Wiring DCC-track power to main buss

Some people swear by suitcase connectors, and some people swear at them.

I've used them for years with no problems, because they're more convenient than soldering under the layout.

But from a a purely electro-mechanical standpoint, nothing beats a properly soldered and insulated connection.

Steve

I don't believe that the suitcase type of connector is reliable in the long run. I have been a technician/technologist for 50 years and soldering is the best way for me. I run the 22 gauge "feeder" wires down from the rail and connect the other end to the bus by stripping a 1/2 inch length of insulation from the bus wire. Then I wrap the feeder to it and solder. For servicing purposes, you may want to meke the connection with a screw type terminal strip. I call this a "Jones Barrier Strip".
BB

There are several methods that will work . Butt connectors, terminal strips, soldering the leads, all work. The considerations to make your choice are: Can you solder easily, or do you find it difficult, do want to be able to troubleshoot easily by simply releasing the lead, or having to un-solder or cut a lead, are you concerned about bullet-proof connections. All these considerations vary from modeler to modeler, everyone will have their "best method" that you should use based on years of experience. So , I might as well give you mine......I am using screw terminal connections to the Main Power Buss which will be #12 solid copper. I have no problem soldering, but I like ebing able to remove connections easily for any purpose that I might have, unsoldering wrapped wire connections is time consumming, so most people just cut the leads if they have to remove a wire, I don't want to do that.....
Hope this helps you,

Hey BB, I'm happy to see that we still have people who know what a "Jones" Barrier Strip is....I mentioned a Jones Strip last year on the forum and I received several replies from people who were old enough that they should have known/heard of this black beauty with screws.

I was reading that loose end bus wires should be capped with a terminal end cap. Does this make any sense to anyone?

I use these and have had excellent results:

Here's their website, the image is too small. The connections have been solid and these are easy to use. Wiring goes at light speed compared to the old methods. I looked everywhere and only found them available at Wal-Mart (unfortunately).

http://www.posi-lock.com/posiplug.html

WOW!!! These would save hours of soldering. I'm going to Walmart at noon.

I am using the black colored posi-taps. I tap into a 12g bus and use 20g feeds in each tap. You can tap a few wires into the posi-tap as well. For example, I use the Digitrax DS44 Stationery decoders to power my Tortoises. The decoder has a red and black power feeds and I just twist those right in with my track feeders and bam I'm done.

And yes, soldering feeders underneath a layout, especially taping into a power bus can be challenging if not back breaking. The posi-taps are clean, simple and reliable. And if it makes anyone feel better, they look professional!

Could make to Walmart at lunch, so I will try tonight after work. Worse case scenerio, I will order them from the manufacturer. Thanks again Mast.

Larry

No problem. The buggers are a bit expensive, something like $5 for 6 pcs! But the convenience will outweight the cost, trust me on that one...

I solder them. It's not much work at all, there's no question about whether it's a good, durable connection, works with any ga. wire (unlike most of the snap-on connectors) and certainly much less expense.

I have a chair with legs cut off and casters added - that eases my back.

I have one of those "insulation spreader" type strippers that creates an opening to bare wire in one squeeze.

I use a microtorch for heat, since there's no scenery/plastic ties, etc. to burn. No wire to drag around, and no "making good contact" issue for the iron tip.

So I open the bus wire insulation with the spreader, wrap the feeder wire around it a couple times, hit it with the torch for maybe 5 seconds, torch off, hit it with the solder, done.

Given all that, It's maybe 30 seconds to do a connection. I just sort of roll along under the table stopping every 3-5 feet. I drop all the feeders for an entire section before I start, so it's really "assembly line" at that point. Maybe another 30 seconds each to do a second run-through when everything's cool and wrap it with electrical tape (though lately I use the "liquid electrical tape" to seal these).

So let's see, in order for your process, which you claim is "much less expensive" you require the following:

1. One specially designed chair with castors
2. Insulation Spreader
3. Micro-Torch
4. Electrical Tape and/Or Liquid Electrical Tape
5. A second run when everything is cool

Given all that, I grab a one posi-tap and screw it on with the wires for 75 cents a pop and I am all done, period.

No chairs, no torches, spreaders, solder, gas for the torch, electrical tape or liquid tape.

Sorry, but no sale here on your process, I'll stick with the Posi-Taps.

I wonder if they are cheaper if bought in qty from the Mfgr?

Thanks guys for all the useful imformation on securing drop wires to the main buss.