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Repainting a Walthers Mainline Painted and Unlettered Passenger Car

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  • Member since
    December 2003
  • From: Good ol' USA
  • 9,642 posts
Posted by AntonioFP45 on Sunday, November 6, 2022 9:27 AM

Rich,

In case it is helpful, here is a thread i posted when I purchased a Mainline Budd some years back. On it I comment on how I removed the roof.

https://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/88/p/249188/3028855.aspx

 

"I like my Pullman Standards & Budds in Stainless Steel flavors, thank you!"

 


  • Member since
    September 2004
  • From: Dearborn Station
  • 24,281 posts
Posted by richhotrain on Sunday, November 6, 2022 9:14 AM

AntonioFP45

Rich, I just read your last post.

Use a good quality masking tape (Tamiya or 3M 233+ series tape)

The roofs would be a cake walk since they are removable.  Mask off the one-piece window (glazing sides) and paint the roofs separately.

If you are satisfied with the silver body, simply mask the off the lower sides, the section above the window row, and the ends.

Run long strips of masking tape on the insde walls to prevent overspray. Make sure the tape is not touching the sides of the window openings so your paint will coat them.

Clean the window section and apply your paint. I usually prefer to seal the paint with 1 to 2 thin coats of a quality clear.  

Great advice, thank you again.

Rich

Alton Junction

  • Member since
    September 2004
  • From: Dearborn Station
  • 24,281 posts
Posted by richhotrain on Sunday, November 6, 2022 9:10 AM

AntonioFP45

Hi Rich,

That is just my preference.I take the extra step because metalizers tend to make a surface stand out. BTW: After paint stripping a car, if the surface bare surface is gray and looks as clean and even as in the photo I posted above, imho there is no need for primer.  Paint can be applied directly on to it.  But if the surface is black, then I would apply a primer as black will affect a light color's appearance.  

But as option to keep things simple.  If the car shells are completely silver and the surfaces are smooth, you can paint directly on to the silver surface. The silver would act as your foundation. The silver that Walthers uses is not bright, so it's basically a neutral toned color that can be utilized as a primer under most dark and medium colors.

Wash the shell in warm water and non-moisturizing soap (original Dawn or Ivory Liquid work well).

Follow up with wiping the surface with a lint free cotton or paper towel dampened lightly with a window cleaner or 70% iso-alcohol. Check for any lint and you're ready to fire up the airbrush (or rattle can).

What will your road name and color scheme be 

This is very helpful information. I appreciate it very much.

My plan is to replicate the Monon paint scheme. I currently own a set of IHC heavyweight Monon cars, but I have always wanted a set of streamlined coaches. Rapidio produced a set of 5 coaches back in 2013, but I balked at the $85 price per car, much to my continuing regret. Now, they are nowhere to be found.

Monon always maintained an eclectic fleet of passenger cars including the use of WWII troop cars. Rapido made no attempt to match the prototype, choosing instead to borrow heavily from their Super Continental Line to produce a CC&F lightweight coach. So, I am going to use what is available - - the Walthers Mainline Small Windows coach.

In terms of color scheme, available photos show anywhere from shades of orange to red for the Monon passenger cars. I will have to decide what to do there.

Rich

Alton Junction

  • Member since
    December 2003
  • From: Good ol' USA
  • 9,642 posts
Posted by AntonioFP45 on Sunday, November 6, 2022 9:08 AM

Rich, I just read your last post.

Use a good quality masking tape (Tamiya or 3M 233+ series tape)

The roofs would be a cake walk since they are removable.  Mask off the one-piece window (glazing sides) and paint the roofs separately.

If you are satisfied with the silver body, simply mask off the lower sides, the section above the window row, and the ends.

Run long strips of masking tape on the insde walls to prevent overspray. Make sure the tape is not touching the sides of the window openings so your paint will coat them.

Clean the window section and apply your paint. I usually prefer to seal the paint with 1 to 2 thin coats of a quality clear. 

BTW: Not being pushy, but I respectfully suggest that you consider giving airbrushing a try. I was VERY intimidated by the thought of airbrushing.  Once I tried it.......I went "ga-ga!". I was amazed that with just a little practice on scrap, how much easier and more relaxing it was than using rattle cans. Nor more (clacka-clacka-clacka) shaking cans every 5 seconds.

If I can ever be of help if you decide to give it a go, message me any time. 

"I like my Pullman Standards & Budds in Stainless Steel flavors, thank you!"

 


  • Member since
    December 2003
  • From: Good ol' USA
  • 9,642 posts
Posted by AntonioFP45 on Sunday, November 6, 2022 8:56 AM

Hi Rich,

That is just my preference.I take the extra step because metalizers tend to make a surface stand out. BTW: After paint stripping a car, if the surface bare surface is gray and looks as clean and even as in the photo I posted above, imho there is no need for primer.  Paint can be applied directly on to it.  But if the surface is black, then I would apply a primer as black will affect a light color's appearance.  

But as option to keep things simple.  If the car shells are completely silver and the surfaces are smooth, you can paint directly on to the silver surface. The silver would act as your foundation. The silver that Walthers uses is not bright, so it's basically a neutral toned color that can be utilized as a primer under most dark and medium colors.

Wash the shell in warm water and non-moisturizing soap (original Dawn or Ivory Liquid work well).

Follow up with wiping the surface with a lint free cotton or paper towel dampened lightly with a window cleaner or 70% iso-alcohol. Check for any lint and you're ready to fire up the airbrush (or rattle can).

What will your road name and color scheme be?

"I like my Pullman Standards & Budds in Stainless Steel flavors, thank you!"

 


  • Member since
    September 2004
  • From: Dearborn Station
  • 24,281 posts
Posted by richhotrain on Sunday, November 6, 2022 8:47 AM

What about masking the areas to be painted, and how do you mask areas that have already been painted without damaging the finish? What is the best practice for masking material?

