have to even take the camera from your eye; With a digital camera is it much simpler! You merely have to press the "MENU: button to bring up the menu, then press the "LEFT" or "RIGHT" button to select the appropriate Sub-menu, then press the "UP" or "DOWN" button to select the Function you want access to, such as the Simulated F-Stop setup, Then you can press the :SELECT" button again to activate that Menu function. Again, using the "UP" and "DOWN" buttons you can pick the Simulated F-Stop you desire; then press the "SELECT" button again to "set" the selection to be the one the camera will use, and then press "MENU" again to return the camera to the state where you can take a photo of the scene... A scene that is now long gone, but that's okay, it is now too dark outside to take a photo at that F-stop setting anyway. You can do this very rapidly while you're outside in the cold and wearing gloves! Wow, you really need a better camera. I mean, come on, every camera I've ever used had aperture (What the hell is simulated F-stop anyway?) no farther than a button press away, and my current camera has it on a wheel. My pocket camera even has it on a wheel on the lens!
dmoore74: Semper Vaporo: narig01: I still like my Minolta SRT 201. I get the film processed and converted to a CD then stash the negatives. I would like to hear what kind of recommendations people have for an easy to use digital. IE something not more complicated than the Minolta. When shooting still subjects I tend to bracket (go 1 f stop above and below the meter) the exposure to see how it turns out. I have yet to understand how to do this with a digital. Thx IGN You can do a similar action using a digital, but instead of a quick twist of the F-stop ring where you can FEEL that you have made a change, and with practice you will know which way to turn it and not have to even take the camera from your eye; With a digital camera is it much simpler! You merely have to press the "MENU: button to bring up the menu, then press the "LEFT" or "RIGHT" button to select the appropriate Sub-menu, then press the "UP" or "DOWN" button to select the Function you want access to, such as the Simulated F-Stop setup, Then you can press the :SELECT" button again to activate that Menu function. Again, using the "UP" and "DOWN" buttons you can pick the Simulated F-Stop you desire; then press the "SELECT" button again to "set" the selection to be the one the camera will use, and then press "MENU" again to return the camera to the state where you can take a photo of the scene... A scene that is now long gone, but that's okay, it is now too dark outside to take a photo at that F-stop setting anyway. You can do this very rapidly while you're outside in the cold and wearing gloves!
Semper Vaporo:
narig01: I still like my Minolta SRT 201. I get the film processed and converted to a CD then stash the negatives. I would like to hear what kind of recommendations people have for an easy to use digital. IE something not more complicated than the Minolta. When shooting still subjects I tend to bracket (go 1 f stop above and below the meter) the exposure to see how it turns out. I have yet to understand how to do this with a digital. Thx IGN You can do a similar action using a digital, but instead of a quick twist of the F-stop ring where you can FEEL that you have made a change, and with practice you will know which way to turn it and not have to even take the camera from your eye; With a digital camera is it much simpler! You merely have to press the "MENU: button to bring up the menu, then press the "LEFT" or "RIGHT" button to select the appropriate Sub-menu, then press the "UP" or "DOWN" button to select the Function you want access to, such as the Simulated F-Stop setup, Then you can press the :SELECT" button again to activate that Menu function. Again, using the "UP" and "DOWN" buttons you can pick the Simulated F-Stop you desire; then press the "SELECT" button again to "set" the selection to be the one the camera will use, and then press "MENU" again to return the camera to the state where you can take a photo of the scene... A scene that is now long gone, but that's okay, it is now too dark outside to take a photo at that F-stop setting anyway.
narig01:
I still like my Minolta SRT 201. I get the film processed and converted to a CD then stash the negatives. I would like to hear what kind of recommendations people have for an easy to use digital. IE something not more complicated than the Minolta. When shooting still subjects I tend to bracket (go 1 f stop above and below the meter) the exposure to see how it turns out. I have yet to understand how to do this with a digital. Thx IGN
You obviously don't shop at Wally*Whorled, TarGuts or K-smart for your cameras and you probably have never seen a digital camera for less than a $1000 (or maybe $2000).
I have taken several cameras all apart and there is NO "iris" to limit the amount of light that enters. There are nothing but buttons on the back and top and everything is "digital" including a "SIMULATION" of limiting the amount of light entering in that it is nothing more than a change in the voltage on the sensor chip to vary how much output it makes for any given amount of light that strikes it.
There are two tiny motors in the lens system, one to push them out and retract them when you turn the camera on and off and to change the zoom level, and one to adjust the internal spacing of the lenses for Focus.