My plan is to paint the roof of each car with a dark color, and the window area a color in the orange to red spectrum. The rest of the car body would be somewhere in the gray to silver range.

Rich

Alton Junction

  • Member since
    September 2004
  • From: Dearborn Station
  • 24,281 posts
Posted by richhotrain on Sunday, November 6, 2022 8:43 AM

philo426

Yes a light gray primer is a good idea . 

OK, thanks, I kind of thought that but wanted to ask for confirmation.

Rich

Alton Junction

  • Member since
    September 2004
  • From: Dearborn Station
  • 24,281 posts
Posted by richhotrain on Sunday, November 6, 2022 8:41 AM

ndbprr

Well the simple answer is yes.  There are some things to consider however.  Generally todays cars have very good thin layers of paint that is probably water based and not solvent based. This means it hasn't built up excessively around details. generally it is best to remove it.  There are several stripping materials which I will leave to others to discuss as I haven't done any stripping in many years.  Are the cars glossy or dull?  If glossy you will want to roughen the surface to provide tooth for the paint to adhere to. A brown paper towel is adquate to do that.  Lastly are you considering brush paintng, rattle spray can or airbrushing the paint. I listed them from worst to first for quality of finish.  If this is all new and a first time for you practice on a car or two that are junk.  you can always strip and redo painting but practice will increase your odds of success the first time 

OK, another vote for stripping the factory paint. The factory paint job is more dull than it is glossy. These are Walthers Mainline cars, not the more expensive "silver plated" glossy cars (e.g., Santa Fe) that Walthers also produced.

I have never owned an airbrush, and I have zero experience airbrushing. So my plan would be to use the rattle spray can approach where I do have some experience. I would like to avoid brush painting. Is there such a thing as a high quality rattle can spray? In the past, I have had a few issues with paint splattering or running, so I clearly need to avoid that.

Rich

Alton Junction

  • Member since
    March 2005
  • 1,512 posts
Posted by philo426 on Sunday, November 6, 2022 8:39 AM

Yes a light gray primer is a good idea .

  • Member since
    September 2004
  • From: Dearborn Station
  • 24,281 posts
Posted by richhotrain on Sunday, November 6, 2022 8:31 AM

AntonioFP45

Hi Rich,

Good but broad question.

What paint scheme will you be applying to your cars? Are your mainline cars completely silver with just a road name? Or are mutliple colors involved? A car that is completely silver, with just road names can be repainted with a solid color without having to use primer once the lettering is removed.  However if, for example, you have an Amtrak car, and apply a light color over the shell, the red and blue colors will "bleed through" (be visible).

My preference is to completely paint strip passenger cars. To me, it's simply part of the "creativity feature" of this hobby.  If you'd like to take this route then a solution that has worked well for me on the Mainline Cars is the purple "Super Clean" that you can find at Walmart and a variety of businesses. Immerse your shell, allow to soak several hours, then scrub the paint off with a toothbrush.  Works nicely!  BTW: 91% Iso Alcohol (my usual go to solution) doesn't work as well on Walthers newer products.

The Walthers Mainline cars are all silver in color and are unlettered, so no roadnames, no logos.

So, your recommendation is to completely strip the paint, not just repaint over the factory paint. Would you prime before painting?

Rich

Alton Junction

  • Member since
    September 2002
  • 7,486 posts
Posted by ndbprr on Sunday, November 6, 2022 7:43 AM

Well the simple answer is yes.  There are some things to consider however.  Generally todays cars have very good thin layers of paint that is probably water based and not solvent based. This means it hasn't built up excessively around details. generally it is best to remove it.  There are several stripping materials which I will leave to others to discuss as I haven't done any stripping in many years.  Are the cars glossy or dull?  If glossy you will want to roughen the surface to provide tooth for the paint to adhere to. A brown paper towel is adquate to do that.  Lastly are you considering brush paintng, rattle spray can or airbrushing the paint. I listed them from worst to first for quality of finish.  If this is all new and a first time for you practice on a car or two that are junk.  you can always strip and redo painting but practice will increase your odds of success the first time

  • Member since
    December 2003
  • From: Good ol' USA
  • 9,642 posts
Posted by AntonioFP45 on Sunday, November 6, 2022 7:30 AM

Hi Rich,

Good but broad question.

What paint scheme will you be applying to your cars? Are your mainline cars completely silver with just a road name? Or are mutliple colors involved? A car that is completely silver, with just road names can be repainted with a solid color without having to use primer once the lettering is removed.  However if, for example, you have an Amtrak car, and apply a light color over the shell, the red and blue colors will "bleed through" (be visible).

My preference is to completely paint strip passenger cars. To me, it's simply part of the "creativity feature" of this hobby.  If you'd like to take this route then a solution that has worked well for me on the Mainline Cars is the purple "Super Clean" that you can find at Walmart and a variety of businesses. Immerse your shell, allow to soak several hours, then scrub the paint off with a toothbrush.  Works nicely!  BTW: 91% Iso Alcohol (my usual go to solution) doesn't work as well on Walthers newer products.

     

 

"I like my Pullman Standards & Budds in Stainless Steel flavors, thank you!"

 


  • Member since
    September 2004
  • From: Dearborn Station
  • 24,281 posts
Repainting a Walthers Mainline Painted and Unlettered Passenger Car
Posted by richhotrain on Sunday, November 6, 2022 5:03 AM

I am toying with the idea of painting and decaling a bunch of Walthers Mainline Painted and Unlettered Passenger Cars into a particular roadname.

Would I have to strip the current paint job or could I paint over it? I am looking for advice on painting and decaling these passenger cars.

Thanks in advance.

Rich

Alton Junction

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