(By the way: should you decide to dissassemble a camera like I have done, listen to this voice of experience... there is a capacitor inside that holds the high Voltage power for the flash and even LONG AFTER the camera has been turned off and the batteries removed, it can still have enough charge to make you involuntarily throw the camera clean across the room and behind the sofa! And when you are on the floor trying to retrieve the remains, there will be enough charge to make your arm rip the dust scrim on the bottom of the sofa when you inadvertantly touch it again! Trust me, I know! )
Okay, I admit that I found one that had a third motor that controlled a mechanical Iris, but it was a more expensive camera (but it didn't withstand the abuse a teenager can give any more than the cheapie cameras did). But the only external control of that motor was a set of numbers in a menu that were selectable by pressing the correct sequence of buttons to get to them and then the correct sequence to remember a selection... and any deviation from the correct sequence negated everything and you had to start over. And the somewhat non-intuitive button names and purposes (or rather, variation in purposes depending on which menu item was selected) and the small area in which the buttons are placed makes it extremely easy to hit the wrong button, even if you were trying to hit the right one.
But the point is, there are no direct action manual controls -- rings, or sliders -- just push-buttons and an on-screen menu of functions and settings to choose from using the buttons.
Per Semper Vaporo: I've only taken one camera apart in my life, a 1905 Kodak folder with a balky shutter. Can't imagine why it was balky, it was only 80 years old at the time. Anyway, it took 20 minutes to get it apart, and 3 hours to get it back together again! Never again!
ericsp I still use film. When I have it developed I have them scanned to a CD. The resolution is probably lower than if I used digital but I have the photographs saved on three media. I may switch to a higher quality film or ISO200 film so that it is not as grainy. I also use a Pentax K1000 camera that is older than me.
I still use film. When I have it developed I have them scanned to a CD. The resolution is probably lower than if I used digital but I have the photographs saved on three media. I may switch to a higher quality film or ISO200 film so that it is not as grainy. I also use a Pentax K1000 camera that is older than me.
Glad to hear that someone still uses a Pentax K1000. Bought mine new sometime between 1979 and 1982. Haven't used it or any other camera in a long time; just kind of lost interest somehow.
I quit using film in 2007 when I stopped using my Minolta for a Pentax K100D. Then I upgraded last year to a Canon T3i kit (body + two IS lenses) for $1200, so the cost to go digital with amazing quality is rather low. Plus if you already have a Canon Rebel, those lenses will still work.
I don't understand a lot of the frustration with the half-press focus. That option has been around on most camera's for at least the last 20 years, and certainly on all digitalis with variable focus (from cheap point and shoots to your professional DSLR). I find it more convenient as I can quickly take a shot, drop my zoom, refocus and grab another shot in very little time.
I'd gather if you are having frustration with the half-press zoom you probably didn't understand the technology you were buying, which most problems can always be answered by reading the manual (no matter how thick it is). Unless you had always shot with completely manual lenses, no variable lenses, or disposable cameras, the half-press focus has been an inherent design to the SLR (digital or film) and most other point and shoot cameras for the past two decades.
Bracketing was mentioned, and it can easily be done with the modern DSLR no problem. On mine, I can set it to be default in a certain mode on the wheel, and then quickly toggle out of it so I'm not taking 3 shot bursts on moving objects. I find bracketing only to be worth while on slow moving or stationary objects where the light would be consistent. If you're bracketing shots with a fast moving Amtrak train as you change the lens zoom and focus on subsequent shots, you are changing the amount of light entering the lens, and therefore not getting a true idea of what changing the F-stop would have really produced when comparing it to your first picture. The firmware on the camera also takes care of the F-stop changes for you. You dont have to mess with turning the F-stop ring on the lens, therefore it's all done quicker while you have a solid hold on the camera to avoid shifting the image in the field of view. This is particularly handy if you dabble in HDR imaging and don't always use a tripod. You can also set it to do larger than +/-1 F-stop adjustments and have no more lag time. Try taking a pic, manually dropping 3 stops, then going back 6 stops (to get to +3Fstop) and taking another pic. By that time, I've already acquired my second set of bracketed photos ;)
What has been mentioned repeatedly is the ability to tell just how good or bad your shot was immediately. No waiting for a roll to be developed only to find out the pic you thought was gonna win you the Pulitzer prize came out blurred and out of focus. That, and the "roll of film" for the digital age can hold upwards of thousands of photo's. Pretty convienent when on a trip, you're a 10 mile walk from your car, and realize you only had one spare roll of film for your camera. Digital is just superior in that aspect.
So, no, I won't ever go back to film, the advantages far out weigh the disadvantages, and unlike Kodak it seems, I like to stay current with technology :)
All the automation is near miraculous.The results far exceed in quality and consistency what a drop in cartridge did in an Instamatic 104.
Still, there are times when the mind foretells where the F stop, shutter speed and focus should be for an anticipated shot. For those who leaned on adjustable the cameras of 40 years ago, the dance of fingers on far spaced buttons while looking at arrows on the back screen can be maddening.
Our community is FREE to join. To participate you must either login or register for an account.